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Old 08-16-2005, 11:37 AM
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Trailer Tie Downs

I just a bought a new trailer and I am wondering what is the best/easiest method of tying down my hot rods? I was looking at the wheel web tie downs, E-tracks, or just ratcheting each corner to the frame. Any of you hot-rodders have a similar trailer? I have attached 2 photos to show what type I have.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:42 PM
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Install some hook rings into the deck of the trailer and use ratchet straps (heavy duty ones) and go around the front and rear axles back down to the hook rings.

Steve
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Old 08-16-2005, 02:09 PM
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this is how we do it , you can get the straps & ratchets here http://www.take3trailers.com/eshop/p...ageHistory=cat








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Old 08-16-2005, 03:37 PM
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Ratchet straps are OK but they can chafe the paint. It just depends on that situation. The wheel webs are pricy but you do not have to worry about paint damage with them.
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Old 08-16-2005, 04:53 PM
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Time to start a little lively debate-
I prefer to tie the frame down to the trailer.With a heavier car,I've found that the rig handles and rides better if suspension movement of the car on the trailer is minimized.I use a set of "t" hooks simular to those used by car carriers that deliver new cars to dealers.These hooks are available from any towing equiptment dealer.
I also prefer chains to straps.To protect the paint on the trailered car,I use old 1-1/2" fire hose,cut to the needed length.
The first step in tying down the car is to position it properly on the trailer,both fore and aft and centered side to side.The goal of the front/back position is to get the proper weight distribution on the tow rig.At this point,I run a chain from the tie down holes or hooks on the car to a tie loop or keyhole slot on the trailer.I set up chains on all 4 corners,then use ratchet type load binders to pull the frame down snug to the trailer.I load the suspension on the trailered car enough so the car doesn't bounce while going down the road.

George
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:13 PM
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i have to agree with george

i have multiple t hook set ups that i use with cross chains to welded squares on the trailer,
I use chain binders and a some along on each end just for insurance
i dont like the vehicle bouncing around with the suspension in use because thats what it does bounce around
straps stretch tear and burn chains stay put!!

I have enough to worry about with people trying to drive over and under me without worrying about my load if you want i'll dig out the stuff and take pics


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Old 08-16-2005, 06:33 PM
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Good points Fast Orange and Rob Keller !
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Old 08-16-2005, 06:58 PM
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we have never had A N Y Paint or body damage issues to date. tire straps don't come close enough to the vehicle to chafe the paint the tire strap goes over the top of the tire, down to just above the top 1/2 of the tire. with the tire straps around the front tire pulled to the center of the car, and with the ratchet hooked on the trailer. and a rear tire strap around the rear tire pulled to the center of the car, with the ratchet hooked on the trailer, has worked Best 4 us. our 1st trailer was a 3 car wedge with chains with "t" hooks similar to those used by stacker car carriers, and the straps are less worry and hold the vehicle the most secure. if you seen where and how the wedges and stacker's tie them chains to the vehicles, you would prefer straps this February will be or 7th yr owning a car transport business. we transport about 12 to 15 vehicles a month, 1800mi one way is a usual transport.

Straps have very little stretch, those who say straps stretch, have very little use with them we check our load in the 1st 100mi after loading and make adjustments then.

on a single car trailer pulled with a light weight truck, vehicle bouncing on the suspension maybe a issue,and so is positioning it properly on the trailer, but on our set up it is Not !

100% Right on positioning for a single car trailer

The first step in tying down the car is to position it properly on the trailer,both fore and after and centered side to side.The goal of the front/back position is to get the proper weight distribution on the tow rig

on a single car trailer the car positioned correctly is important, and on a single car trailer in the past i've used chains & boomers. butt now know that straps are the way to go.

Everyone that puts wheel straps & ratchets down, have you tried them on a vehicle ???

to date we have Never had a Strap Tear !

what i'm saying is from 100% Experience ..............

Mustangsaly
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:11 PM
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Good points by Mustang Sally....I do know that straps are used to secure loads on cargo aircraft, they do not use chains for some reason, hmmmm. And the winner is ...........
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Old 08-16-2005, 07:49 PM
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Mustang-
On the rig in your picture,I don't doubt that wheel tie downs work great,but the trailer reddog has is a different story. I'm not questioning your proffessionalism or the things that work for you,but simply telling what has worked for me for the past 20 years,both towing cars on a trailer ,and transporting them on a rollback truck.Any suspension movement on the car being towed is felt in,and affects the ride and handling of the tow rig.Proper tying down of the suspension minimzes this effect.Thats why I do what I do,and why I don't use wheel straps.They work for you,but allow too much movement on a car trailer pulled by a pickup,in my opinion.
I personally prefer chains to straps because they have more uses than just tying a car to a trailer,cost less,don't mildew or rot and can be inspected easier.I use class 7 3/8" chain,which has a working load over 5000 lbs,along with correctly sized ratchet load binders.Although I have a winch on my trailer,I don't use it to secure the car on the trailer,only to load it if needed.
I have never lost or damaged a car either.

