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Old 07-14-2006, 11:47 AM
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tourque and gasket question

Hi there this isn't a question specificly for a "hot rod". its for my folks 92 Subaru wagon... it would overheat if you drove over 35-40 mph... well after a hose popped and i replaced it we figured we'ld check the thermostat which was upside down so i figured id replace it in case it was damaged being in back wards for a good 6 to 8 good over heatings anyway i was wondering how tight i'll need to tightening the t-stat cover back down or if hand tight will do and if i should get another plasticy like gasket(what it had) or cork stuff? for the gasket?

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Last edited by NamelessJoe; 07-14-2006 at 11:48 AM. Reason: i het submit befor finisheing the title
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:28 PM
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My Opinion

I Think U R Looking In The Wrong Place. I Would Check For A Blown Headgasket..the Easiet Was Is To Go Someplace That Has An Emmission Machine..with Car Warmed Up Hold Sniffer Over Radiator Neck..if U Get anyreadings At All Hg Is Gone..when Tightening And That Does Not Have Torque Specs, Use Your Head...good Luck
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessJoe
Hi there this isn't a question specificly for a "hot rod". its for my folks 92 Subaru wagon... it would overheat if you drove over 35-40 mph... well after a hose popped and i replaced it we figured we'ld check the thermostat which was upside down so i figured id replace it in case it was damaged being in back wards for a good 6 to 8 good over heatings anyway i was wondering how tight i'll need to tightening the t-stat cover back down or if hand tight will do and if i should get another plasticy like gasket(what it had) or cork stuff? for the gasket?
Although you're not really in the right place for this question (since when does Subaru make a hot rod related vehicle?? ) the t-stat "cover" or housing just needs to be tightened down nice and snug, just wherever you feel comfortable it is tight enough. If that car overheated nearly 8 times, why did you keep driving it instead of bringing it in to someone or diagnose it yourself? Hopefully you didn't damage anything when you overheated multiple times, you might've gotten lucky if you pulled off the road immediately if your temp readings went way above normal. Remember, the pointed side of the t-stat (kind of looks like a tent) always faces up. Just use another gasket of the same material, if it didn't leak before, it shouldn't leak now.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:40 PM
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Thanks acouple of people i've talked to have suggested the HG but the t-stat is a spring loaded one were the presure is releaved at temp and it pushes open (as far as we can tell, my dad an i) with it backword the coolent probably kept it closed we hope so... also none of the fluids re leeking if its ran around town. and the oil is staying clean.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classix_Lover
Although you're not really in the right place for this question (since when does Subaru make a hot rod related vehicle?? ) the t-stat "cover" or housing just needs to be tightened down nice and snug, just wherever you feel comfortable it is tight enough. If that car overheated nearly 8 times, why did you keep driving it instead of bringing it in to someone or diagnose it yourself? Hopefully you didn't damage anything when you overheated multiple times, you might've gotten lucky if you pulled off the road immediately if your temp readings went way above normal. Remember, the pointed side of the t-stat (kind of looks like a tent) always faces up. Just use another gasket of the same material, if it didn't leak before, it shouldn't leak now.
i figured scince i read here you guys would have some ideas and subaru makes a flat 6 which i think if converted to carbs would look cool in an old open engain coup( but thats a different thred)

oh so it wesnt in upside down and my mom were it was parked lives about 20 miles from my house and she took it to a mechanic about ten miles away form her house to replace the valve covers (its been overheeting for a while) then back due to oil sending unit and pump dieing then brought it to my house i added raiderater sealer .. the hose poped i replaced the hoses test drove it and it overheated agian head gaskets looking perty possable but i hope not

Last edited by NamelessJoe; 07-14-2006 at 12:47 PM. Reason: horid spelling to less horid spelling
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessJoe
i figured scince i read here you guys would have some ideas and subaru makes a flat 6 which i think if converted to carbs would look cool in an old open engain coup( but thats a different thred)

