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Old 10-24-2006, 08:43 PM
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Tricks Of The Trade From The Pro's

Hi Guys

I'm so new at engine re-building its a joke, but I'm learning' THANKS TO YOU GUYS

Just general knowledge I don't know; i.e.
When installing new hydraulic lifters its wise to soak 'em in oil before installing.

See, I didn't even know that. So I'm soaking 'em.

I'm trying to put together my newly bored out 0.030 my 1966 Ford Mustang 289 engine.

Got new cam just a little above average lift.
New hydraulic roller rockers.
New push rods
New s/steel valves
New double roller timing chain

QUESTION(S) PLEASE.

Guys can you tell me anything or everything you guys that the books don't mention.

I mean THE TRICKS OF THE TRADE THAT ONLY YOU GUYS DO to keep your engines in find running order

You got years of experiences and I don't. I'm willing to listen and hopefully be granted you knowledge if you will please

STUFF LIKE:
What to watch out for when setting the cam in and HOW TOO ?
What to watch out for when setting the heads on the motor and HOW TOO ?
What sealer to use and BEST GASKETS to use and HOW TOO install them ?

Those are some of the things you guys do in your own way and its BETTER THAN WHAT THE BOOKS TELL ME.

Guys I know its a lot to ask. However whatever TRICKS OF THE TRADE pops-up in your minds, PLEASE if you will share 'em with me.

I greatly appreciate your time and wisdom.

THANK GUYS
GOD BLESS YOU ALL

Schooner

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Old 10-24-2006, 09:20 PM
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STUFF LIKE:
What to watch out for when setting the cam in and HOW TOO ?
Use lots of cam lube...Watch that you don't knick a cam bearing when putting it in.

What to watch out for when setting the heads on the motor and HOW TOO ?
No sealer on head gaskets. A little oil on the head bolt threads. Torque them in the proper order going up in torque 3 times.

What sealer to use and BEST GASKETS to use and HOW TOO install them ?
Many good gaskets...Felpro are among the best......Don't overtighten gaskets, especially oil pan.
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Old 10-25-2006, 09:50 AM
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small block ford head gskets go on ONE way. Make sure the end marked "front" is at the front of the motor. On some brands, the gasket will appear to be upside down...no worries.front to the front. I always spray a thin coat of Copper Coat on the head gaskets...most people argue this point. Currently watching a buddy of mine tear his 355 back apart. Fel Pro head gaskets...no copper coat

Check everything twice. pay attention to the torque specs. make sure the assembly area is clean. Soak the timing chain in oil before installation.
lots of assembly lube on the cam, lifters, valve tips. Change the oil filter after about 15 min of run time, break it in on dino oil...if you're going to change to synthetic...get about 2500 on the motor.
Check all of the bolts. they should thread smoothly into the hole, if not, check the bolt & chase the threaded hole.
take your damn time

and a hundred other things that escape me right now
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Old 10-25-2006, 10:12 AM
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Suggestions

