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Old 06-18-2010, 02:25 PM
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Transtar chip Guard lifting paint HELP!!!

I have just painted and installed a new fascia. base coat/clear coat like I always do.
I came out great . I wanted to spay a clear textured chip guard to lower half of fascia like I have on the rocker panels.
Waited a week for clear to cure sprayed on chip guard and it's lifting the paint right down to the primer!!!!!!!!
I have used this before many times on my rocker panels and rear bumper.
Going crazy trying to figure this out. Guys at body supply have no idea.

HELP!! Please!

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Old 06-19-2010, 09:43 PM
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The chip guard solvents have penetrated the clear and basecoat. The only time I have seen this happen is when the last top coat gets under the clear/base.

What brand or type of base and clear did you use?

If you used Duplicolor, which is a lacquer, I can see this happening.

Frank Cox
Cox Custom Cars
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Old 06-19-2010, 10:05 PM
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Transtar chip Guard lifting paint HELP!!!

I used a Deltron 2000 base color and House of Color acrylic urethane two part clear.

It says on the Transtar chip guard that "it can be put over color base coat and fully cured acrylic clear"

The only thing I can think of is that the clear was not fully cured? I waited about a week before I tried the chip guard and was told today at auto body supply that it can take 30-60days before clear is fully cured?
Does that sound correct?
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnoman
The only thing I can think of is that the clear was not fully cured? I waited about a week before I tried the chip guard and was told today at auto body supply that it can take 30-60days before clear is fully cured?
Does that sound correct?
Craig Fraser, who's forum www.kustomkulturelounge.com is House of Kolors tech line, says clear that is BAKED takes 30 days to cure and if it is AIR DRIED it only takes 6-7 days to fully cure. He works DIRECTLY with HOK and is one of the MOST respected custom painters in the world.
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underground
Craig Fraser, who's forum www.kustomkulturelounge.com is House of Kolors tech line, says clear that is BAKED takes 30 days to cure and if it is AIR DRIED it only takes 6-7 days to fully cure. He works DIRECTLY with HOK and is one of the MOST respected custom painters in the world.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Sorry, pure bull.

Every clear is different and the same clear can vary 1-9 months depending on base, color of base, dry times, activator used vs temp at the time, how many coats. He cannot make a blank statement about all clears.

One care of mine took 9 months before i could not finger nail.
Another 6 months.
Another 3 months.
All were same clear, two cars had six coats, and one had 9 coats.
All painted by me,
The wifes car, with same clear and two coats was cured out in about three weeks, could have been four.



Even GM and Ford are smart enough to say not to wax 60-90 days and most of those are baked at 450-500 degrees, usually about 60 minutes.

Yes there are clear (hyper resins) that will dry out in sun in 24-48 hours, usually spot repair.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:20 AM
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Magnoman said he used HOK clear. EVERYTHING about my post was directed about HOK. I didnt mention ANY other brands. Like I said, Craig works directly with HOK and HOKs tech line goes DIRECTLY to Craigs site. I was simply stating what was specifically told to us at one of Craigs classes by him. Also it depends on which HOK clear was used. One of there clears cannot be sanded and even recleared with itself with out extra steps or it WILL lift all the way to the primer as described. Have toknow which clear was used.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:43 AM
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Transtar chip Guard lifting paint HELP!!!

Well this time I used Transtar Kwik Gloss and HOC hardener. Maybe I should not have mixed products but it worked before.

I would think that if it where baked it would cure faster? than not baked?

My next Q would be How can you tell when its fully cured?
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underground
Magnoman said he used HOK clear. EVERYTHING about my post was directed about HOK. I didnt mention ANY other brands. Like I said, Craig works directly with HOK and HOKs tech line goes DIRECTLY to Craigs site. I was simply stating what was specifically told to us at one of Craigs classes by him. Also it depends on which HOK clear was used. One of there clears cannot be sanded and even recleared with itself with out extra steps or it WILL lift all the way to the primer as described. Have toknow which clear was used.
Sorry underground, I did not read the link just what you wrote and as*-Um-ed he was applying it to all clears.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnoman
Well this time I used Transtar Kwik Gloss and HOC hardener. Maybe I should not have mixed products but it worked before.

[B]I would think that if it where baked it would cure faster? than not baked?[/B]My next Q would be How can you tell when its fully cured?
Craigs explaination was when you bake it, it forms a hard shell and the solvent have to FORCE themselves out. Air drying allows the paint to cure out the way it is supposed too. Production shops bake cars for speed of delivery. Nothing else. Craig also said he has never been in a custom shop that bakes their cars. They all let them air dry.
I would not mix HOK activators with other products. HOK is a very user UN-FRIENDLY system if you don't know what you are doing. It WILL bite you. Jon Kosmoski told us of a painter that done a job on his (the painters) HUMMER H1 when they first come out. Marbleizer, candies, airbrushing, ect... He was talking to Jon at a show when he was describing what he had done. Jon said he stopped him in the middle of the conversation and asked him if he had used adhesion promoter AFTER the marbleizer. The painter said No. Jon told him the paint job WAS GOING TO DELAMINATE! Not it MIGHT, but IT IS!. He said the painter got physically sick right there at the show. People use HOK everyday and dont have problems, but realize it is a very tempermental system and until you "know" what you can get away with (which doesn't mean you will get away with it next time!) you shouldn't be mixing products.
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