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Old 02-15-2011, 10:31 PM
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trying to choose right valvetrain setup...

hey everyone this is my first post here, i have read tons of posts on this site and see that most of you (haha) are very helpful in choosing engine components due to experience, etc..

lets just start by saying this is the first BBC i have done... just getting into this world of big V8s. I have a 454 (.060" over casting 14015445) with forged keith black pistons (-18cc dome), forged rods and cast steel crank, i am currently picking out all the valvetrain components and am getting tons of different opinions, and would appreciate more before i make a choice. I have the large oval 049 heads, completely bare, sitting at a machine shop for new guides, and possible larger valve/pocket porting job.

I am putting this engine in a 72 C10 SWB, and hope to (eventually) convert it to 4WD. I'm building this truck for off-road fun as well as turning heads and the occasional burnout

Up until today, i was looking at the 60202 cam from Lunati, but the guy at the machine shop is telling me to go with a comp cam, and says i can save money by going with stock valve springs and stock rocker arms and such. I was looking at about .540" of lift and am reading that some stock springs are good up until .600. Also, I have been looking at Comp Cams website and am leaning toward the XE262H, but then started hearing for more low end torque, you want high lift with shorter duration and also read people complaining about valvetrain noise.

Please, any valvetrain and cam advice is much appreciated, i'm not looking to rev past 6000, its going to be coupled to a TH400, and im hoping to get about 550 HP / 575 TQ, and looking for great throttle response, as well as low-end and mid-range torque. Im shooting for around 9.5:1 CR, dual plane performer RPM intake manifold.


Also.... hydraulic roller or hydraulic flat tappet? Longevity of the engine is key also, i dont want to tear into this motor again until at least 100k miles are on it...

Thanks guys

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Old 02-16-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bridfi
...hydraulic roller or hydraulic flat tappet? Longevity of the engine is key also, i dont want to tear into this motor again until at least 100k miles are on it...
Use a hydraulic roller cam w/NEW SPRINGS that match the cam you're using.

If the heads have exhaust valve rotators on them, they need to be removed and spring 'spacer seats' used in their place. The rotator eliminators are made to take up the 0.300" height of the original rotators.

I would use 0.080" wall pushrods, too. Stock OD so you can use the existing guide plates as long as they are stock. Depending on how much lift the cam has, you may need long slot rockers if you use stamped steel rockers.
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