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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 04:29 PM
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Keith, I don't think the problem with RTV in my opinion is its use but the application of it. The surfaces I use it on with the exception of the intake rails is applied sparingly and then smoothed until it's just a thin film. I don't allow it to ooze over into the crankcase. Even the bead I run on the end rails is just enough to allow a good compressed seal and not so much that it can break off into the lifter valley. That also goes for the corners of the oil pan gasket.
I've taken apart some engines that probably had an entire tube of RTV in them. Now that's just plain wrong. I feel if you're going to run an engine with a vacuum pump and thin rings then the engine needs to be able to hold a vacuum of 15-16 inches without leaking. I believe the proper use of RTV helps that seal.

BSE Racing Engines
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 05:02 PM
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Say-hey Quarter Flash ' Thank You '

Originally Posted by Quarter Flash
Use a cam gear with one bolt holding it on to give you some leverage installing the cam. Slightly and slowly turn the cam as you work it in (careful carful) it will take a small drop every time the cam bearing surface clears the block bearings as you go in. Put assembly lube on cam lobs, distributor gear, back end of cam, the bottom of the lifters, both ends of pushrods, and on the end of the valve stems, both cam gears and chain. Make sure you soak your rings in oil also. Check all ring end gaps in the cylinder they will be installed in. This will assure you that no one made a mistake at the ring factory and gave you the wrong ring or rings. If you are not an experienced engine builder I would suggest you buy pre-gapped rings. Check your manifold gaskets and make sure there is no gasket material over hanging into the port or intake runners. If there is carfully trim it back with a razor or buy a different gasket you can trim or one that fits. Buy a tap and die set and re-tap all your bolts and bolt holes even if they are new. Pay attention to the proper torquing procedures and specifications for your engine. I usually torque in three steps example: 20 ft lbs, 40 lbs and 65 lbs on heads these specs may not be right for your engine. Always torque twice at least on each step because by the time you reach the last bolt in the sequence the first can become loose again. Depending on your gasket requirements you may need to re-torque your head gaskets and manifold gaskets after engine break-in procedure, heads first. Check the endplay on your crankshaft and make sure it is not excessive, especially if itís a regrind. Your book will give you the process and specs. Plastic gauge your main and rod bearings before you lube them. Check your manufactures recommendations for specs. Use assembly lube on your main and rod bearings, bearing surface only not on the backside. Use medium strength thread locker on your damper bolt. If your crank is not threaded for a damper bolt drill and tap it or have it done. Properly torque your starter it may save your ring gear. Make sure your ring gear is not on backwards. Check starter and ring gear fit before you bolt your bell housing or trans up and install your engine. Some people will disagree but I like to put a small smear of assembly lube on every other cog on the starter ring gear or flywheel. Donít put a lot on just enough to film the gear. Put your thermostat in a pan of water and make sure it opens before the water boils. Buy new motor mounts if yours are in doubt at all. If you have exhaust donuts consider changing them, now is a good time because you can get to them before you in stall your engine. Re-torque exhaust donuts after your engine break in procedure. I am sure I have forgot a lot of things. Some of what I do may be controversial and therefore I recommend you use what you and others feel is right for you. I am not trying to tell you what to do just suggestions.

Hi Bob

WOW! Nice work. I sure apprecate those great suggestions. I'm printing 'em out alone with the other guys also. What a good stuff is here. I will also follow your lead too.

Thank you so much my man.
Again, its guys like you who make this website " GREAT "

Take Care

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 05:15 PM
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Great Information

Schooner this is a great Bulletin Board. I have never failed to get what I needed to get my project rolling again. I have belonged to a lot of bulletin boards but nothing like this. I want to take the time to thank everyone here again for this site.

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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 07:50 PM
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I will add my two cents worth, spend the extra ten bucks for a one piece oil pan gasket, you won't regret it. Also one bit of extra info, place a straight edge on the timing cover and check the block side and water pump side of it. SB Fords are notorious leaker's if the covers edges are not flat and true.
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Old 10-25-2006, 08:23 PM
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Well it looks like the quote got a little twisted. I agree with engineczar. It must used properly to be effective, but I have no problem using it. I hate leaks more than rtv. Nothing looks worse than a puddle under a new engine.

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 08:35 PM
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What about machine work? Have you had this block hot tanked, checked for cracks? Then align honed, bored and honed, then decked? Has the crank been magnafluxed, and checked? Have the rods had the big ends reconditioned and maybe new bolts?

Lots of prep work before we assemble the engine.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2006, 08:48 PM
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Great thread.

The only thing I believe I can add is NEVER, EVER tug on Superman's cape!
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