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Old 11-01-2002, 10:09 PM
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Post Trunk idea

Ok let me see if I get the image thing right before I post my plans.

Woohoo, the image worked.

Anyway I am working on fixing up my 71 cutlass. The trunk is where alot of rust is and I came up with the idea you see above. It is not quite to scale and may be a little off but hopefully you can get the basic idea. What I want to do is to add some storage compartments for tools and stuff. And I was thinking how nice some good wood work would look in the trunk.

Where you see yellow on the drawing above is what I thought of first. There is a little area behind the wheelwell that is basically wasted space. Especially the part that dips below the rest of the trunk floor. Granted it is not much space, but I thought I could put it to some positive use. I would use cardboard to make a template to transfer onto some wood and cut it out with my jigsaw. One thing I am wondering is what woods would look good? (say that five times fast) I have some pine and can stain it, but would some maple or other hardwood look a lot better stained? Also I was thinking maybe brass hardware for the hinges, handles, and latches. Or perhaps some chrome. The door would be L shaped. One concern is it is right next to the body so some sort of insulation or protection for both the tools and the exterior body would probably be a good idea, but it also has to not hold moisture. I was thinking maybe having the drivers, ratchets and other longer tools in holes in the base And then when the door opens up the sockets are on it. I am sure I could use some socket holders to keep the sockets in place, but I want something that'll really hold them and not look bad. It doesn't have to be show quality as I just don't have the skill or desire to do that right now, but I would want to show off my work.

Ok I have to replace the floor of the trunk in the wings where you see the red spots. And the trunk supports go down about 3-4 inches. SO I was thinking I could recover that space. Instead of welding a panel in the floor, I would do one outside the regular trunk and that would leave me with this little nook to work with. If I made the door the full length of the area between the wheel and the rear lights then it would not open straight up like I had hoped. I checked and the trunk is not deep enough so it will have to open to the side. I would do all the pieces in matching wood. And all the hinges and other hardware. I was thinking about sinking the handle and latch a little so there is less sticking out in the trunk. I just thought about using hidden hinges. Either that or have the hinges right up against the other tool box. It would make more sense to have it open that direction. I was thinking maybe putting a bottle jack and tire iron in one of these compartments. Maybe carpet the inside to match the trunk. Perhaps the same sort of padding I use on the other compartment.

On the trunk floor I am going to finish the rust conversion and then use rubber undercoating. Then eventually I will get some carpet over it. What would be a good carpet for use in a trunk. Preferably something cheap, help me out Halloweenking. I have seen some good indoor/outdoor carpet, but I don't know if I have ever seen it in black. As for padding the compartment near the outside, I wonder if the black tool box padding would be a good idea.

I am planning on doing both sides so it will match. I am just wondering what people think and looking for suggestions on materials. On concern I have is wood holding moisture near the body. Another concern is mounting the latches on the outer box. Would some sort of epoxy work either for the latches or mounting wood to mount the latches to? If I could just figure all this little stuff out, it could look great.

[ November 02, 2002: Message edited by: Wmarden ]</p>

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Old 11-01-2002, 10:46 PM
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Decide to can the plan man? I'm impatiently waiting to help or at least read it, don't mind me

HK
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Old 11-01-2002, 10:58 PM
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That blew my mind, but I get the jist of it, you want to build a trunk tool box out of wood. The wood I would use is either any species of oak or maple (birdseye mape would look great with a white car) As for holding moisture close to the body, cover your wood with a clear from por15 called pelucid, its made for wood and fiberglass. As for the hinges and latches, why don't you want to use screws or nails. If you have your heart set on epoxy get a two step epoxy like quick cure 5 or my favorite Rapid Cure by MAS epoxies. Now if you have some other questions you'd like to ask one by one I'd be happy to help, but that whole speil I can't grasp (my fault not yours)Hope this helped a bit.

HK
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Old 11-01-2002, 11:10 PM
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Well I don't want to mount screws through the exterior. I don't care about the trunk floor, but having screws poke outside would look really cheesy.

