[Gremlin]

Anybody have any tips to make this conversion less painful?? I have the complete donor 89. I'm considering using the iroc's 305 since it's only got 70,000 on it and I'm tired of paying 3.00+ for gas.

[docvette]

Doc here,

I deleted your doubled post...

As to your problem..

Digital Camera!! Shoot everything as it is in the Iroc...and burn it to disk...

Then make a wire chart as you "undo the harness and computer...like:

Wire*****Connector pin****destination*******notes********Location
================================================== =======
Red..............AA..................Fuse link...........Computer power.....interior
Wht/Yel........13..................TPS sender........Throttle position.....Engine Bay
Black............26..................Power Ground.....Computer Gnd.........interior

And so on...As you REMOVE the harness..

Then draw one from the Vette's diagram and chose the best places to Install the new harness..and follow that..since you don't have computer already, this should be pretty basic..

Avoid using Butt splices..your looking for trouble in future that way..Ring terminals ,or direct solder and shrink tubing is the way to go..Butt splices corrode (ESPECIALLY in a Vette) and fall apart just sitting!

To install a ring terminal to last forever, strip the wire 1/8 longer than the tunnel, using the solder iron
(suggest a Weller Controlled output work station, if you don't have that, use a 40 watt pencil, but be careful of overheat)..
Tin the wire , then lightly tin the terminal. Crimp the wire properly in the ring and heat and FLOW solder into the terminal until smooth ...then cut and slide a piece of shrink tubing over the wire and terminal and shrink to provide insulation AND strain relief..This will last FOREVER and won't provide any future problems..

Make all connections wherever possible at the source or pin..Don't use those hookey 3 wire butts..(like they use for trailer lights..they don't work there,and won't last here! )

Corvette is Notorious for Corrosion in wire harness and clusters (because there is virtually no where else for the condensation to oxidize in a hight heat cabin) Avoid dissimilar metals!

If you must use aluminum (car interior grounds for example) get some aluminum wire bonding paste and coat the connection to avoid electrolysis..

Make a third Chart as the computer and harness goes into the car as to where it ties into the system...Then when its all finished, Compile all 3 and make a final diagram for your system and draw a schematic for it (this will be your schematic for future troubleshoot..don't forget to do it..if you can't draw, you can download (30 day free trials cad programs for this..)

The rest is all common sense stuff...read and follow a straight line..and good workman~like~ship practices...anti chafe, adel clamps, rigid mounting, star washers, and the like..

Good Luck..

Doc

[Kurt]

Where do I get this cad program. We do a fair amount of electrical upgrades and my drawn diagrams are illegible to anyone but myself. I have trouble drawing stick figures.

[Kurt]

Painless makes a conversion harness as well. We used one in an elcamino, worked pretty nice. Great conversion, but your in for a TON of work. Give yourself more than a weekend for this engine swap. Be sure to get the long harness, so you have more options for the computer placement. I'm not familiar with the underdash of a vette, but I'm guessing not much room for a computer.

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Kurt

Where do I get this cad program. We do a fair amount of electrical upgrades and my drawn diagrams are illegible to anyone but myself. I have trouble drawing stick figures.

Doc here,

Just type in on a google, cad programs electrical schematic, It should give you about half a million hits..

Search through them , look for a Fully functional trial software download..and if possible one with a "Screen Shot" (so you can see if you can work with it) Get as simple as you can find..(some of those are really hard to operate!)..Download , unpack, install and play with it until you feel comfortable with it...The software usually lasts about 30 days..then it shuts down.

By far the best , easy and quick ones I have used were all drop and drag style with a component library on the left side of the screen and a tool bar that supports "Wires", junctions", Grounds Power Buss" ground Buss" and Text...

Make sure you can print out what you draw too..some cad formats (on free trials) omit that function..

OR you Could buy the software..one draw back there, is a PRO CAD program is Massive..and Costly...(like in the 15 to 20 grand range) ..you can get "Home versions" for less than $100 bucks though at your local software place..may not do as much, but will get the job done...

Doc