Transmission Issues with a Borg Warner Super T10 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 07:05 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Transmission Issues with a Borg Warner Super T10

Hi, I don't own that old of a performance car but have a 1982 Camaro Z28 with 34,000 original miles with a 305 (LG4) and a Borg Warner Super T10 4 speed with the factory mechanical linkage/clutch setup. I figured this would be the best place to ask since few "third gen" experts are familiar with the Super T10/Mechanical Clutch since it was only used 1 year to my knowledge in these cars before they went to T5's. The car runs and drives great but seems to have some issues with the transmission. I have had the z-bar replaced, clutch linkage adjusted, and the shifter gate bolts were greased and tightened. The car seems to shift nicely when its cool but if you drive it hard, sit in traffic, or let it sit after a short drive then try to drive it again, it becomes very hard to shift. Neutral coasting more often seems to help sometimes but other times doesn't make a difference. Weather does seem to have an effect on it as well, it shifts easier in cooler weather.

Sometimes it won't let you shift into first and other times it becomes difficult to shift into 2nd and third as well. "Spirited" driving often can result in grinding every gear except 4th. For example, I drove it a nice 15 minute drive to Best Buy and it shifted easily in every gear but I neutral-coasted often. After letting the car sit off for 5-10 minutes while in Best Buy, once I started the car it instantly became difficult to shift, grinding reverse and making it difficult to shift into first and second to get out of the parking lot. I've noticed that sometimes it "fixes itself" by shifting better for a minute and if you hold the clutch in when stopped eventually it gets easier to shift sometimes.

I've check the linkage and everything is intact and in good shape/functioning properly. What does have me worried is there is not much slack in the lower clutch rod (only a few threads left until its at the end) but one mechanic assured me the clutch functions fine? I'm at a complete loss at the moment with the transmission and don't want to drop the $$$ on a clutch if I don't have to now. Thanks for any help you might be able to provide.

*Edit* The car is an 1982 Z28 Camaro, which only had this transmission for this year only.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 07:20 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Linden, Michigan
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Make sure you have 1 to 1.5 inch free play in the clutch pedal. Does the free play change with temperature? Also make sure you are using the correct oil in the trans. Earlier units used AP 90 most T-5's use ATF, but there are other oils used also.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 08:01 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 60
Posts: 5,031
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 598 Times in 547 Posts
I would be suspicious that the pilot bushing/bearing is hanging up or tight on the input shaft, causing the input to turn even when the clutch is disengaged. Also the syncros could be worn.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 08:57 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The transmission oil was changed a little over a month ago by my mechanic with GL5 spec gear fluid designed for Borg Warner super t-10's and per the Chilton's manual I have for the car. The same mechanic adjusted the free-play on the clutch as well as it had none when I purchased the car and the pedal was very difficult to push in, now its in the 1-1.5 inch range and the pedal is easier to use. The bad thing is this car sat for 16 years in a garage until I bought it last September and I'm just gradually getting it work again in my garage. This issue isn't new which prompted me to take it to my mechanic to complete the fluid change and the adjustments. However, a little over a month later I'm having the same problem again.

I have noticed that sometimes if I hold the clutch in with the car in gear when at a stop light, there is sometimes a vibration/noise that occurs very briefly then goes away. Generally, I've been leaving the car in neutral at stop lights though sometimes I do leave it in gear anyway.

Thanks again for the help and your time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2010, 09:09 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 48
Posts: 10,569
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 72
Thanked 795 Times in 704 Posts
16 years is a long time to set, clutch disc could have bonded to rust on both flywheel and pressure plate, now that it is back into service it is likely just quickly eroding the disc fiber surface away. Rust on the nose of the input shaft where it goes into the pilot bearing could be behaving the same way. Disc hub could also be hanging up on rusted input shaft splines.

If it was adjusted away and is now back a month later, something is wearing fast or dragging/smearing/galling. Sounds like you will have to pony up for a new clutch.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:43 AM
Registered User
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 2,505
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 929
Thanked 277 Times in 244 Posts
Id suggest your clutch is giving up the party. Also, make sure your GL5 lube has the MT1 sub-spec as this makes it play nice with bronze synchros. Don't use the synthetic blend stuff. That being said, if the clutch is going to be inspected, check the input for rust as well while you're in there. Use a bronze pilot bushing that a magnet WON'T stick to. That T10 is a good unit, so if it needs a rebuild don't give up on it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2010, 09:50 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar moderator
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 70
Posts: 7,705
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 124
Thanked 210 Times in 194 Posts
Shift linkage adjustment..remove the shift rods from the transmission arms and place the levers on the transmission in the neutral position..then place the shifter in the neutral position and lock it into place some of the aftermarket shifters have a provison for a pin to hold the shifter in neutral for adjustment purpose..then adjust the shifter rods so they slip into the holes on the trans shift levers..this may help your issue..

Clear as mud I hope not..

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 02:31 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm going to have to look into adjusting the shift rods. I did notice the last time I was under the car the shift levers weren't perfectly even with the car in neutral. I've also had problems with the shifter (bolts un-threadded themselves, getting stuck in gear) and the transmission had the side case seal and bushings replaced (it was leaking fluid from side case which holds the 1-2 shift forks).

It seems that the shifter is binding sometimes as well, especially after driving it a distance then letting it sit for a few minutes. The shifter becomes very hard to move out of neutral or sometimes won't let you shift it into any gear when the car is off and still hot. Usually you have to push in the clutch to get it to release with the car off or start the car. It seems like the shifter is "off" as well because sometimes finding second gear is hard and 3rd gear is incredibily difficult at times as well.

I hope that adjusting the shift rods is a solution but I probably should be prepared for the worst. How much would it cost to replace the clutch "labor-wise" on this car? I know the oem clutch kit is around $150 but I don't have an idea on the labor. I've had clutches replaced in two FWD cars and one AWD car, which ranged from $700-$1000 easily including the clutch kit.
Thanks again for the help and for your replies.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2010, 07:46 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Linden, Michigan
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Labor rate is about 2 hours and is a gravy job for most techs.
Also, while out spend a little extra time and clean the shifter. There is usually a 1/4 inch carraige bolt that the shift lever pivots on from laft to right. Sometimes this shifter bolt becomes worn. It is easily replaced.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 06:31 PM
Last wiki edit: Calculating tire size
Last journal entry: Changes...
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Montreal
Age: 29
Posts: 532
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
1- adjust the shifter
2- try tightening the clutch linkage a bit so when you push the pedal to the floor it releases the disc more (if thats the problem)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Borg Warner T10 question Tomlowe523 Transmission - Rearend 4 08-01-2009 10:19 PM
Borg Warner 4 Speed Shifter Bracket Transmission - Rearend 6 11-04-2007 01:55 PM
borg warner t-10 or super t-10 Jared Transmission - Rearend 2 08-11-2003 10:39 PM
Replacing Borg Warner T10 with Richmond 6 speed beazil Transmission - Rearend 3 05-16-2003 08:59 AM
Super T10 or T10? Camaro2Fast4u Transmission - Rearend 4 01-13-2003 04:46 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:20 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.