I went and did some measurements. I think the outer box can be about 7-8 inches tall as measured from the regular trunk floor. Maybe 12-13 to the bottom of the cubby hole. This puts it even with the ridge in the back where all the lighting hardware is at. And it still leave a decent amount of space for really wide packages. As for the one mounted in the floor I have closer to 5 inches of depth and maybe a square section of 18 inches long by about 8 inches wide.

It took me a while to write down all my idea. And I did get up a couple of times and look in the trunk to refine my idea.
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Old 11-01-2002, 11:23 PM
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Well your idea is pretty good, but honestly I wouldn't make them something permanent and I wouldn't fuse them to the interior of the exsterior panels, for one if you get a bit of agresive driving going one of those tools could smack the inside of the 1/4 and make a nasty dent. If I were you I would make a fiberglass, wood or sheetmetal removable boxes that you can mount to the floor in that space that would keep everything from banging around on the sheetmetal, and also give you the option of taking the boxes out an up to the front of your car while in use of the tools and such. Fiberglass ones would be pretty easy the make, sheetmetal ones a bit harder, but I could tell you how to make them maby even show you through the same manner you posted this. If you already said something about ho to get the sheetmetal safe I appologize, but reading long descriptions and many words isn't easy for me.

HK
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Old 11-01-2002, 11:36 PM
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I'll think about what you have said. Originally I was thinking about the floor mounted boxes being removeable. I was going to have them hinge on the side somehow, but I looked and saw it would not be able to open up all the way in the trunk. I may still figure out a way to use this space.

Below are some labeled images that my make it a bit clearer. I know I can be more concise.
a. is the handle
b. is the wheelwell and drive shaft area
c. is the hinges
d. is the area below the trunk floor
e. is just the lid itself



1. is the raised area that the driveshaft is below
2. is the wheel well itself
3. is the area where I want to build the box next to the 1/4 panel.
4. this is the raised area in back where the lights and all are at.
5. is the main trunk floor
6. is the area where I have to patch and want to put another tool box. This is where I would put sheetmetal on the outside instead of inside.

There, clear as mud
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Old 11-01-2002, 11:59 PM
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Thanks for the clarification shots, I got the jist before and still think your ideas will work. Having the 1/4 panel boxes removable will help much, I have simular space in my T/A and I think with the right latch system (something like ski-to-boot) a removable fiberglass (prefferably) or sheetmetal pair of boxes would be really cool, not only easier to make and install, but easier to use as tool boxes. No damage to the 1/4's, still have ample trunk room, more in needed do to the ability to remove and or just relocate. because there is that little "ditch" to hide the bottom of the box in I think it would be really cool. I know I taint helpin just agravatin, but I'm a beast what can I say, once I have something to chew on you can't take it away without fear of loosing an appendage.

HK
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Old 11-05-2002, 10:45 PM
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I noticed another wasted area in the trunk. Over the wheel well but below the rear deck there is a little space. But because of the trunk lid hinge supports the space is a little harder to utilize. I am working on an idea for putting the bottle jack there. But one that looks a little better than just some bungie cords holding it in. Still not quite sure what to put there.

I have used rust converter on just about all of the trunk floor I will not be replacing. I am going to spray some undercoating I already have on it. Then eventually I will put carpet on top of that. But at least it makes it look like I am making progress.
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Old 11-05-2002, 10:53 PM
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Why not use some mounts for those in car fire exstinguisher on thatbottle jack, should work just fine, may need to be shortend a bit, but should look better thand bungi cords and you can mount it to your wheel well

HK
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:06 AM
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Thanks, I had thought about mounting a fire extinguisher back there(not the greatest place for one, but I was just trying to think of stuff that could fit), but hadn't really thought about the mounts at all much less using them for a bottle jack. I just hadn't made the connection.

