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Old 11-26-2009, 04:33 PM
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traction bars

Will traction bars help or hinder my 1980 Z28 in handling or breaking,or do they only improve off the line performance, my car is set up for handling ,urethane front to back body mounts sway bars front and back brakes shocks frame is connected,leaf springs rebuilt with stronger perches and metal,A arms etc.
Traction is my main problem but that is a decision I made when deciding on the style of driving I was after,with BFG COMP T/As she has run a 13.28 @ 103 mph,but with tires a blazing the first 75 feet with a lot of clutch feathering.Would a drag radial help my launch yet keep the handling such as a bfg drag radial,any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 11-27-2009, 03:06 AM
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No traction

Anyone please guys I dony want to make any mistakes based on a lack of knowledge.
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:49 AM
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Traction bar's do help if you get the right one's for your application.
Lakewood makes a slapper bar (short bar's about 2 ft long) that bolt's up in place of the lower shock plate under the leaf springs. They have a rubber snubber that makes contact with the leaves under power. If you get this kind
you need to get the full kit that includes the "J" rods that connect to the bar's over the axle. They will make it possible to "tune" the bar's as to when the snubber makes contact with the leaves to help with a straight line take off. These bar's are more for street/strip/ saturday night specials, and are used mainly for controlling "axle wrap" and will add life to your U-joints.
Drawbacks are they don't help with weight transfer very much. After the initial contact with the leaves you can still loose traction 3 ft. off the line, and will cause the rear end to "jump" up raising the hight of the rear end of the car under heavy load. To make the best use of them, you need to remove the front sway bar and get some really LOOSE front shocks like 90/10's that will transfer the car's weight to the rear off the line.
The other bar's are ladder bar's that connect to the axle, are much longer, and attach to the frame. Some ladder bar's bolt in and some are welded.
The longer ladders will transfer more of the car's weight from the front end to the rear for more added traction than the slapper bar's. Hope this helps,
It's just a brief description, and I'm sure you'll get more info on here.
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:42 AM
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Traction Bars

Thanks for info brother now at least I'm starting to understand the concept,much obliged.
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:49 AM
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I think in this situation i would go with cal-tracs as they are somewhat like a slapper bar but the fwd end is retained in a link//Alternatively look into what we do on the circle track/road race cars..Nascar uses the truck arms but that may be entirely too much fabrication to do one your car..

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Old 11-27-2009, 01:36 PM
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My first choice would be the Cal-Tracs, followed by the Competition Engineering Slide-a-Link, then the slapper-type bar from Competition Engineering. I wouldn't use Lakewood, although they look just like the same bar from Competition Engineering they are for some reason about 4" too short, the rubber snubber on the end will contact the spring about 4" behind the spring eye and bend the spring with repeated use, they are trying to put the power into the spring leaf and not the chassis at the spring mount eye.. The snubber should contact directly under the spring eye with this type bar and the Competition Engineering set does.

The Cal-Tracs and the Slide-a-Link can be tuned by preloading the adjusting bar. They can be adjusted for street use, then adjusted tighter in just a few minutes when you get to the track, then adjusted back to your street setting when you leave.
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Old 11-27-2009, 03:46 PM
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traction bars

Istarted looking into them and the lakewoods bars do look identical yo the Competition engineering ones but,the lakewoods dont have the J bolt included or in their design,such as the comps do,fromthe looks of it the Comp design also bolts over the axle tube to prevent the diff twisting,where as the lakewood bars only put lifting pressure on the spring pad,and better yet the Comp slide a links bolt into the front eye socket attaching it to the suspension as well as rapping over the axle tube.and after visiting tha Caltrac web site and seeing what they do to F body Camaros ,I will be going with the cal tracs ,I dont mind spending the money once ,specially when the proof is in the pudding.

Thanks guys once again you have steered me in the right direction.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sapsz28
...and after visiting tha Caltrac web site and seeing what they do to F body Camaros ,I will be going with the cal tracs ,I dont mind spending the money once ,specially when the proof is in the pudding...
You won't be sorry, they're great pieces! Have them on both my S-10 and Maverick...

Russ
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:51 PM
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I've just bought a set of Competition engineering ladder bars. What are the pros and cons to Ladder Bars vs the Cal-Tracs?

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backwoods
I've just bought a set of Competition engineering ladder bars. What are the pros and cons to Ladder Bars vs the Cal-Tracs?

Thanks
Ladder bars will require floor pan modifications to fit them under the car and an added crossmember for the front rod end to mount to. They will also require a spring floater if used with leaf springs, or a switch to coil-over shocks, which will also require another crossmember to mount them to. They will also require a side-to-side axle locating device like a panhard bar, wishbone, or track locater if used with coil-overs. Ladder bars also tend to bind up the suspension during body roll, like when entering or leaving a driveway entrance or parking lot.

The Cal-Tracs are a complete bolt-on system requiring no major modifications to the suspension or the car body, and will provide the same level of traction. Competition Engineering sells a similar set-up called the Slide-a-Link.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:40 PM
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I am using d.e. slide a link I love them heard caltracs are better but that was after I already bought the slidealinks 90-10's up front 275/60 drag radials, I can punch it with no spin on the street. But the drag radials do wear out faster. I wish I knew about taking out the sway bar mine ripped out of the chasis from so much lift in the front, and the 90-10's tend to keep the front up quite a while.
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