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Trunk Hinge Springs 41 Chrysler

4K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  123pugsy 
#1 · (Edited)
I had my body chemically stripped with the trunk hinges/springs still in place.

I just put the lid back on and the springs will no longer push it up to full open.

I did close each hinge individually when I was hitting them with primer.

Anyone know if they need to be reset or adjusted some where or did they get hydrogen embrittlement and lose there power?:drunk:







 
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#5 ·
Its true acid dipping is not friendly to alum alloys and spring steel. If you have an electrolysis stripper near you, they can handle either one, and it pulls the rust out from under brackets and seams pretty good also. I know of three for sure around the US, Toledo, Cinncinatti, and Portland Oregon. This panel has been sitting in the house for a year and a half after electrolysis stripping.:nono: :spank: You can see in the bottom where a rust pinhole was welded shut, and just a few traces of flash rust. There isn't much access to the inside of this for them to rinse good, and that is why I took to them instead of acid stripping. The cost is double.
 
#12 ·
I forget exactly how it works but there is some places where friction could be at play. It's like after I had my hood hinges powder coated and they weren't working as freely as they should and Henry told me to lube them, duh, they instantly worked like a charm.

Brian
 
#17 ·
They should have told you when you dropped it off. Burning the lead off is just a side effect, the real reason for the over is to burn the paint and undercoating off. The lead doesn't even come off with an electrolysis stripper, or at least not the one I use.

If I'm not mistaken, I think that baking the effects out of the springs has to be done at a controlled temp and time ---- timing to get in the oven, temperature in the over, and time spent in the oven, and it takes a lot of juice to get that oven up to 350 degrees. Even though they use 800 to burn the paint off.
 
#21 ·
There are different ways to remove paint, but someone mentioned an oven, and I know my chemical stripper place has an oven to do it. They slowly bring the temperature up to 800 degrees and then slowly bring it back down to room temp, and the result is no metal damage, but it is hot enough to burn everything off. Then they bring it out and rinse all the stuff off and put it in the chemical for derusting, and that chemical batch is also heated, but just a little for quicker action.

They should have told you that everything needs to be completely disassembled
 
#32 ·
(copied)
Heat treating the annealed stock requires first getting the part red hot and water quenching it. That is the hardening part of the heat treatment. Then you clean off the scale and temper it by heating at around 450-500 degrees F. to a uniform blue color and let it cool.

The guy that did that owes you a spring job
 
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