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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33Willys77 View Post
Well, all this talk and no advice?? Ok, you need to figure out if its too much air, or too much gas causing the bog. You have a big space to fill. You could try bigger squirters. Was any weight removed from the rear butterflys (the ones that open with vacuum, not the throttle plates)? When you stab the throttle, it bogs, but hit the throttle a few times at that time and see if it takes off or gets worse. If it seems to kind of like it better, it may need a bigger shot of fuel. You may benefit from taking off the spacers - if you need/want the scoop height, put spacers above the carbs to raise it. Might be worth a try.
Hey 33, been waiting for your input. Have to order bigger squirters. Thinking that's what it is, more air than gas. No weight removed from the rear butterflys. Hit it, it bogs, let off and hit it again (immediately) and it hauls! I removed the carb spacers from below the carbs (as u advised in another post) and added another 1" spacer above the carb between the carbs and scoop to get the scoop into the wind.
You're right, all this talk and no advise. I feel, if you got nothing to say, then save it.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 07:02 PM
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read what you posted

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Originally Posted by Fang16 View Post
It's all in the tune. I'm competent a good tuner well have something worthwhile to say.
above says it all?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fang16 View Post
You're right, all this talk and no advise. I feel, if you got nothing to say, then save it.
Good to know..

I was trying to help you, but you didn't want to hear me out... But that's cool.. I will remember that..Good day..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
Good to know..

I was trying to help you, but you didn't want to hear me out... But that's cool.. I will remember that..Good day..
I failed to recognize your help. Changing to diff carb or manifold is not much help. Most of us like to work with what we've got. That's a big part of hot rodding.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NOlowrider View Post
Looks like you have everything I would recommend (stall, locked out timing, ect).
What type of linkage? Don't say pregressive.
Have you tried a 50cc acc pump?
Do this happen from a rolling start?
Not progressive, don't work on a t-ram. I can't seem to find what cc the stock pumps are or a number for a 50cc pump unless it's the EDL-1470 from summit.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:31 PM
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Your timing is not locked out. You do not need or want a timing curve.
You want full fixed timing 36deg at idle and 36deg at rpm.
Eliminate the timing curve. This cam need fixed locked timing to get a clean launch.
Then remove the carb spacers. Mount the 750 carbs direct on the intake manifold.
This is where you start tuning..

before you reported good "drivability and throttle response . Now the story has changed. WHY?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Your timing is not locked out. You do not need or want a timing curve.
You want full fixed timing 36deg at idle and 36deg at rpm.
Eliminate the timing curve. This cam need fixed locked timing to get a clean launch.
Then remove the carb spacers. Mount the 750 carbs direct on the intake manifold.
This is where you start tuning..

before you reported good "drivability and throttle response . Now the story has changed. WHY?
I need to clarify the timing. It has a 20degree start retard then goes to 36 at 1000 and idles at 1120. Mmmm? It just hit me, in gear it's down around 850-900. But I was at 1100 and 1500 when I tried the 2 lunches (per ur suggestion that I lunch at a lower RPM) and got the bog. The bog seem to go away at around 3500. That is, holding different RPM in park and hammer it (briefly) lol Drivablity is very good, that's what makes it so perplexing. Read the plugs after about 8 miles and was lean so went to 116 mains with 1442 (.063" x .037") Rod and from 107 to 110 secondary, needless to say it still bogs just playing with it in the garage. In respect for the neighbors I shut it down for the night. I removed the spacers the other day and added 1" more between the carbs and scoop to get it back in the wind as you and 33willys suggested.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:00 PM
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lock out the programable tming curve. You do not want any timing curve at all.

36deg full time. 36deg at idle that does not move with rpm.
Then reset the carbs idle speed and idle mixture once the timing is corrected.
DO NOT JET based on spark plug appearance.
or colour. All you are looking for on the plugs is for excwessive heat and or detonation, NOT Colour.
You jet for power. (Drag strip MPH) Go back to stock default jetting It was not that far off.
You are likely WAY TOO RICH.NOW.
You will not get a clean idle or throttle response until you have corrected the idle timing.
This cam wants locked out full fixed timing. Not a tiiming curve. Eliminate the tiiming curve.

You spark plugs are likely fouled now. Do not use a cold racing plug.

DO not evaluate the throttle response in park. The only throttle response that matters is when driving.
The engine must be warmed up first.