George
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:04 PM
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single unit hauling

I agree with the vehicle positioning. Get it square on the trailer and weight properly distributed fore and aft. I used a truck scale to get almost exactly 10% of the total load on the tongue. The pickup set almost level at that point. I built a hitch adapter with the proper drop to make the trailer set level when loaded and another to make it set level empty. Having the trailer axles unevenly loaded will make the trailer pull poorly.
While this is kind of as moot point now, match the trailer to the normal load it will be hauling. It should be long enough to have the whole car on the deck at proper tongue load. The axle and spring capacity should also be matched to the load. I had a trailer very similar to yours and it was only a 3500 lb capacity. By time you factor in the trailer weight, it would only haul 2600 lbs. While I did haul more than that on it, I had constant wheel bearing problems and a broken spindle was its demise. My new trailer has a 7000 lb capacity and I have had no problems with it for the last eight years. Normal load I haul is 5600 lbs.
Now to your original question. I use only the over the tire holdowns. They hold the car in place, don't put undue stress on the trailer and are easy to install. I do use a single 2 1/2' strap over the axle to the back of the trailer frame. Maybe it will keep the car from running over me if the worst happens.
I have had good success with nylon straps on the axles, both crossed and straight.(watch thw brake lines) Crossed is better because they don't let the car move sideways ( I consider this the biggest problem) while straight has better fore and aft control. So I guess that a combination of them would be the best for nylon straps. You still have to crawl under the car to put them on.
Tying down the body on a on a single unit trailer will cause you a lot of grief. These are personal experience- lost straps (at thirty dollars apiece, don't buy cheap ones), A small heart attack when the 67 Vette rolled off the front of the trailer while stopping (see lost straps), bent frame on a original 57 fuelie convert, tie downs jerked out of the trailer deck along with part of the wooden deck (they aren't designed for a vertical pull with a shockload.) broken springs and list goes on.
I'll shut up now

Last edited by 61bone; 08-16-2005 at 08:06 PM. Reason: left out material
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:23 PM
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Fast Orange, i understand completely. we carry chains and binders for salvage we transport, and use the winch for loading & unloading, butt not for securing the load. our take 3 trailer has 3 7K axles, and we have not lost one yet, never had any trouble on a single car trailer either. but many use to small of a truck to pull the trailer. straps are great and the ones i use are not expensive and make DOT happy. $10 for wheel loop straps 10k rating and 2in X 12ft long with w/7" sewn eye, and one end heat sealed and $ 17.50 for ratchets, they do ware and we replace them.




Mustangsaly
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:27 PM
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I use heavy duty rings bolted to the frame rails in the four corners of the trailer. I bolt them on with grade 8 bolts. If you bolt to the wooden deck you will have to reinforce it with steel plates. By using four 3500 lb tie downs the car is supported very well. This system works well in enabling the trailer to carry any vehicle of any wheel base. The trick is getting the car in the right place to stop suspension bounce. Every 6 inches you move the vehicle frontward or backward changes the tongue weight by about 100 lbs. I have found measuring the vehicles wheel base and putting that center point directly between the two trailer tires is a good starting point.
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:35 PM
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61-
Your post brings up another good point.Tie down points should be bolted/welded to the frame of the trailer,not to the decking.I have 8 keyhole plates on my trailer,all are welded to the actual frame and crossmembers.
I havent had any problems with the tie downs coming loose,nor have Iever had a broken spring on either the trailer or the car on the trailer.
I probably run about 10-15% tongue weight when loaded also.
As I posted earlier,your way works for you,my way works for me.I don't think theres a right or wrong thing that either of us are doing,just what works for each of us and our rigs.
Set up the way I've described,I can run down the road at 70-75 MPH,straight,true and stable and feel comfortable doing it.

George
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:55 AM
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2X4 stake holders

Quote:
Originally Posted by reddog728
I just a bought a new trailer and I am wondering what is the best/easiest method of tying down my hot rods? I was looking at the wheel web tie downs, E-tracks, or just ratcheting each corner to the frame. Any of you hot-rodders have a similar trailer? I have attached 2 photos to show what type I have.
I forgot to mention I have 2X4 stake holders welded around the frame, I would like to secure to these.
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