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Old 11-25-2005, 04:45 PM
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traction 67 camaro

can anybody give me any tips on how to get my 67 camaro to hook up.it has a 10 bolt with 3.73 posi rear, single spring , and traction bars. it does not wheel hope. it just spins. it has 275/60r15 tires. it has a hi winding 377 with about 500 hp and a manual 4 speed. thanks for any help

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Old 11-25-2005, 06:39 PM
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my 67 camaro does the same thing and its got around 325HP. Good Luck
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:04 AM
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traction problem

what brand of tire are you using? different brands have different types of rubber. also a good set of caltrac bars should do wonders for you.
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:25 PM
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???

what is a caltrac bar?? and were can i get them???
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:42 PM
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If you do get it to hook, that 10 bolt is history..............
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Old 11-26-2005, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapersinger
can anybody give me any tips on how to get my 67 camaro to hook up.it has a 10 bolt with 3.73 posi rear, single spring , and traction bars. it does not wheel hope. it just spins. it has 275/60r15 tires. it has a hi winding 377 with about 500 hp and a manual 4 speed. thanks for any help
Camaros are difficult to get juuuuust right.....

If your tires suck, you will have no wheel hop because you have no traction shocking the tire sidewall.

Where's it spinning? Off the line? 10 feet out? 40 feet out? shifting gears?
Does the rear end squat? Does the front end lift? and when? Does the car drift sideways when spinning? Does it launch straight? Does the body torque-roll when launching?
Is the suspension unloading, or loading too fast?
What transmission, clutch, torque converter, spool or posi, etc.????

1) tires are the most obvious.. but not the cure-all
2) mal-adjusted slapper bars (there are cars running 10s quarter with slapper bars) bushing clearance and/or overall length= bushing placement, type of bushing material
3) spring eye and shackle bushings
4) incorrect shocks on rear
5) incorrect shocks on front
6) too stiff front springs
7) sway bar binding
8) pinion angle.. maybe... used for fine tuning after you get it hooking.

More information needed.

"Too many people worry about horsepower and not enough about getting down the track" Evan J. Smith MM&FF

"Plunk your magic twanger Froggy!"

check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/georges race track
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
If you do get it to hook, that 10 bolt is history..............

I can vouch for that .

Vince
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Old 11-26-2005, 07:13 PM
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wow alot of info. i will take the car out tommorow and run it and answer all your questions to maybe get this thing running faster. what kind of street tire do you recomend and what tire pressure? maybe alot of my problem is that my tires "suck", they are new but maybe not the best compound.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
Camaros are difficult to get juuuuust right.....

If your tires suck, you will have no wheel hop because you have no traction shocking the tire sidewall.

Where's it spinning? Off the line? 10 feet out? 40 feet out? shifting gears?
Does the rear end squat? Does the front end lift? and when? Does the car drift sideways when spinning? Does it launch straight? Does the body torque-roll when launching?
Is the suspension unloading, or loading too fast?
What transmission, clutch, torque converter, spool or posi, etc.????

1) tires are the most obvious.. but not the cure-all
2) mal-adjusted slapper bars (there are cars running 10s quarter with slapper bars) bushing clearance and/or overall length= bushing placement, type of bushing material
3) spring eye and shackle bushings
4) incorrect shocks on rear
5) incorrect shocks on front
6) too stiff front springs
7) sway bar binding
8) pinion angle.. maybe... used for fine tuning after you get it hooking.

More information needed.

"Too many people worry about horsepower and not enough about getting down the track" Evan J. Smith MM&FF

"Plunk your magic twanger Froggy!"

check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/georges race track
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapersinger
wow alot of info. i will take the car out tommorow and run it and answer all your questions to maybe get this thing running faster. what kind of street tire do you recomend and what tire pressure? maybe alot of my problem is that my tires "suck", they are new but maybe not the best compound.



The fact is that making any car launch is more than finding a sticky set of tires.

You might compare this to the guy who asks, "How do I make my 350 make 500 hp?" and somebody says, "Put on a Holley carbretor."
That might be a start, but it is not the magic bullet.

