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I own a T Bucket and it is a Total Performance. Their parts are all quality and there tech support is second to none. I would recommend them to anyone. If you shop around you can save some money on incidentals but for the most part their pricing is fine. Unless you are real good at welding and have all the tools to clamp square and align, I cant imagine why anyone would want to fabricate their own frame. The Total kit can be built by a good wrench in about 35-40 hours for all the mechanical stuff if you have air tools, electrical will depend on who's harness you get and then there is paint. As far as cost, if you keep it fairly plain and lay off a lot of the chrome, the kit will probably total out to about 10K. You already have your engine, that is one of the big ticket items usually. You will need to locate a th350 tranny also, they can usually be had fairly cheap. Other trannys can be used but the TH350 is the one it is designed for.
I have also helped 2 others build buckets, so if you have any questions, please ask. It will be the most fun car you have ever driven. As for the ones for sale with little mileage, they are also a very scary car to drive, 300 or more Hp in a 1500 lb car. Its about the same HP to LBS ratio as a motorcycle. As far as comfort, I am 6'1" and about 1 HR is my limit behind the wheel. The wind and noise get to you after a while. |
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What this conversation points out to me is at the end of the day it is either your time or your money..Most of us have more time than money and the social aspects and fun of being involved is a big part of the reward..
Now I did some searching and came up with this as an econobuild.. 29 body from Poli-form..this is a race weight body and will need to have the doors made to open but it is 1400 for that body..Once you have the shape then glassing in reinforcements and such is not all that bad a deal.. Go to speedway or tci and get a chassis for about 2500-3500 in cost and then start... Actually if a fellow wanted something real nice and driveable one of the speedway track t packages with a 4 banger would be good.. I know options options options but then Cboy and I are getting ours done just by being persistent..and determined.. Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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Total vs Sprint Vs Zipper
One More Time... Yup, lots of ways to skin a cat...but you can't do the second one until you do the first one.
I want to add.. this is ,by far, the best forum for this type of inter-action. So pleased everyone keeps their cool and respects the other guys opinion. Have a great day, Youngster. |
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Remaining calm during an exchange of different ideas and opinions is an indicator of self confidence, rationality and higher intelligence in the participants....
You bunch of fr@#(*&ing ratcherfratchersno no good #@$&&^^!!!.... J/K hahahahaha If Dilbert goes to inquire about a race body from either Poli Form or RodnRace, he should NOT say it will end up on the street...I know that Dick @ Poli-Form or Rodnrace will not sell a shell body to anyone like that. Do a search here on the site for RodnRace..there are a couple of threads about them here already. In order to make a race body, some of those companies glue the door skins on their street bodies, and leave out the bracing, inner panels, etc..so undoing that is a chore. Building a street body from a race body is fairly time consuming, and does require some extra learning and skills. None of it is hard stuff, (can't be...I learnt it ), but it can get weird if you don't have experience with the materials or automotive structure.I have glued many of those skins on 'glass bodies myself. Later, mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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T-bucket23 Powerrodsmike and myself all are held to a higher standard of conduct, and have close to 100 years of rodding experience combined between us. Dilbert ... How much upfront money are were talking about ?? You might be better off to save up and then buy what you want. It took me ten years to get my roadster on the road.
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"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. " |
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I have no direct experience here and therefore only offer an opinion. And, I might be wrong.
I understand Total Perf. uses their own spindles. I don't know if that's good or bad, but it may mean they cost more. I also understand Total is/was the supplier of cast Corvair pitman arms that have had failures. I don't know what's being supplied these days for a replacement. If my picture loads, I have most of my frame rails about ready to paste together and I find the pictures of T's posted here to be inspiring and a good reason to work harder on my T. As words of encouragement on your project, let me tell you what my flight instructor told me many years ago. Fly the big ones. |
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Maybe, while looking, you will run into a partially finished project?