Use a cam gear with one bolt holding it on to give you some leverage installing the cam. Slightly and slowly turn the cam as you work it in (careful carful) it will take a small drop every time the cam bearing surface clears the block bearings as you go in. Put assembly lube on cam lobs, distributor gear, back end of cam, the bottom of the lifters, both ends of pushrods, and on the end of the valve stems, both cam gears and chain. Make sure you soak your rings in oil also. Check all ring end gaps in the cylinder they will be installed in. This will assure you that no one made a mistake at the ring factory and gave you the wrong ring or rings. If you are not an experienced engine builder I would suggest you buy pre-gapped rings. Check your manifold gaskets and make sure there is no gasket material over hanging into the port or intake runners. If there is carfully trim it back with a razor or buy a different gasket you can trim or one that fits. Buy a tap and die set and re-tap all your bolts and bolt holes even if they are new. Pay attention to the proper torquing procedures and specifications for your engine. I usually torque in three steps example: 20 ft lbs, 40 lbs and 65 lbs on heads these specs may not be right for your engine. Always torque twice at least on each step because by the time you reach the last bolt in the sequence the first can become loose again. Depending on your gasket requirements you may need to re-torque your head gaskets and manifold gaskets after engine break-in procedure, heads first. Check the endplay on your crankshaft and make sure it is not excessive, especially if itís a regrind. Your book will give you the process and specs. Plastic gauge your main and rod bearings before you lube them. Check your manufactures recommendations for specs. Use assembly lube on your main and rod bearings, bearing surface only not on the backside. Use medium strength thread locker on your damper bolt. If your crank is not threaded for a damper bolt drill and tap it or have it done. Properly torque your starter it may save your ring gear. Make sure your ring gear is not on backwards. Check starter and ring gear fit before you bolt your bell housing or trans up and install your engine. Some people will disagree but I like to put a small smear of assembly lube on every other cog on the starter ring gear or flywheel. Donít put a lot on just enough to film the gear. Put your thermostat in a pan of water and make sure it opens before the water boils. Buy new motor mounts if yours are in doubt at all. If you have exhaust donuts consider changing them, now is a good time because you can get to them before you in stall your engine. Re-torque exhaust donuts after your engine break in procedure. I am sure I have forgot a lot of things. Some of what I do may be controversial and therefore I recommend you use what you and others feel is right for you. I am not trying to tell you what to do just suggestions.

Bob
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:08 AM
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In addition to what's already been said:

Go crazy with warm soapy water washing the block. You can't have it too clean.

Double check that all the plugs that need to be in the block are there.

When doing the final installation of the rotating assembly make sure there are no tight spots. Spin the crank before installing the rods and pistons. It should rotate freely with very slight drag from the rear seal and lube that are on the bearings. Make sure about your ring end gaps. When you install the rods/pistons and have torqued them down you should be able to wiggle the rod journals around a little. If the journals don't move then something isn't right. Either the clearances are off or the cap is backwards or you're not using chamfered bearings if needed.

Check you oil pump pickup to pan clearance, it only takes a minute.

Also, any surfaces that you're going to use gasket sealer on should be wiped down with brake clean first to get rid of any oil that might be present. RTV won't stick to oil.
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:17 AM
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One thing I didn't see is about the intake. I don't know about fords, but for Chevy make sure that you use rtv silicone on the intake in the valleys.

And don't be scared to use that stuff on other gaskets and stuff like pan, valve covers, timing cover, ect. Some people will say "you don't need that, thats what the gaskets are for" but I was told by a old service mechanic that told me to "goop that full and make it squeeze out, because you don't want something coming back cause of a leak." So I use that same system on anything I do because I don't want to do it twice.

Maybe some one could say about the ford intake because I don't know

John
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:49 AM
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engine.

Some good info so far,,, some i don't agree with...


I would not ( and i do-not) soak the lifters... They will fill with oil and when you do the valve lash they will not pre-load correct... Since you all ready did it you will need to pay attention when you install the rockers. What will happen when you adjust the valves the rockers will push the valves open instead of the lifters pre-loading.. not a big problem you just need to let it sit over night for the oil to bleed out of the lifters so the valves close...before you start it..

Also do-not soak the rings... make sure they are clean. I use a white coffee filter and wax and grease remover the clean them. You will be shocked how dirty they are out of the box. Check every ring in it's bore for proper gap. When you are ready to install the pistons into the bores just spray the cylinder wall and the rings with WD-40... thats all you need no oil...

make sure you prime the engine before installing it in the car and check for oil out of all the rockers.

I personally mark every fastener after i torque it with a paint stick. That way you never get lost with what is tight and what is not.

clean,clean,clean.... make sure everything is clean,,,including both sides of the bearings, again i use coffee filters and wax and grease remover... Assembly lube only on the crankshaft side of the bearings none on the back sides..

You really need a way to check all the bearing clearances... I would use micrometers,,, but if nothing else plastigage works to find drastic problems..

I am working on getting a down loadable engine build sheet on my web site but it's nont ready yet... Send me your e-mail address and i'll send you the sheet with what i check...


Keith
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectjohn
One thing I didn't see is about the intake. I don't know about fords, but for Chevy make sure that you use rtv silicone on the intake in the valleys.

