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Old 05-05-2008, 12:19 AM
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trying to get panel straight

Still working on getting my hood flat and smooth, but am getting very fustrated. I've applied two coats of urethane fill primer, guide coated and blocked with 180, found some highs and lows which I took care of with filler, there were also alot of spots where the guide coat remained kind of like inter connected leopard spots all across the hood. I checked with a straight edge and it was hard to see if any, any light from under the straight edge where the guide coat remained, so I figured I would spray two more coats of primer. I did this and started blocking again with 180 grit excited to see a smooth straight panel, but damn almost little or no improvement. Its just frustrating when I spray the thing with primer it looks great but then turns to crap with a guide coat and some sanding. Should I try another round of primer... or......?? Skim coating the whole hood seems like a huge task!!!

I am new to body work and I know that this stage takes and should take a reasonable amount of time to get right. but it feels like I am spinning my wheels...

thanks for any help you can provide
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:56 AM
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One day it will be 2ndnature you'll see ...

Be carefull not to stop and change the sand stroke direction in the same place more than once, it will cut deeper there and create a low spot followed by what your getting and setting off this kinda chain of events.

Hang in there get a little advice from everybody and it will get there..

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Old 05-05-2008, 07:43 AM
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if a sheet metal part like a hood is basically in "junk" condition to begin with...

there's only so much improvement that primer can do...

(we can't see what you are fighting so....)

carry it to a local body shop and ask for a condition evaluation...

you may or may not be beating your head against a wall....

(only experienced eyes and hands can tell you)

think positive....
usually the hood is the biggest "flat" area and is warped worst and they are usually the worst PIA part to block down....
(usually get's a bit easier on the "curved" parts)

time and patience!!!
(I spent almost 2 full days prepping a Chevelle hood recently...because it was going to be a gloss black show car...)
the time you put in now will be rewarded by many many compliments over the years to come....
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:15 AM
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Biggest challenge with a hood is sanding without pushing to hard.
Try less pressure and coarser paper.
On a tough one like that, I'd opt to sand the first primer application
with 80 grit, reprime then 150 to 180.
Then reprime and 400. That may be excessive but it works.
Sanding real coarse first will let you straighten it with
min. pressure, that's the key.

Remember:
Coarse paper straightens it,
fine paper smooths it.
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:13 PM
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Sounds like the primer went on a little heavy with orange peel. This makes it hard to block straight and get all the imperfections out.

My guess is you're not letting the tools do the work - ie applying too much pressure while blocking.

What kind of blocks are you using? Length, material, hand or air powered?

Panels can get warped to the point that all you can do is skim coat it to get it straight - I always opt for another panel if available if it gets to this point.
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:02 PM
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the primer did go on heavy with orange peel, what is the orange peel like texture a result of? to much pressure?

I am using a 16'' long board by hand with dry paper. I think I am going to buy and try a dura block also, from what I've read it should help on the large flat surfaces that have a slight curve or slope to them.


thanks
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:51 PM
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if you are getting orange peel try to hold the gun down tighter to the panel,
also reduce the amount of material with the fluid knob. you should be spraying on nice wet coats with plenty of flash time between. Just curious what brand of primer are you using? If yo want it really staight poly prime it and block it with 80 before you use a urathane surfacer.I agree with JC, you need more agressive paper, start with 80, the coarser paper acts more like a file and cuts the primer in more of a plane. you shouldnt be pushing too hard, let the paper do the work. cross your strokes and keep a consistant motion, kinda like the panel extends past the edges. i hope this makes sense, good luck.With body work the more you do it the better it gets.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:15 PM
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Will agree with most of the replys with the course grit paper that is the key to getting a panel flat especially something like a hood or deck lid. Start with the 80 grit then move to the finer grits just to remove the sand scratches AFTER it is flat. It will take forever and a day to get a big flat hood truly flat with 180 grit paper.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:47 PM
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Be SURE to CHECK just how FLAT that Durablock is.
I've NEVER bought one that was truley FLAT and some were just awfull.
I exchanged 2 of their long boards till I got one that was "close".
Use a thick FLAT piece of steel or thick glass and some 80gt roll PSA paper to check it with by doing some pass's on the paper and check the pattern the paper is making to SEE how it looks.
Make some strokes,check it,flip it around 180* and make some more,check and keep this up till you get a uniform pattern on the sanding bottom.
You'll NEVER get ANYTHING straight with warped boards.
I got a post someplace here on how to do this. I'll see if I can find it.

Sanding blocks
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