or perhaps an older rod that needs a motor refresh and a little TLC? Might be a good opportunity, if you run into one. Deuce, great pics, I enjoyed the thread just for those. |
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Dugg,
Pretty cool project. You should start a project journal so we can watch it go together. I really like the frame rails. Did you make yourself? T-bucket23, The pitman arm was a chromed one obtained from Speedway, who sorced them from TP. Here is a post on how a brand new chrome corvair pitman arm simply broke apart: http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.c....asp?Id=107988 I also built a Total T Bucket. The buildup is in my journal. I tend to buck the trend that Deuce has described, 13,000 miles in three summers. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=1&reverse=1 |
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I will give you the credit you deserve ... You do drive yours ... saw you in Louisville, Kentucky driving it ... That has to be 800 plus miles 1 way ... in a T-bucket I like the air in my face, the wind in what little hair I have left and the overall freedom of a open car ... ( that you get in Deuce roadster ... or a ... T- bucket ) Owned mine 30 years ... but the T-bucket for me is just too small ... I love the performance of a T-bucket with the HP/weight ratio. They are very visually exciting ... and can be a LOT of fun. Just too small for a OLD, FAT guy
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"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. " |
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But, 800 miles in one day was bit much. I did 500 miles to the Columbus Goodguys last summer - much more relaxing. I will admit, I did put less miles on it last summer. I'm not sure what the future holds at this point, but an enclosed car is probably next. Hopefully the Mustang will be done this spring (it's hers, but may require extensive road testing before I can turn it over to her ) and then I can move on to the Model A sedan project. Not sure how the T will fit into these plans though, we'll see.
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Thanks for all the responses, everyone!
I only have a couple grand saved up right now, so without a loan, getting an entire prebuilt car probably won't happen. And I may want to just start building anyways, because by the time you customize some one else's existing car so it's truly yours, the difference in cost may not be as much of a factor.... One thing I did this weekend was join a local car club...so I'll keep my ears open for any potential project cars available... so far the ones that are for sale are completed vehicles.... I have a few months of saving to do before I have enough to get a good, chromed, complete frame kit... so I'll wait and see what happens.... My initial impressions concerning the club were good, and a lot of the members have built cars that are a lot more involved than the projects I have planned in my head... So if I go the bucket route, a good set of plans or instructions may not need to be the end all, be all factor in who's stuff I decide to go with..... BTW, Anyone purchase a frame kit for Speedway Motors?? I like their buggy springed, radius rod frame kit... Also was thinking of utilizing a I-beam front axle and either a 9 inch Ford or a Winters quick change rear end (a well built nine inch and the plain quick change both seem closer in price than I thought..close enough that I'd consider the quick change...).. The 400 Chevy motor I have dynoed on the PC desktop dyno at 440HP at 5500rpm, 480lb/ft torque at 4000rpm, and over 420lb/ft torque between 2000 and 5500rpm.... I figure at least a good nine inch would be better to handle this setup (even though it would cost more than the standard 8 inch or Chevy rear end...)...the extra strength sure wouldn't hurt... I assume that you would have to drill all the mounting holes in the Speedway chassis...where you can get Total or Spirit to drill those for you, correct??? I haven't drilled into metal before (I know, I know...I'm hopeless )... So if I would go the Speedway route, I probably would grab some spare tubing from someone and do some 'practice drills' first before I started putting holes in the frame ...... Anyone have good experiences with Speedway....Any bad ones??I would need to get some mounting tabs welded on for the quick change assembly (and probably a nine inch if I went that route too), but I could probably find someone qualified to do that for me.... I've heard some good things about these guys concerning a 23 body... http://knscustoms.com/ I'm not sure if their extended body would fit the Speedway chassis...??? I really like CCR's stuff, but they never responded to my email asking them questions, and I've heard their customer service isn't the best in the world....Anyone have good / bad experiences with them??? I'm 85% sure at this point that a T bucket will be the route I go...now just trying to decide where to get parts or a "well rounded package"......
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Dilbert,
Are you looking to build a car or drive it? How long do you plan on this taking? 1 yr? 2? 5 yrs? If I was you, with the limited fabrication experiance, I would wait till I could get a stage III kit from one of the manufacturers. Even Total has a layway plan (not sure if thats a good finacial idea though) There should be no welding required and everything should bolt on with minimal holes to drill. Don't worry though, even with a complete "kit" there are still lots of things to customize and make your own. If you get a kit and a good running donor car, you can harvest the engine, transmission, driveshaft, rearend, wiring (maybe), seat parts (foam/belts) and other misc parts. That way, you can clean up, paint and install the motor, trans and rear end and have a roller for not a whole lot of money. Sprit has a pretty complete kit w/ front and rear suspension and body for $3,880. Thats a pretty good deal. Quote:
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