[acsteve]

I have read that some lvlp $$$ guns get up around 85% transfer efficiency. I wonder what efficiency a hf hvlp would get? what about a non-hvlp finishline?

[Bee4Me]

I can tell you that the "purple" hf gun is about "average" with most any gun.You have to crank the air up to "conventional" levels to get clear flat.It's basically a conventional gun with a regulator and different nozzle/air cap.So, Your getting almost as much waste with overspray as a conventional.Not quite as bad but close.
I can't tell you the actual mil's but it's not "that" thick.
My FLG-2 Finishline is about the same but it does not lay clear very well unless you crank the air above it's "recommended" setting and it's fan is only 6" at best. It shoots paint well but clear is another story.
My Iwata LPH-400 is unbelievable from a transfer aspect.
It wil give you twice the transfer IMO as these other 2.
I find I have to mix more product as it seemed to run short on shoot's that "normally" would have been plenty of clear.The o'spray "cloud" is noticeably less as well.
I laid 2 coats on a graphic's practice panel. Decided to redo the graphics and sanded them off,back to the original clear on the base color, and I sanded with 220 to get back down as the 400 was just taking forever. That showed me how well the transfer was with an Iwata. I don't recommend using this harsh of grit for sanding clear but this was also an experiment to SEE how thick it was being laid. I can sand using 600 without thinking about cutting thru,edge's and such exempt of course.

[MARTINSR]

I know this is probably going to start a peeing match (not with you I don't assume ) I believe what you experianced could have nothing to do with the gun. The transfer efficency of the gun isn't going to make NEARLY as big a difference as the "solid" content of the product.

An HVLP gun by law (at least here in CA) must have 68% transfer efficency as I remember. There is a non-HVLP gun that is at that now, I can't remember the name.

I honestly don't understand how they come up with the numbers. I know that if I spray my HVLP Sharpe Platinum next to my Devilbiss GTI Millinium the Sharpe has NOTICEBLY less overspray. Or, so it appears, this is not a test so if I were to weigh fluid and measure each guns output or weight the paint on the panel or what ever they do to come up with these numbers they may be the same, who knows.

In a nut shell though, HVLP DOES save some material if it the gun is set up as per manufactures recommendations. I have not used a convential gun in years and years, but I remember a noticable difference when I went to HVLP.

Brian

[baddbob]

Transfer efficiency is dependant on a lot of things, I can set up/adjust a conventional gun to attain 100% transfer efficiency but the paint will look like gravel guard. Your better guns like the Iwata will give good transfer and at the same time good atomization. The cheaper guns usually need more air for good atomization then the transfer goes bad. JMO Bob

[jcclark]

This sounds like what I posted a couple of weeks ago.
I have a DeVilbiss gun sold by Sears, it advertises 90% efficiency.
At the low 23 lbs pressure it probably is close, but the finish is never
as good as if you crank it up a little, then you get the clouds.
I can spray it with 20 lbs and hardly get any overspray or "clouds".
It's great for small areas and primer that you plan on sanding.

My Astro HVLP at 40 to 45 lbs as recommended lays a great finish but
puts out more clouds than my Binks 7, so it seems to me.
I have a Binks 7 that is a special "basecoat/clearcoat" model, and
it still sprays better than anything I have used.
I mostly use the HVLP for convenience reasons.
It seems that the higher pressure HVLP's put out clouds and that
the lower pressure ones that don't, you can't get as good of a finish.
I'm looking for one that does both.

[tab]

I have been using my Binks 69 and Sears 1hp compressor combo for 23 years. I get lots of over-spray but I can always get a smooth finish provided I have the mixture/pressure set properly. I would like a new gun but I firmly believe that you can get a very smooth finish with just about any, decent quality gun, provided that you pay attention to the paint/thinner mix and line pressure. Since most people wheel out the paint / clear coat, anyway, the gun won't make that much difference, in the final results. It would be nice to have less over-spray and not have any paint left at the bottom of my cup, but I don't paint that often to worry about it.

[oldred]

Ok, I have been watching for info on LVLP guns but not much is being said. How does this compare to HVLP? I know about low volume/low pressure but how does this work?

[MARTINSR]

Jim, I am going to leave my comment at a "I don't think so" being I don't know what guns may have been developed recently. But, 90%, I don't think so. You are talking "airless" that you paint a house with for crying out loud. I think Sears has been smoking the funny plant.

Brian

[jcclark]

I thought it was very optimistic too!!!!
I'll check the manual tonight, I may be off-base about
the exact percent. (I don't want to be acused of lieing again)
I remember it was unbelievably high though.
I know if I spray with low pressure I see no cloud at all,
I can use it for one panel in my garage and not ventilate.
Too bad the finish is not all that good at that pressure.
It also has a real narrow fan at that pressure.
It's almost like a mini touch-up gun when that low.

[acsteve]

a bit ago I painted with the knockoff w400, a bit of nason etch primer....set the pressure at 20# with trigger pulled. No cloud, Looked ok when done, top coat I turned up to 32 # got some overspray but atomized welll and it all seemed ok but I sprayed sealer at 20# too and used a bunch... too much I would think. should I keep the pressure up at +32# for best results and to avoid problems?