Another thought i just had that would be less convenient is hose clamps. But they would be such a pain to loosen in the rain where most flats occurr

I'll probably ask my brother in law to look at work, he works at a scrap yard. They get all kinds of junk, not just cars. Probably could get a few of those mounts for just about nothing.
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Old 11-06-2002, 01:18 AM
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Happy to help. Since you could get them for almost nothing get two and mount your jack on one side and use the other side with the same mounts to mount a quart of oil. Buy a quart can with a screw on top, you can find them in paint or hobby shops, or use an old clean brake fluid bottle, fill either with oil and you have an exstra quart for when ever you need it. I've(as well as many others) also bought some new clean rectangle gallon steel cans from the paintshop and use them for water and gas and mounted them to the rear of the seat support/trunk wall in the trunk to have an exstra gallon in case you get overheated or run out of gas. If your going to have it all, why not have it ALL

HK
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Old 11-06-2002, 05:31 AM
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well, for what it's worth, i have a apair of pennies to throw in as well. One suggestion would be to combine #6 and #3 in the last picture you posted and make just 2 large tool boxes. I would have the top of them lay flosh with the wheel wells and maybe fabricate, or "try to" in my case, an L shaped member that would mount directly to the wheel wells that would cover the top and inner sides wells and the boxes and square (or round)them off to make them look slike a solid piece. maybe fasten them to the top of the wheel well with a pair of those spring loaded hood latches that people use to hold down 'glass hoods (sorry, dunno what they are called.. you turn them about 90░ and they pop up, then push down and turn 90░ the other way and they latch). that way you have 2 boxes that have a prety decent capacity and you don't have to worry about how the boxes themselves look since they will have a nice looking "curtain", possibly made out of a nicer wood if you want that look. after all, who wants to have to worry about getting greese/oil/tranny fluid/etc on their toolbox?
EDIT -- another cover idea would be what they did for spare tires for a while, just lay the carpet over it and don't fasten the carpet down. that wouldn't look nearly as good IMO, but i'm not sure what plans for this car are... [/EDIT]

a suggestion for mounting the tool boxes may not be practical, but an idea i just had. look for a pair (or more?) of powerful magnets similar to those used by unmarked police cars to hold their bubble lights on. they are also used by pizza delizery guys to hold their cool little "Dominos Pizza" lights onto their cars. i'm not sure where you could find somehting like that, but if it can hold the things down when they are doing 90, they shouldn't have much problem holding the tool boxes in place in your trunk. maybe a couple of speaker magnets in each would do the trick?

if you like that idea, but don't want to mess with trying to figure out how to get these magnets to let go i have a few ideas that could be good... some easy and maybe a bit 'ghetto' others pretty trick.. lemme know if you are interrested.

as for how to old down the sockets, i have an idea on that one too, but the details would depend on hoiw you are making the boxes themselves. if out of wood like the initial plan, you could take an extra piece of wood and drill a hole for each socket (i know.. lotsa work...) and seperate that from the cover or side of the box with a couple pieces of dowel. slip each socket into it's hole then you can use a rather simple method to hold them in. my idea was a bar of metal (perhaps brass to match the rest of the metal?) I can see a few ways of doing this, but basically put a hinge on one side of the bar and a latching mechanism on the other and attach it so that when it is latched down it covers the top of the sockets, effectively holding them in their holes. that may be a bit more work then you intended, but it would look prety cool if done right.

suggestions aside, i love the ideas. i'm just throwing out some other possibilities in case you decided you liked one of them better.

EDIT -- I also loved HK's idea of a gallon (or qt, or whaever is appropriate) of each fluid in a bottle.. i basically do that, but i just throw the bottles of each in my trunkj cuz i tend to use them too often :p (the tranny/power steering fluid and water at least... just can't seem to find the last of these stupid leaks... i will definately have to rig up a little something to hold them like that when i finally get this engine runing well enough and start woking on aesthetics.[/EDIT]

LOL... sorry for the really long post.. ideas like this happen to be my weak spot :p

[ November 06, 2002: Message edited by: Miststlkr ]</p>
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Old 11-06-2002, 05:38 AM
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hmm.. must have clicked "post" twice. sorry.

[ November 06, 2002: Message edited by: Miststlkr ]</p>
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Old 11-07-2002, 11:11 AM
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Another idea for retaining the jack would be to do the same as alot of vehicle manufacturers do factory , weld a couple of resonable solid mounts with a slight lip at the top a bit furthur apart than the length of the bottle jack , compress the jack ,slide it between the two plates , couple of pumps and its secure should just be able to hand turn the release to remove when needed
Saves having to undo clamps

Cheers
Dale.
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