Go back to a .113 pri jet and .073x .047 rod pri and 4" step up spring. use a .110" sec jet.
Then try a .113" pri jet and a .073x .042" pri rod and a .110" sec jet.
You ar4e jumping up way to far on the jetting all at once.
It was not that far off before.
Fix the exhaust gasket leak. (that is giveing you false lean AFR readings)

What heads are on this motor? what spark plug?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 04-20-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
lock out the programable tming curve. You do not want any timing curve at all.

36deg full time. 36deg at idle that does not move with rpm.
Then reset the carbs idle spee and idle mixture ocne the timing is corrected.
DO NOT JET based on spark plug appearance.
or colour. All you are looking for on the plugs is for excwessive heat and or detonation, NOT Colour.
You jet for power. (Drag strip MPH) Go back to stock default jetting It was not that far off.
You are likely WAY TOO RICH.NOW.
You will not get a clean idle or throttle response until you have corrected the idle timing.
This cam wants locked out full fixed timing. Not a tiiming curve. Eliminate the tiiming curve.

You spark plugs are likely fouled now. Do not use a cold racing plug.

DO not evaluate the throttle response in park. The only throttle response that matters is when driving.
The engine must be warmed up first.
That's what I have, 36 at idle. It has a 20 degree for start then goes to 36 at 1000 and stays there and idles at 1100 in park. It's all done by a MSD 6AL-2 programmable so I can program in any curve or non-curve I need. Using AC 45ts plugs set at .035. I just threw in the playing around in park. Yes, it was warmed up real good.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:15 PM
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You will not get correct crisp throttle response and cannot start tuning until the timing is correct.
Correct timing for this motor is locked out timing. 36deg full time all the time.
If you are only using the start retard function it should go to full timing any time it is above 500-600rpm.
and stay there. It must not drop off when in gear.

Spark plugs are the wrong type reach for the 462 head. The 462 head uses a 3/8" reach plug.
You have the R45TS .460" reach with a taper seat. Wrong plug. And just a hair too hot.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 04-20-2013 at 10:21 PM.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
lock out the programable tming curve. You do not want any timing curve at all.

36deg full time. 36deg at idle that does not move with rpm.
Then reset the carbs idle speed and idle mixture once the timing is corrected.
DO NOT JET based on spark plug appearance.
or colour. All you are looking for on the plugs is for excwessive heat and or detonation, NOT Colour.
You jet for power. (Drag strip MPH) Go back to stock default jetting It was not that far off.
You are likely WAY TOO RICH.NOW.
You will not get a clean idle or throttle response until you have corrected the idle timing.
This cam wants locked out full fixed timing. Not a tiiming curve. Eliminate the tiiming curve.

You spark plugs are likely fouled now. Do not use a cold racing plug.

DO not evaluate the throttle response in park. The only throttle response that matters is when driving.
The engine must be warmed up first.

Go back to a .113 pri jet and .073x .047 rod pri and 4" step up spring. use a .110" sec jet.
Then try a .113" pri jet and a .073x .042" pri rod and a .110" sec jet.
You ar4e jumping up way to far on the jetting all at once.
It was not that far off before.
Fix the exhaust gasket leak. (that is giveing you false lean AFR readings)

What heads are on this motor? what spark plug?
Answered before ur edit about jetting so will do it here. Ported double humps, 2.02 and 1.60. AC 45ts plugs at .035. Exhaust leak, don't think so but it pretty loud so hard to tell. The gaskets all look good. how would I find a leak if I can't hear it over the pipes?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:24 PM
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Well now you are suddenly sayingthe AFR is too lean where is was not far off with stock jetting.
That means the AFR gauge is telling you lies. (exhaust gasket leak) the afr gause is useless if the exhaust headers is leaking.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
You will not get correct crisp throttle response and cannot start tuning until the timing is correct.
Correct timing for this motor is locked out timing. 36deg full time all the time.
If you are only using the start retard function it should go to full timing any time it is above 500-600rpm.
and stay there. It must not drop off when in gear.

Spark plugs are the wrong type reach for the 462 head. The 462 head uses a 3/8" reach plug.
You have the R45TS .460" reach with a taper seat. Wrong plug. And just a hair too hot.
Ok, easy enough to change the timing to the 5-600 rpm. 3/8" reach, should they be tapper seat also? no wonder I closed up 4 of them before I indexed them. lol AC 44 ts or autolite 29's be ok?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:40 PM
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AC R42S NGK R5670-6 Autolite AR73 .035" gap.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 10:43 PM
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Autolite spark plug online look up and crossreference
Autolite - Application Look-up
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