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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 05:58 PM
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Ok, I will open them a little and see what happens.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 06:07 PM
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Just for fun, rotate the distributor to 36* at idle then see what kind of vacuum you can achieve in drive, you may be able to lower the primary and secondary throttle plate to a more friendly level and work with the 4 corner idle screws. If it gets better at this point we'll get the dist. To 26* degrees initial with bushings from 4 seconds flat then crane adjustable vacuum advance for the 10* advance at idle to make 36 at idle without locking it out.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 06:33 PM
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My initial timing is as high as I can run it, any higher and it will not turn over when it is hot.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 06:58 PM
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Use the idle-eze instead of drilling holes in the butterflies. Drilling the butterflies is almost never needed in a case where the carb is sized correctly to the application. So do not do that at this stage. The setting was 2 turns out to start, add to that if need be.

You are on the right track by looking at the other ways to provide additional air to the idle circuit, like opening the secondaries a bit- but ultimately it is very likely going to require tuning the idle feed restrictors and/or air bleeds to get it to come around.

But for you sake, hold off on drilling the blades!

BTW, did you talk to the tech that Tech @ BG mentioned in post #17? I hope you all got together- it sounds to me like they're sincere in wanting to follow through and help you get dialed in- so give them a chance if you haven't been in contact yet, and ask more questions if you have been in touch. You have their attention on this, so take full advantage of their knowledge and willingness to help.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 07:17 PM
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I did talk to the tech guy and he said to start over with the factory settings which is what I have done. I did get it to idle by cracking open the back and then turning the front idle screw in quite a bit so now the butterflys are not set correctly and are way up the transition slot. The Idle-Eze still does nothing, No matter which direction I turn it or how much it does nothing. My vacuum reading is up to 9 inches and it seems like it is not smoking as bad out the exhaust. I just wish I could put the butterflys where they belong and still get it to idle or at least stay running but unless they are turned way up the transition slot it will not idle at all.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:32 PM
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I wonder if there is some kind of obstruction to the idle eze making it not work?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 07:35 PM
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I have no idea but it does nothing. I even watched the vacuum gage while turning the IdleEze and it never changed at all.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:01 PM
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I have a 650 Mighty demon that was totaly unresponsive to any adjustments & was extremely rich, even going down the road. While I was looking at it one day trying to think of something to try I just started checking my intake bolts, just routine checking for loose bolts. I snugged them down & then set back into adjusting the carb. I was then able to adjust the carb. I guess it was just loose enough to cause a problem.
this may not apply in your situation, I did not have a problem with the engine not wanting to idle.
I now check the fasteners on the engine more often. it wont cost anything to try it.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:17 PM
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I agree, it does sound like you might have an air leak somewhere. Check all bolts and disconnect all vacuum lines from the motor and plug the ports. Then see if that makes a difference.

Also on the carb thing, you can have up to .060 of the transfer slot showing. Just try to equal out the front and rear throttle blades so they have equal amounts of transfer slot showing.

Also what does your carb gasket look like? Does it have the four holes or is it open in the middle??
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2010, 09:03 PM
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I will double check the intake bolts and the carb gasket is open in the middle.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 04:51 AM
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I dont think there is anything wrong with opening the secondaries a little more and dropping the primaries like you did.. Its the primaries that you dont want to open to far or you'll start drawing off the main circuit and that will further enhance your rich idle condition.. Mine is currently set-up the same way (secondaires are open a little more than the primaries) and thats where it runs best.. Its enough to get me by as long as I dont idle around to much.. I personally dont think you have a vacuum leak because your vacuum reading at idle is right on par with everyone else that runs this cam.. I have a steady 8hg of vacuum at idle so it sounds like were in the same ball park, I just wish my new IFR's were here so I could give you some results.. My stock IFR's are a .036 and I do have a set of .034 here so maybe I'll install those today just to see if there is a positive result. I was hoping to install some .032 but as mentioned, they are on backorder..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 07:02 AM
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What size power valve are you using?

The idle-eze or secondaries opened a bit should give instant results. Either should make your rpm go up at least 500-1000rpm and cause you to close your primary side.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redride
Ok I pulled the carb and put it back to the origional jeds and put the power valve back in along with setting the butterflys where they needed to be up the transition slot along with setting the Idle-Eze at 1 1/2. Same problem, it will not idle at all and turning the Idle-Eze does nothing.
Something ain't right. You need to get to the bottom of why the carb does not respond to turning the idle-eze. There should be a definite change when it is adjusted, so if there is no change, there's a problem.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Something ain't right. You need to get to the bottom of why the carb does not respond to turning the idle-eze. There should be a definite change when it is adjusted, so if there is no change, there's a problem.
Mine is the same way and I have verified and re-verified everything.. I even pulled and re-installed my intake, plugged every vacuum port and still no reponse with the Idle-eze just like the OP.. I also have my timing locked out at 38 and use a cut-off switch for starting it. I am assuming the rich idle conditon is effecting the reponse of the idle-eze because I can turn it from one extreme to the other with no results at all and I have read the same thing on other forums too (only when they have a overly rich idle)..
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 09:03 AM
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I misspoke when I said there has to be a change when the IE is adjusted. I should have said that if the A/F mix is within range, there will be a change. I can see the carb being so far out that the IE would not cause a change. My bad.
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