And don't be scared to use that stuff on other gaskets and stuff like pan, valve covers, timing cover, ect. Some people will say "you don't need that, thats what the gaskets are for" but I was told by a old service mechanic that told me to "goop that full and make it squeeze out, because you don't want something coming back cause of a leak." So I use that same system on anything I do because I don't want to do it twice.

Maybe some one could say about the ford intake because I don't know

John

That's a good way to plug up an oil pump. Seen many times.
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:26 PM
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Thank you Johnsongrass & K-star for making the corrections I was going to make. Never soak rings or pistons in oil and if you are going to use silicone or RTV use it sparingly.

T. Devitt
TNS Custom Engines
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:42 PM
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I go liberal on the RTV, but then I clean up the excess with some paint thinner on a rag- it keeps it looking nice, yet insures there are no leaks. I prefer the thinnest copper ehad gaskets possible, but that's really just a personal preferance. Indexing the plugs is cheap and easy, all it takes is a little time- not important to start an engine, but I'd do it when you have the free time to. To prime an oil pump some people pack it with vasoline, I just pour some oil into the closest plugged port (usually for an oil pressure gauge) and then disconnect the distributor and crank the starter untill you have some pressure- some say its too much stress on a starter, but as long as you're not being an idiot and don't use bargin-basement parts then its fine. Oh, and for break in, I run rotella diesel oil with EOS added in. It saves you form wiping lobes off the cam.

Finally after about 10,000 miles I start adding a small can of "Restore" at every oil change. Its designed for higher milage engines, but it really helps even the newer ones. And for what its worth my car runs a little better with about a half a cup of Marvel's Mystery Oil in the gas tank.
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:44 PM
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sealant

I personally have a deep hate for RTV.... If you could find more then a dab on my engines you would be lucky(excluding intake ends)...I developed this burning hatred when i was building late model engines... They would come back with it in the oil pick up, The oil galleys, smeared all over ever surface know to man...Man my neck is red thinking about it!!!!!

If the mounting surfaces are cleaned proper and the correct gaskets are used you don't need RTV in any part of the engine...(except intake ends)


Keith
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Old 10-25-2006, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k-star
I personally have a deep hate for RTV.... If you could find more then a dab on my engines you would be lucky(excluding intake ends)...I developed this burning hatred when i was building late model engines... They would come back with it in the oil pick up, The oil galleys, smeared all over ever surface know to man...Man my neck is red thinking about it!!!!!

If the mounting surfaces are cleaned proper and the correct gaskets are used you don't need RTV in any part of the engine...(except intake ends)


Keith
amen.....seen too many motors die with a pickup tube full of silicone. When you do the endrails..dimple the deck of the block & the corresponding surface of the intake manifold with a small punch. Not too deep, just enough to give it some "tooth" for the sillycone to grip to. BTW...ultra black works real well for this application. I also apply a small bead of Hylomar around the intake ports, & a very thin bead of silicone around the water jackets
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:22 PM
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Hey Poncho62 Thank You

Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
STUFF LIKE:
What to watch out for when setting the cam in and HOW TOO ?
Use lots of cam lube...Watch that you don't knick a cam bearing when putting it in.

What to watch out for when setting the heads on the motor and HOW TOO ?
No sealer on head gaskets. A little oil on the head bolt threads. Torque them in the proper order going up in torque 3 times.

What sealer to use and BEST GASKETS to use and HOW TOO install them ?
Many good gaskets...Felpro are among the best......Don't overtighten gaskets, especially oil pan.
Hey Poncho62

I will fellow you instructions and thanks for the heads-up.
Its guys like you who make this website GREAT.

GOD BLESS

Schooner
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Old 10-25-2006, 03:41 PM
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you are welcome, but read the rest of the thread too, lots of good suggestions...............rhose just came off the top of my head......the more you know the better.
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Old 10-25-2006, 04:04 PM
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Tios

There are a lot of good tips being posted for your benefit and anyone else that's interested. I would like to add my 2 cents worth and that is anytime you install a part that has anything to do with movement in the engine, after it is installed, turn it. That is, for every valve, piston or whatever that goes in, turn the engine back and forth to make sure everything is perfect.
Jim
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