oh so it wesnt in upside down and my mom were it was parked lives about 20 miles from my house and she took it to a mechanic about ten miles away form her house to replace the valve covers (its been overheeting for a while) then back due to oil sending unit and pump dieing then brought it to my house i added raiderater sealer .. the hose poped i replaced the hoses test drove it and it overheated agian head gaskets looking perty possable but i hope not
Unless it's a reverse flow pump, then the point or the "tent" part of the t-stat always faces up or towards the inlet hose of the radiator. Now I'm getting confused at what's going on. Your overheating correct? So why replace the valve covers and hoses?? Remember not to just throw your money at the problem replacing random parts that aren't related to it overheating.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classix_Lover
Unless it's a reverse flow pump, then the point or the "tent" part of the t-stat always faces up or towards the inlet hose of the radiator. Now I'm getting confused at what's going on. Your overheating correct? So why replace the valve covers and hoses?? Remember not to just throw your money at the problem replacing random parts that aren't related to it overheating.
the valve covers were leaking oil or somthin (not too sure) and the raider hose blew a good 5 in rip in it the other hose felt kinda week so i took it off and it was starting to rot so i replaced both sides of the raide ator the thermostart is on the side that the water comes out of the engin block i belive, theres a little arrow out on the t-stat cover.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessJoe
the valve covers were leaking oil or somthin (not too sure) and the raider hose blew a good 5 in rip in it the other hose felt kinda week so i took it off and it was starting to rot so i replaced both sides of the raide ator the thermostart is on the side that the water comes out of the engin block i belive, theres a little arrow out on the t-stat cover.
My mistake for jumping to conclusions about you throwing money at parts. It does sound like you have the t-stat in the correct position though and no milkshake oil so that's good but pics would be good of it since I can't really picture the engine bay. Are your e-fans coming on at the right temperatures if even at all? You can verify this by just letting it idle with the hood open and watching to see if they come on. The car only overheats when it's moving and not at idle?
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:25 PM
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thanks for the input

it has a mech fan and eletric the eletric fan comes on when its overheating thats tho only time ive looked and it only overheats when i bring it over 35 to 40 miles per hr it seams the cooling system can handle it untill the engian maintains more then 3000rpms consistently which is why when i pulled the thurmastat off i thought it was upside down the spring was tword the engian so ithought the pressure could keep it closed. i think ill try once i get it back together ill try to drive around town without going fast to see if i loose any coolant any way just in case its a slow leak im not noticing... oh and as for pics ill have to get some when i get off work would cell pics be ok or yourld you like some higher res ones?
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:29 PM
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check to see if the water pump is circulating the antifreeze.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:32 PM
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Bah lol that's the second time I've mixed up e-fans with mechanical operated one's. Damn my small tolerance for remembering things You don't have to post the pics since it does sound like you indeed have it in correctly. This sounds more like an airflow problem. I'm not sure if subarus ever had an air-dam in the front to help direct flow through the radiator like the vettes did. I'll wait for someone else to confirm if they did and if they did and you don't have one anymore, you'd be surprised as to how something as little as that will make a difference to cooling.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:32 PM
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how would i check that? do i just dump hose water in the raideator while its running and disconnect the other side so it spews out? the engain or could a shop(mechanic) test to make sure it work?
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Classix_Lover
Bah lol that's the second time I've mixed up e-fans with mechanical operated one's. Damn my small tolerance for remembering things You don't have to post the pics since it does sound like you indeed have it in correctly. This sounds more like an airflow problem. I'm not sure if subarus ever had an air-dam in the front to help direct flow through the radiator like the vettes did. I'll wait for someone else to confirm if they did and if they did and you don't have one anymore, you'd be surprised as to how something as little as that will make a difference to cooling.
on thoughts of air flow, there are leaves n stuff behinD the hood, infRont of the windsheild could that restrict airflow enough to caus an issue?
and i dont know if it had an air damn eather

Last edited by NamelessJoe; 07-14-2006 at 01:39 PM. Reason: man am i the bad typeinst
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:04 PM
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ok off to lunch ill pick up some of the same gasket as befor from checkers and ill snap a few pics' anyway just for a better idea
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Old 07-14-2006, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessJoe
ok off to lunch ill pick up some of the same gasket as befor from checkers and ill snap a few pics' anyway just for a better idea
ok now im talking to my self lol
but here Are some pics

the close up one is were the thermostat goes and the other one is the engine .... for air flow agian the lower rad support (ithink) is angled down to look like a realy mild air damn..... when i put it back to gether i think ill try s mild raideator flush drain it our and re fill a few ties with the hose to see if i cant flush somthing out unless theres a strong oppision to it then later my dad was wanting to get it presure checked and flushed profesionally to make sure theres no blockeges in a few days ill try to keep the interested of you updated
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