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trans tunnel clearance?
I have a '39 Ford two door sedan sitting on as S10 Blazer frame. I made a floorboard super structure out of one inch tubing. I bought a universal trans tunnel and wonder how much clearance there should be between the trans and the tunnel. I'm thinking at least two inches. Am I close? Thanks in advance, Rod
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Moving to general rodding tech..
Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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I usually try for one inch clearance ... have not had any problems with any of my builds.
![]() I dislike a big, over sized tunnel. On a 39 Ford ... it would not be as bad as in a 32 Ford. The smaller the tunnel, the easier it is to get the accelerator over further away from the brake pedal and the steering column.
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"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. " |
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Hey Deuce, I like that picture of a wadded up moving blanket you used as a trans tunnel...Now that's being resourceful
2 inches is too much. No pedal room. Maybe at the top it would be ok, but at the sides it would cause problems. I build them with no less than 1/2" clearance from any point on the trans or associated parts. Nothing ever rattles with 1/2" clearance, as far as I know.( hit a bump that will shake the body and motor on their mounts enough to move them 1/2" and the sound of the trans hitting the floor is much quieter than the sound of your head hitting the roof )Try laying some 1/4 or 5/16 ID rubber hose over the trans, tape it down, then let the tunnel rest on it while you fit it to the floor. Later, mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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Quote:
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"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. " |
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Quote:
That's no moving blanket...that's some sort of well disguised terrorist bomb. Note the electronic detonating device hooked up to it on the right. (Um, or maybe it's just an electric blanket to pre heat his transmission.)
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Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod. |
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Thanks guys
Thanks, Duece and powerrodsmike for the advice. Thanks for the pictures, Deuce. You've both been very helpful. I'll try the hose thing. It sounds like it would work. Thanks again, Rod
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"Try laying some 1/4 or 5/16 ID rubber hose over the trans, tape it down, then let the tunnel rest on it while you fit it to the floor."
Excellent!! |
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That's a trick I learned from the custom motorcycle guys...that's how you position a snug fitting front fender to mount it and maintain enough tire clearance so a rock caught in the tread does not wipe out the paint when it cuts a dent from the inside out of the fender as it rolls through.Later, mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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thanks again
Thanks for the comment, techinspector1. Sounds like a plan, Rod
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It's interesting to note that when us hotrodders build a car, we normally start with the frame and then find a place for everything. When purpose-built tube frame cars are put together, all the components are hung in space at the appropriate positions in the car, then the frame is constructed with curves, bends and whatever else to intersect the components and tie them in. In other words, the frame is the last thing that goes into the car.
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Thanks again
Thanks, red65mustang, I hadn't thought about the heat factor yet, but I'll have to. techinspector1, that's an interesting concept about building a frame around an interior, amazing. Thanks to both of you, Rod
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On manual transmissions with floor mounted shifters, I just make a removable cover that comes completely up and out to service/adjust the clutch, shifter, and rods.. If a rollover mounted trans is used you can also service the trans.
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