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Old 01-23-2011, 05:43 PM
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TUFF DAWG ENGINES/ D&J Machine?

Does any one have any comments GOOD and BAD about TUFF DAWG ENGINES/ D&J Machine? Seen some bad reviews and some good. I'm sure these guys have sold tons of engines and of course youre going to get mixed opinions but would like to hear from this Board.

Thank you

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Old 01-24-2011, 12:01 AM
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Since I live here in Phoenix here's my take,they have been in business here about 40 years you don't stay around that long if you are not good at what you do.I have bought parts from them and the guys are always helpful and good on price.I would recommend you pay a little extra and buy your engine with the "turn key" option that way it is already broke in for you.It is my opinion the guys that are whining did not,break in is critical with the recent changes in oils as some crate motors are non-roller and that needs to be taken into account.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:59 AM
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Thank you for the good info. I appreciate you taking the time to post
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:38 PM
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I have 5000 miles on my Tuff Dawg L31 Vortec. Lifters were ping a little, but have sense been fixed with the recommended 5000 mile valve adjustment. They to install flat tappet cams in their motors so you will need add a ZDDP additive.
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoove
I have 5000 miles on my Tuff Dawg L31 Vortec. Lifters were ping a little, but have sense been fixed with the recommended 5000 mile valve adjustment. They to install flat tappet cams in their motors so you will need add a ZDDP additive.


I've been hearing lots of problems from machine shops with using the 'new' SN oils in flat tappet engines. Research Mobil 1 and some other sites and they say if the ZDDP is over 800 you'll be fine. Moile 1 is over and most of the better synthetics. Couldn't find the spec on Penz or Castrol. Most that are real high ZDDP say 'off road use'. They mess up the street rodders gas now their oil...What gives?? I'm using Mobil1..it's also recommended for flat tappet Viper.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:28 AM
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Just to clarify....do not do a break-in on a new engine or even just a cam/lifter change with any type of synthetic oil, Mobil 1 included. After the break-in procedure with a GOOD break-in oil drive the car 500 or so miles then drain the petroleum based oil and change the filter. Then if you wish you can fill with your choice of synthetic or a good grade petroleum oil with a high value of ZDDP. Even Amsoil recommends using a dino based oil for break-in.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:13 AM
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Called these guys about there rebuilt l31 vortec engine and it's $2495 for this motor but they put a flat tappet cam in it, ***? For $2700 they build one with a roller cam, whats the point of the vortec besides the heads if they put a flat tappet cam in it?
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
Just to clarify....do not do a break-in on a new engine or even just a cam/lifter change with any type of synthetic oil, Mobil 1 included. After the break-in procedure with a GOOD break-in oil drive the car 500 or so miles then drain the petroleum based oil and change the filter. Then if you wish you can fill with your choice of synthetic or a good grade petroleum oil with a high value of ZDDP. Even Amsoil recommends using a dino based oil for break-in.
Amzoil recommends Mineral for first 3000 miles.

Last edited by snkbyt; 04-04-2011 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:14 PM
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"Dino" is slang for petroleum.....from Amzoil website "That is why we recommend running the factory installed petroleum oil for the first 500 miles"
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75chev4x4
Called these guys about there rebuilt l31 vortec engine and it's $2495 for this motor but they put a flat tappet cam in it, ***? For $2700 they build one with a roller cam, whats the point of the vortec besides the heads if they put a flat tappet cam in it?
Uhhh, because vortec heads work just as well with flat tappet cams? They don't know the difference between style of lifter.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:19 PM
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Tuff Dawg Engines

I just ordered the Ford 302/280hp Turnkey. I have been reading the reviews recently and hoping i get what i payed for. This engine is a true Turnkey and i sure do hope all is well after a coulple of thousand miles. I will not be driving it hard but also want to have a little fun. Mostly just from the house to the shows. I should have never read the reviews

Have a good one!
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:11 PM
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Heres a chance to protect that new engine,visit the Valvoline website there is a rebate you can download for a case of VR-1 Racing Synthetic,you must purchase it before 5/30/11.FREE is good
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:18 PM
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Unless Valvoline has aded a new product that I am not aware of, VR-1 is NOT synthetic. VR-1 is dino based racing oil with less detergent and high ZDDP. Synpower is their synthetic branding.

Edit: After checking it out, it looks like they DO offer a VR 1 branding in synthetic now. My mistake!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
Heres a chance to protect that new engine,visit the Valvoline website there is a rebate you can download for a case of VR-1 Racing Synthetic,you must purchase it before 5/30/11.FREE is good
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:28 PM
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I was just on their website...they show the regular gray bottle of VR-1 dino oil and then they show a blue bottle of "Valvoline Racing Synthetic VR-1"....must be new.
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cool rockin daddy
Uhhh, because vortec heads work just as well with flat tappet cams? They don't know the difference between style of lifter.
My point was why put a flat tappet cam in a block that was made for a roller cam, seems kind of cheap to me. I an aware that a vortec head will work with a variety of cams.
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