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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2007, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Good point. But I can't see the picture.
HIS ... Photo Server must be down ...

OK ... let's try this ...
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2007, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
OK ... let's try this ...
Yah, that works.

Unfortunately, my trailer doesn't have the nicely located clips for the tie does anywhere along the back edge. So I'll have to weld something on there to keep the straps from slipping sideways. I'll also need to locate different location points on the car as well.

I suppose the other option is to screw a couple stops to the deck at the outside edge of the rear tires.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2007, 07:30 AM
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Dewey, I have almost the exact same trailer as you, I bought some of those recessed "D" ring tie downs and installed them in the deck, making sure that I positioned them so that 2 of the mounting bolts went through the steel substructure under the wooden bed.

I also added a tie down rail alongside, I welded a length of 3/4 rebar across the stake pockets, just below the tops. ( I didn't want anything higher than the deck of the trailer...trip hazard you know)

The rebar works good because it has ridges to keep some traction on strap hooks and rope.

I have a 3500 pound winch permenantly mounted to the front, I added a battery box on the tongue to hang a battery from to run the winch when I need it. ( I'm too lazy to run a proper wire to hook to my tow vehicle, and it makes the trailer self contained inasfar as the winch is concerned.)

I bring my block pulley when ever I go to pick up a car, just in case I ever need to double the pulling power of the winch. I think I needed it once. That was to drag my 37 out of the field where it had sat for 13 years.

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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2007, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
HIS ... Photo Server must be down ...

OK ... let's try this ...
Please take no offense...those are pretty weak looking tie down straps - I could see why you'd have a problem with the load shifting as it would be hard to get enough leverage on the ratchets to really crank it down.

I don't use anything smaller than a strap like this - I've never had a problem (I also have chain and binders if I ever feel the strapping isn't good enough)



I wrap these around the rear axle and crank it down and I can see the tires start to compress - I don't think it would ever go anywhere - unless you got a flat - which would be a problem whether you crossed the straps or not.
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:04 AM
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I got the same tiedowns and they work good. I'd have to go look at the rating but it is pretty high since I use them with the truck too. My front one is my recovery strap and it's 30k working strength so wrapping around the front crossmember and hooked to the corners the car isn't going anywhere.

Here is a neat little tip for working on the trailer...like adjusting the brakes or monkeying with the wiring etc. Unloaded trailer. Lower the jack way down, if you can get a 4x4 under it do so, then put 2 jack stands (appropriate load rating) under the rear corners of the trailer then crank the jack back up to about as high as it will go. Now put 2 more jack stands under the front corners and lower the jack so most of the weight is on the jack stands. The wheels should be off the ground and you can crawl underneath to do your work. I have a hard rubber mat just under 4ft wide and 6 ft long that I use so I can use a creeper.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2007, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
Please take no offense...those are pretty weak looking tie down straps - I could see why you'd have a problem with the load shifting as it would be hard to get enough leverage on the ratchets to really crank it down.
I agree ... that is why I posted this with the photo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
Disclaimer ...

I did not take the photo ...and have nothing to do with it ...
I STOLE the photo ... because it shows the correct way to tie a car down IMHO .
I got the photo off another site ... where the new owner was expressing his joy about the manufacturer delivering his 32 3W coupe project. I have the wide tie downs also.

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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2007, 06:12 AM
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You guys can get those wide straps at a truck stop pretty inexpensively too.
A well equipped travel center will have both the ratcheting and pull to tighten straps.
Be careful you don't get the straps designed for the slots in the semi trailers, those kind clip on and have no hooks.

Bryan
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:17 AM
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Northen tool has them too and much less expensive. The wire hooks are ok and there is a clip style too.
By the way the hook or clip is not the load carrying part, wrap the strap thru the stake pocket and use the hook just to secure the end. I wrap a piece of duct tape around it too so it can't come loose.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2007, 08:44 AM
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There are some of those heavy duty straps that have a short piece of chain on each end instead of the hooks..Some of you may like those as well..

Sam
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2007, 10:14 AM
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I have found out that you should by the better quality ones because if you go to put alot of pressure on the handle it can fold up on you & then its worthless.


I use Chains & Binders for any trip over 30 miles.



R
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:01 AM
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With you having the brake controller I would leave the car back like that. If you get it any further forward you are going to hate your drive. The one small bump will create a bouncing motion that will not stop for miles. You almost never want to have a trailer going downhill. You want it level or just slightly uphill. I know it may be all you have, but if you plan to do this often, I would reconsider doing it with the ranger. Your car may be light, but your truck should not squat that much when you center your rear axle over the trailer axles.

