Trouble installing half quarters, need advice - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2006, 05:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boardman, Ohio
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Trouble installing half quarters, need advice

I have a 1971 Chevelle. I am putting on the lower half rear quarters. The car is in pretty decent shape, but I want to do it right and just not patch and bondo. I have put one quarter on, and am going to redo it, it is going to need to much bondo to look right. When I put the quarters on, should I overlap the metals. and if so, should I put the new metal behind or in front of the old metal? I tried to weld the metal with the ends butted together and it did not work out well. And if I do overlap the metal, should I tap in the welded area? or just grind it downn and use filler to cover it? And do I have to use fiberglass first over the welded joint? or can I use bondo only if the weld is pretty neat and doesn't need much? thanks for any info -Chris

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2006, 06:49 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: 99 soft tail standard I painted
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: N.C.
Age: 35
Posts: 222
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi Chris,

I allways like to butt weld panels together.The trick with butt welding two panels,is to weld a little at a time,and let the metal cool to not get warpage.If you have a 2 foot weld to make,spot it once at on end,once at the other end,and once in the middle.Let those welds cool,and connect the dots,takeing care not to get the metal too hot.If thatdoesnt sound like your cup of tea,yo0u can lap weld them.To lap weld them,you will need a flange tool.You can get a flange tool at Northern Tool,or in almost any tool magazine,they aren to expencive.I like to think of lap welding as roofing a house.I flange the lower piece,and punch a hole about every 2 inches,then rosette weld the holes on each end,then the center,and connect the dots again.The flange tool usualy has a punch on the other side of the flang.I hope I helped,and if you need any pics,I could take some and mail them to you,or post them here.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2006, 09:37 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
I'd also go with butt welds. One of our club members has his 34 Plymouth at a popular paint shop and we have been going by every Saturday morning to check on it. In the shop is a 68 RS/SS Camaro that I have been watching also. This Camaro was in pretty sad shape and needed 2 rear quarters and the panel below the trunk in addition to a total floor. The guys at the shop separated the quarter panels on the crown line at the top of the quarters, just cut it off with a high speed grinder. They then tacked the new quarter on with welds about every three to four inches. They allowed enough time to cool and when the day was done they had both quarters fully welded. Followed that with grinding away the excess weld and went over the entire new quarters with a 36 grit DA pad. If I had not seen the quarters put on that Camaro I would have not been able to tell, it was amazing.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2006, 11:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boardman, Ohio
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey, thanks for the replys. I'm going to pick up a flange tool tommorow. I think I'm just going to try lap welding the body parts. The butt welding I did was really bad, and since I'm not a good welder ( using a small lincoln mig) and probably don't have the best welder for the job, I'm going to take the easy route so I don't screw it up anymore then I already did.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2006, 11:50 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,913
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
KFX, Are you using a MIG or Flux core? It is hard to butt weld with gasless wire, a MIG is a lot easier and a lot cleaner no matter which method you choose. If you lap weld you will find that it is easier to do without warping than butt welding and unless you are doing a really high quality resto lap welding should not hurt a thing. Be sure and seal the lap from behind so that moisture cannot get between the lapped edges where it can cause rust. As the others have already said take you time don't weld too much at once and give the metal time to cool between welds. This is one area where impatience will cause a lot of problems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2006, 07:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boardman, Ohio
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey Oldred, I'm using a lincol mig welder with flux cored wire, the welder seems a little hot, I have it turned all the way down and have the wire feed as low as it will go without locking up ( doesn't seem to be the best mig machine, borrowed it from a friend, it's the base line lincoln mig) it's gasless. I'm definetley going to try the lap welding, seems like it should be a lot easier
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2006, 07:52 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,913
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Ok you would do a lot better with a MIG (M-etal I-nert G-as) instead of that fluxcore welder if one is available, if possible use .023 solid wire with C/25 shielding gas and there will be a world of difference in how well it welds. If you have to use the flux core it can be done but it is more difficult and will require more grinding to clean up. I would use the lap method for sure in this case since it will be easier just make sure that both panels are super clean with no paint, rust, dirt or grease on them. (some primers and weld through coatings are ok)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2006, 09:44 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,434
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,323 Times in 1,148 Posts
I am with red, the flux core makes it pretty tough. Butt welding with flux core would be pretty taxing for anyone so don't feel bad.

Here is how I see the whole butt weld vs lap weld, what is the "Bestest" way for you? If you do a quality lap weld it will do the job and is not incorrect at all.

Evil laid it out nicely for you. One thing that people will make a mistake with is using the whole patch panel they buy. You don't always need the whole thing so don't use it unless it makes sense. If you can use the whole thing and weld it near a body line to add support that is fine. But if you can weld nearer the lower part of the quarter you may save yourself a lot of warping.

Where exactly is the rust and how big are the panels you using?

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:18 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,707
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Be carefull, a flanging tool can sometimes warp the panel more than welding, it tends to straighten crowned areas. I like to butt weld whenever possible.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



« wet bodo | Sick »

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
need advice/ tips on installing air bags in a 1952 chevy coupe with stock suspension Kuztmchev52 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 7 03-07-2006 12:52 PM
Advice on installing carrier dpjim2 Transmission - Rearend 4 02-18-2006 03:46 PM
Advice on installing gears and posi in 7.5 rear? Fantasyridesprez Transmission - Rearend 9 12-27-2005 08:42 PM
Installing powertrax trouble 66novaht Transmission - Rearend 1 02-26-2005 02:24 AM
Trouble Installing Oil Rings 57Chevyman Engine 4 04-10-2002 03:30 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.