You need to know what you have/what your problems are. There are multiple stages to the solution. Most guys who drag race every week year after year don't have a clue what problems they have. Simply because they have watched people who don't know what they are doing either.

Tires?? Super sticky humongous-wide and get them 33 inches tall so that will kill your gear ratio enough that your wheel spin problem will disappear...... of course, so will your "power" and ET. But it will cure the wheel spin. Understand what I mean? NO magic bullet.

check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/ georges drag strip
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:03 PM
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My 1st car was a 67

a pair of $30.00 traction bars made it seem like it had posi!!! Cal tracs are better but if you dont want to afford them, throw on some lakewoods. If you got the mono leaf springs you might consider multi leaf types or fiberglass spings!
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:12 PM
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?

how would a multi leaf spring benifit me over a mono spring? it also has air shocks, what psi should i run them at??
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapersinger
how would a multi leaf spring benifit me over a mono spring? it also has air shocks, what psi should i run them at??

You said you had traction bars. What type? Do you mean slapper bars with the rubber bumper (bushing)?

KISS
Leaf springs are in compression when accelerating/ pushing the car ahead. This causes them to warp in conjunction with the axle torque twist. Slapper bars push up on the spring eye loading the rear axle sort of like ladder bars.

Cal-Tracs, Traction masters, etc. essentially add a bar below the spring that pushes forward either on the frame or the spring eye bolt, and the axle twist pulls the leaf spring rearward, placing it under tension. Sort of a cheapo 4 bar/ lift bar combination.

Multi leaf springs stiffen the forward part, especially when clamped, and reduce spring wrap, and tire hop, allowing the spring to work in compression with less flex.
Mopar used "super stock" springs in the 60s-70s which were super stiff leaf springs (the front half) and flexible rear halfs. The semi rigid front parts acted like semi flexible ladder bars lifting the body and planting the tires, and the rear halfs acted as the spring for suspension.

Stiff rear shocks are necessary to prevent the body from lifting too rapidly and unloading the tires, and from decending too rapidly as torque demimishes allowing the tires to unload again. Air shocks are pretty stiff 50/50 shocks that seem to work well sometimes.... Use just enough air to keep the air bag from ruining..no body lift.... 15 psi. By installing the air shocks with separate fill valves, the right rear shock can be aired to maybe 35-40 to preload the axle for traction and level launch.... works.

So how would multi's help...... not much probably. There is better places to spend your money.

This rear unloading/loading needs to be co-ordinated with the front lift rate and height.

Car Craft Dec. 2005 has a decent article on traction tuning. It has some really good elimentary explanations and pictures. I recommend it. Pay close attention to his explanation of loading and unloading.

Last edited by xntrik; 11-27-2005 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 11-30-2005, 07:28 PM
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nissan

Quote:
Originally Posted by lapersinger
can anybody give me any tips on how to get my 67 camaro to hook up.it has a 10 bolt with 3.73 posi rear, single spring , and traction bars. it does not wheel hope. it just spins. it has 275/60r15 tires. it has a hi winding 377 with about 500 hp and a manual 4 speed. thanks for any help

Please use the PM system to offer parts to members

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Old 11-30-2005, 08:44 PM
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That 10 bolt will hold up to more than people give them credit for. I know of an 8.2" that is in the 10's and gets beat on regularly. I think that is the extreme limit for an 8.2" Now an 8.5" 10 bolt can handle quite a bit more. Anyway, he is in no danger of breaking anything if he can't get the car to hook.