The straps should be rated at 20k+. Also if you are going to have them go over any corners in the steel (like your two rear straps) I would get some plastic corner protectors or card board to put between the steel and the straps. The steel may not be sharp to the touch but when you have that much tension and the straps are constantly moving it will begin to fray and cut. I don't know how many straps I have seen get ruined because of this. All it takes is a little piece of cardboard to act as a buffer between the strap and steel.

I could go on and on, I have been around trailers all of my life, literally. My family owns and operates a trailer (horse, livestock, cargo, flatbed, utility, dump) sales business. I know I am only 23 but it is safe to say because I frequently pickup trailers new from the factory I have driven more miles with a trailer (or trailers) behind me than some have driven without trailers behind them.

Here is a load of 5 trailers I just brought back last weekend:



I know I am a little late, but if you look for another trailer or have friends looking for trailers in your area. Check out ABU Trailers (abutrailers.com). They have like 5 dealers in WI. They aren't a huge manufacture, but we have sold hundreds (probably even in the thousands) of these trailers with very few problems. They are extremely well built (in SE North Dakota). They are a little more expensive than the Load Trail, but they are in my opinion superior to them in quality and durability (paint, flooring, structure, axles, etc.)

Also, if you ever buy a different Electronic Brake controller don't buy anything else other than a Tekonsha product (my favorite is the Prodigy because of the technology and the fact it has saved my butt from stupid drivers a few times already).
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:36 AM
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tyman...thanks for the input. Some of us that pull a lot take things for granted so it is good to point out the straps. I tend to go to the high side for straps as I lost a race car in a crash and ensuing fire. Trailer rolled completely over and was laying on it's side with the dragster still strapped down. Someone else driving with my car and trailer.

I just saw a post on an rv forum where a guy has a 3/4 ton truck pulling a 34 foot tag and he also ran into the "bouncing" going down the highway. He is considerably overloaded even with load levelers however but this is what can happen if the trailer is not level. At least it evens it out some.

I've been pulling trailers since the early 70's with a dually and they just can't be beat. Either goose neck or 5th wheel or hitch. I've even pulled some big stuff like your tandem dually trailer and they are great.

Cool tow truck.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:53 AM
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I figure I have been pulling about 10 years now. I am no stranger to loads like the one in the photo. I am like you, I prefer to use chains and binders, but they sometimes just don't work because you can't get a binder in without damaging the paint. I don't want to look in my rear view mirror and see a trailer (or whatever I am hauling) go flying off right in front of other traffic. I am also anal about checking my straps. I check it every time I fuel up and sometimes I will pull of at an exit to check after I have gone over some nasty bumps or I have had to rail on the brakes. Sometimes the slightest shift can loosen up the tightest chain.

As far as the RV goes, I personally prefer not to pull anything much longer than 20-22' on my bumper with or without load equalizers, unless it is a heavy duty truck. 34' is just ridiculous, he needs to take it in to a good welding/fabrication shop chop off the A frame for the bumper hitch and have them build a gooseneck. Problem solved! We have done that to a few units already, it really does make a difference.

Dually's are great towing rigs. They just suck for traction. Our tow rig is a dually, but we use it for plowing snow as well and it just sucks for traction. Thanks for the compliment on the rig. It tows like a dream, it is the 8100 Chevy with the 6spd Allison transmission. I am not a Chevy guy, but this rig is convincing me otherwise. We got the HD suspension and we added Air-Rite overload air bags so it sure can handle a heavy load. I had no problems driving 70-75 safely with that load. It handled well, stopped very well, and it barely noticed the hills. That 8100/Allison 6spd combo is amazing.
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Old 05-24-2007, 12:43 PM
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I like the Duramax too even though I'm died in the wool Dodge Cummins owner. Here is what I do in the winter...I have a queen water bed that I lay in the bed about the 1st of Nov and fill it up with water, 1200 pounds at least. I have another single just in case and it's 600 #. Once frozen it stays that way all winter. BTW I strap this thing in good and tight. I also have dually chains and I go anywhere I want even though I only drive the rear 4 wheels. 36" wet snow last winter. No 4wd made it out of the parking lot before me. I use good winter tires and common sense most of the time. haha

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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 07:14 PM
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TYMAN00,

Does That gooseneck have a hitch on the rear or a Temporay pull point?


Do you run Brakes to the 2nd trailer?


Nice Rig



R
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