[MARTINSR]

Yeah the grille is typically going to be damaged pretty bad so replacement is likely. So the grille would be the one to sacrifice. But if the grille is nice, welding a hole backup in the hood, or fender would be easier to repair. But coming up from the bottom cutting a hole in the splash panel would be the best way to go I would think. Chopping a large hole in it with a die grinder and going up thru there sounds like a good way to go, the panel could be repaired easy or pick another one up, a heck of a lot cheaper than the hood I would think.

Brian

[da34guy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Yeah the grille is typically going to be damaged pretty bad so replacement is likely. So the grille would be the one to sacrifice. But if the grille is nice, welding a hole backup in the hood, or fender would be easier to repair. But coming up from the bottom cutting a hole in the splash panel would be the best way to go I would think. Chopping a large hole in it with a die grinder and going up thru there sounds like a good way to go, the panel could be repaired easy or pick another one up, a heck of a lot cheaper than the hood I would think.

Brian

X2 Easiest way

[oldBodyman]

From the pics you linked to it looks like a simple spring catch like an old VW bug
SO
drill a 1' hole in the splash pan and run a long screw driver up to the spring then have a friend run another screw driver thru the grille to work the first against the spring and open the hood. Remember the hinges are rusty, open slowly, don't bend the hood.

Have fun with it.

[RLDSL]

Originally Posted by oldBodyman

From the pics you linked to it looks like a simple spring catch like an old VW bug
SO
drill a 1' hole in the splash pan and run a long screw driver up to the spring then have a friend run another screw driver thru the grille to work the first against the spring and open the hood. Remember the hinges are rusty, open slowly, don't bend the hood.

Have fun with it.

After looking at it.... A lot, that's starting to sound like a winner . Ive got a large set of metal holesaws so I should be able to replace the removed plug cleanly (or leave it open as an emergency release access for the future :- )At least I did have the good sense to shoot down the hood hinges and springs with lube before I shut the thing so it * should* open cleanly once we get the latch problem out of the way. I had shot some down the hood release mechinisms as well, but I didn't think that there was a remote release cable on that year and didn't think to check for operation.

[RLDSL]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Yeah the grille is typically going to be damaged pretty bad so replacement is likely. So the grille would be the one to sacrifice. But if the grille is nice, welding a hole backup in the hood, or fender would be easier to repair. But coming up from the bottom cutting a hole in the splash panel would be the best way to go I would think. Chopping a large hole in it with a die grinder and going up thru there sounds like a good way to go, the panel could be repaired easy or pick another one up, a heck of a lot cheaper than the hood I would think.

Brian

unfortunately the grill is perfectly straight, , THats one piece we dont want to tear up.

[RLDSL]

Well, we got it open. After messing with it enough, we finally got the hood to pry open enough to be able to get a sawzall blade in there. They made that latch bolt out of REAL metal, went through two brand new carbide blades to slice one latch bolt, but it finally gave way to reveal a shockingly clean engine compartment in relation to the amount of rust and animal nesting that had taken over the rest of the poor thing.

Since were just looking to turn this into a driver with a mild restoration and not go nuts on it, it's beginning to look like not too bad a project.

Then we got a real treat, on cleaning out the nests from the back seat, we found a brand new rear fender to replace one that was damaged along with some other interesting artifacts..... like the complete operating mechanism from an old player piano , including the whole works from under the keyboard

[MARTINSR]

Brilliant solution to the hood problem. And interesting find there, I have heard of a lot of stuff being found in old cars, a player piano is not one of them.


Brian

[deadbodyman]

LOL, yeah thats a first for me too

[Old Fool]

Originally Posted by RLDSL

Well, we got it open. After messing with it enough, we finally got the hood to pry open enough to be able to get a sawzall blade in there. They made that latch bolt out of REAL metal, went through two brand new carbide blades to slice one latch bolt, but it finally gave way to reveal a shockingly clean engine compartment in relation to the amount of rust and animal nesting that had taken over the rest of the poor thing.

Since were just looking to turn this into a driver with a mild restoration and not go nuts on it, it's beginning to look like not too bad a project.

Then we got a real treat, on cleaning out the nests from the back seat, we found a brand new rear fender to replace one that was damaged along with some other interesting artifacts..... like the complete operating mechanism from an old player piano , including the whole works from under the keyboard

What were you using for blades? Freud Diablo or ?
I have seen the carbide blades but never could pull the trigger due to the price.

[RLDSL]

Originally Posted by Old Fool

What were you using for blades? Freud Diablo or ?
I have seen the carbide blades but never could pull the trigger due to the price.

Sorry, I can't remember the brand, but those suckers were about ten bucks each. First one fried itself right through and finally got thin and broke, the second just wore out but I managed to fight it through till the pin popped, and I was working the blade to make maximum usage of as much of the abrasive surface as I could reach in there, but I think that big old nasty spring around the latch bolt was giving the things a workout

I cant be sure considering the combination of metals involved, but I'd be hard pressed to say that those carbide blades are any better than the regular metal cutting blades, in fact, i think next time im going to save my money. I shouldnt think that it should take 2 blades to get through basically half a spring and most of a roughly 1/2" hardened bolt ( it didnt go all the way through but with about 1/16" left the bolt cocked sideways and I could pop it from there )

I may break down and grab another one just to do a side by side test just to make sure, hardened bolts can be ornery. The decades of rust on that thing may be clouding my judgement.