You have gotten some good advice (I didn't read every detail). By nature the Camaro is a nose heavy car, so getting them to hook takes a little know how. First off there is more to getting one to hook than the rear suspension. You will need to get several things in place to really get it to hook. Does the car have sub frame connectors? If not you will never get it to hook until you install them. As you already know the Camaro is a unibody car (meaning no real frame), without connectors you are just going to twist the chassis and un-load the tires anyway. Assuming you already have frame connectors, the next step would be a decent set of tires, standard street radials are NEVER EVER going to hook on any car with decent power, I don't care what you do to the suspension or what traction bars you have. Someone mentioned Caltrac bars, these are excellent traction bars, but could be overkill for what you are trying to do. The next step after decent tires is decent shocks (adjustable) front and rear. The front end has to rise in order to tranfer weight to the rear of the car and keep the tires planted. Get rid of the air shocks. If you are more of a low budget guy, then Rancho adjustable shocks on the rear will work fine and a set of drag shocks on the front. If you want to spend a little more you can go with 12-way adjustable shocks all the way around. If your car has an honest 500HP you will need a roll bar/cage, once the car hooks it should be running in the high 10's/low 11's. The suspension is a system just like an engine if the parts don't work together then it won't work well (read: tire spin). It all starts with the tires, if you can't get traction from the start, you will never transfer weight. If you have good tires and no traction bars then you will unload the tires when they try to hook (the rear end will try to wrap), I hope this all makes sense to you. If not ask questions, that's the only way to learn. Caltracs are made by Calvert Racing just in case you want to look into them. There is no reason you can't go deep into the 11's with only slapper bars.

Royce
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:21 AM
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Have you tried stting your car up in a car wash

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroman7d
That 10 bolt will hold up to more than people give them credit for. I know of an 8.2" that is in the 10's and gets beat on regularly. I think that is the extreme limit for an 8.2" Now an 8.5" 10 bolt can handle quite a bit more. Anyway, he is in no danger of breaking anything if he can't get the car to hook.

You have gotten some good advice (I didn't read every detail). By nature the Camaro is a nose heavy car, so getting them to hook takes a little know how. First off there is more to getting one to hook than the rear suspension. You will need to get several things in place to really get it to hook. Does the car have sub frame connectors? If not you will never get it to hook until you install them. As you already know the Camaro is a unibody car (meaning no real frame), without connectors you are just going to twist the chassis and un-load the tires anyway. Assuming you already have frame connectors, the next step would be a decent set of tires, standard street radials are NEVER EVER going to hook on any car with decent power, I don't care what you do to the suspension or what traction bars you have. Someone mentioned Caltrac bars, these are excellent traction bars, but could be overkill for what you are trying to do. The next step after decent tires is decent shocks (adjustable) front and rear. The front end has to rise in order to tranfer weight to the rear of the car and keep the tires planted. Get rid of the air shocks. If you are more of a low budget guy, then Rancho adjustable shocks on the rear will work fine and a set of drag shocks on the front. If you want to spend a little more you can go with 12-way adjustable shocks all the way around. If your car has an honest 500HP you will need a roll bar/cage, once the car hooks it should be running in the high 10's/low 11's. The suspension is a system just like an engine if the parts don't work together then it won't work well (read: tire spin). It all starts with the tires, if you can't get traction from the start, you will never transfer weight. If you have good tires and no traction bars then you will unload the tires when they try to hook (the rear end will try to wrap), I hope this all makes sense to you. If not ask questions, that's the only way to learn. Caltracs are made by Calvert Racing just in case you want to look into them. There is no reason you can't go deep into the 11's with only slapper bars.

GOOD ADVICE ABOVE
My 377 runs mid 9.50,s with a lot of nitrous. its in a 67 nova SS and my buddys 406 runs 9.50 in 69 camaro his combo.6 cyl leaf springs. 90/10 frt. shocks, slapper bars adjusted to contact with rear wheels off the ground. i asked him last night why and he said this is the way heloads these springs and the car works. sometimes he inserts spring spacers in front coils to lift front end.But you are never gonna hook up 500 H.P. on street tires with no posi. we bielieve the 500.hp as we got that and some.you need at least a 8.5 10 inch with posi and 4.11 gears with BFG drag radials and a DRAG STRIP. Running on the street is for rice rockets you got too much H.P. and torque for the street.JUST SHOW THEM A TIME SLIP. ASK ANY RODDER WITH A BEAST NO SHUCH THING AS TOO MUCH ANYTHING.
Royce
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