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Old 09-19-2011, 01:08 PM
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Transbrake and driving?

I'm looking to put a transbrake in my turbo 350 and I've heard that with one you cont really drive it one the road. Is this true? Is there a way around it? Thanks for the info!

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Old 09-19-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clance54
I'm looking to put a transbrake in my turbo 350 and I've heard that with one you cont really drive it one the road. Is this true? Is there a way around it? Thanks for the info!
You can drive them on the street with no problem. The only thing is that in order to go in reverse, the button needs to be held down. At least that's the way my transbrake in my TH400 is. In essence, a transbrake (with the button pushed) locks first and reverse together hydraulically until the button is released. You have to be careful and not hold the button in for a long period as it causes the tranny fluid to get hot in quick time. Why do you want a transbrake for street driving anyways?
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:55 PM
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I plan on racing but still want it streetable. But heard it wasn't good to do so with a transbrake.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:15 PM
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And I suggest forgetting the transbrake and instead racing off the footbrake. For a street-strip vehicle, foot braking racing is, in my view, more fun, and does not risk the rare, but not unheard of, mechanical failures that can result from running a transbrake in a street vehicle. On that topic, the National Street Rod Association affirmatively rules against using a transbrake in a street driven car. And speaking personally, i enjoy running high 10s in a Model A that also serves regularly as a grocery getter, and all done using a foot brake.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:26 PM
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Interesting. What stall is your converter out of curiuosity?
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:59 PM
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For the past several years, I ran a 3,200 stall B & M Holeshot convertor behind my B & M TH 350 to a best of 11.007 at 118 mph, with rear gears of 3:54. I switched to an A-1 4,000 stall convertor in July 2011 and dropped the e.t. to 10.93 and mph up to 120.50. With that switch, I see 5-10 degree hotter engine temps on days hotter than 90 in typical street/freeway traffic. Specifically, crawling in freeway traffic at 90 plus degrees, my radiator temp now creeps up to 205 F, while before the convertor swap it never saw 200 in similar weather. This is well below boiling, with a 16 pound cap, but nonetheless worth paying attention to. This likely is a product of higher trans temps from slippage in the convertor at street rpms. I consequently plan to augment my trans cooler, which currently runs through the bottom of the radiator, then through a separate fin-based tubes, with a trans cooler employing a thermostatically controlled fan.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:22 PM
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I have a hughs 400 with a brake and Rev valve body. I dont have to do anything to use Rev. Unless I push the button you'd never know its there.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:30 PM
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That's good to know. Thanks. Do you run a manual valve body or just a decent shift kit?
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:40 PM
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Its manual rev pattern.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
I have a hughs 400 with a brake and Rev valve body. I dont have to do anything to use Rev. Unless I push the button you'd never know its there.
I have to hold the button for reverse. Guess each manufacturer is different in it's operation.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:56 AM
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I don't usually suggest transbrakes to my customers with 350's. I've seen too many come apart, catastrophically. The 400 is a much better choice for a 'brake application. I prefer to use Hipster 'brakes, because they don't require you to use the button for reverse. I have customers running in the bottom 9's with footbrake 350's. We ran a '70 Camaro that we had a 350 in for 4 years, which ran 10.83 @ 125 MPH.WE were running an 8", 4500 stall. I prefer the Turbo Action manual valvebody with a STANDARD pattern shift order. I have many many customers using transbrake 400's for normal street driving, with no issues. When you're not using the brake, they work like any other manual valvebody 400. I prefer Hipster STANDARD pattern manual valvebodies for my 400's. I, as well as most of my customers, prefer to have drive right next to neutral in a drag car. Some neutral the trans after going through the traps. I personally don't want to have to downshift if something goes wrong on the big end.

Frank
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:17 AM
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Shifting to neutral after the Traps can be "Very Dangerous". It causes the Trans internals to spin at much higher rpms and heavy Trans internals can explode from the centrifugal force.

From "Rossler's" site:
(Special safety note: Never throw any 3-speed transmission into neutral when you cross the finish line, leave the transmission in high gear as you slow down. The internal parts will spin 2 to 2-1/2 times faster then the trap RPM and can cause internal parts to explode and exit the transmission, this may cause injury and or death, the exit of the transmission fluid may cause fire or loss of control of the car. Always run a shield and all safety equipment mandated by IHRA ADRL and the NHRA. Safety is no place to cheap out!)
http://www.rosslertrans.com/Burn-Out...rocedures.html
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:40 AM
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[QUOTE=SSedan64]Shifting to neutral after the Traps can be "Very Dangerous". It causes the Trans internals to spin at much higher rpms and heavy Trans internals can explode from the centrifugal force.

X100
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:54 PM
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Have NEVER had one come apart from this practice. I don't do it, personally, but I have customers that do...

Frank
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