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Old 07-20-2014, 12:18 PM
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Tranny has a grimlin

Ok here goes , i have a 96 tahoe with a 98 series 2 5.7 vortec engine .This a high mileage rig but in very good shape mech. The automatic has been working great up till a couple of weeks ago, the kids used it to go to toon town and said it was acting funny coming home . I was working 7 12's so didn't have a chance to check it out .I took said truck to work and thought that it felt a bit gutless ,(Working nights) but when i went home after shift it worked like it should .Went back to work felt gutless so i tried shifting manually , i got 2nd and third reverse park but no od or 1st .The truck shift very crisp into any gear it has if that makes sense . Got it scanned and it told me 2to 3 shift solenoid , torque converter not working, and i think 1 to 2 shift solenoid . so me thinks this this could be wiring issue cause it seems strange to me all this would go at once .The tranny fluid is a nice bright red and no burnt smell .Also i'm not sure if this all electronically controlled or not but i think it maybe . There is a electronic shift selector module on the tranny instead of mechanical like i'm used to . any way thoughts comments etc would be good, thanks for the happy birthday . Later Bake

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Old 07-20-2014, 03:23 PM
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check the pink wire going into trans for + with ign switch on..
if no power it's the ign switch.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:19 PM
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Sounds like you're losing communication from trans to PCM.As a result,the tranny is going into" limp mode".Check for broke,loose'dirty connectors'etc.Clean the plugs @ the tranny & PCM.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:45 PM
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kool thanks fellas i'm on that like a fat kid on smarties . That's after i'm done some renos for me and the missis . That's the great thing about working construction you get to doit for however long the job lasts and then come home and do more . Please don't take the fat kid thing seriously it's just my dark sense of humour . later bake .
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:27 PM
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. What are "renos"? I only know about cars... don't tell me if it's dirty or perverted... LOL!

. My Gremlin has a tranny... sorry, couldn't resist...
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:49 PM
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my goodness the grimlin funny was so good you had to post it twice ????? later bake
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:11 AM
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. Don't see it twice... did somebody remove one? This website having problems today... kept getting a message that there was a problem instead of getting the page... other people had their postings double post also...
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:01 AM
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From what you have described it sounds like the (A) solenoid is faulty if it is a 4L60E or 4L80E.
A solenoid faulty 2nd and 3rd only.
B solenoid faulty 1st and 4th only
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:26 AM
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do i have to drop the pan or better to shop ?
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:56 AM
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If you feel comfortable drop the pan you will see 2 solenoids next to each other one of them could be intermittent.It would be best to replace both while your at it. If that is your problem.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:43 PM
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Ok fellas that's one more issue i forgot to to you and my gauges especially the tack & speedo. When this first started if the gauges worked so did the tranny may be happen chance don't know. So cleaned all connections i can see so on to the computer connections.I checked the only pink wire i find plugged into tranny and got a reading of 5.56 volts , i'm thinking it should be closer to 12 correct me if i'm wrong .I will also check for loose or missing grounds . Later Bake
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:34 PM
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So, do the gauges work or no? If the tach & speedo are not working you need to check for a blown fuse! In fact, check all the fuses right now to see if they are all good. A blown fuse will put the trans in "fail-safe" which is 3rd gear only, unless you manually select 2nd with the shifter. Still, like you said, in fail-safe there will be no 1st gear starts, or O/D. The vehicle will want to take off in 3rd gear at all times unless you manually shift it down into 2nd. This is most likely an electrical issue. If all fuses check good, it's time to start ohming your solenoids to see if they all have the correct resistance. My guess is, it's a blown fuse. Let us know what you find.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:47 PM
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If you're not setting any codes,it's most likely bad/faulty wiring/connections,or,it could also be a bad PCM.The kids coulda went thru or over some really ruff terrain on their trip & shook things up.LOL.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:03 PM
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I checked all the fuses and they were ok and yes the gauges work some of the time mostly in drive and yes the tranny is in limp mode because it acts exactly as kawabuggy described so i guess its back to cleaning connections . If that doesn't work it maybe time for the shop
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:14 PM
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Before you do anything drastic, let's do some simple testing that you can do at home. Look at one of the diagrams posted here: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...41.Zab_fxPxasc

Figure out which one in your harness is the red/pink power-wire. With the vehicle cold, unplug the main harness that plugs into the transmission. Now, take a paper-clip and unwind it so that it is somewhat straight. Now locate the hole that is the RED/PINK power supply in the on-car harness. Plug your paperclip into that pin hole. Using a voltmeter select DC, and hold the RED lead to the paperclip, and the black lead to any bare metal spot on the frame, or even the transmission. With the key in the "RUN" position-do you have 12 volts? This is what we need to know. The concerning part is when you say sometimes it runs normally, and sometimes it does not... If you have 12V right now while testing, does not mean that you will have 12V when running down the road. You could have a faulty ignition switch, a PCM ground that is loose (known problem on the 1996). Please post back and tell us if you have 12V at the on-car harness connector.

If it's an intermittent problem, and no codes are setting, then I would suspect PCM, loose ground connection, or failing ignition switch.

Here is one way you can go about this..
#1. Rig up a 12V light bulb in a socket that you can put inside the vehicle with you. Run one lead from the socket to the RED/PINK wire that powers the trans (on the back side of the harness just remove a little insulation and wrap your wire around the bare copper making sure it contacts), and the other lead to a good ground. Now drive the vehicle. If the light flickers, or goes out at any point-you have a problem OUTSIDE the transmission on the power supply side.

If you find that the power supply is dropping out because your light flickers, or goes out, then you can begin backtracking to find out what is causing the power to drop. If this is the case, you can temporarily run a fused 12V power supply that is ignition activated to the RED/PINK wire and the trans should work, and shift normally (as long as the PCM is sending the signals to shift). This should be a short term solution only as you really need to figure out what the root cause is! If the PCM is not commanding line pressure you will burn the transmission up on short order so if you run the external wire-drive only for emergency purposes until you can fix it right.

I have a home-made shift box that provides it's own power supply, and allows me to command any gear I want thereby bypassing the vehicles PCM, and power supply. I can test transmissions this way to rule out problems on the vehicle.
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