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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2006, 10:46 AM
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Don,
Let's see here. First taking out the fendrewells may or may not help, it wouldn't hurt to try. The thing is if you remove the fenderwells but keep the hood, it can act like a parachute. The air can rush in through the fender opening and ket trapped. I say this because I notice you have a flat hood. The only way to know it to run it with and without fender wells and see what works best. If you look through my pictures you will see I modified the fender wells in my 70 Camaro. I lost most of the weight but, kept enough to direct the air.

No you don't want bigger sway bars, as a matter of fact you want to take them off. You will lose several pounds off the nose and it will allow the car to tranfer weaught better. I've owned three 70 Camaros, I ran them all without sway bars and they handled just fine on the street that way. Pictures are here http://community.webshots.com/user/camaroman7d

I'm sure you can find someone to trade that Muncie for a th350. The fact that yours is cracked raises another issue. Why did it crack? Were you running solid mounts? Do you have the dowel ins in the back of your block?

You only need a 6 point roll bar to go 10.00 E.T. Once you get in the 9.99 and quicker then a cage is needed.

Moving the battery to the trunk just helps a little with traction and gets weight off the nose of the car. Camaros tend to be nose heavy, so anything you can do to get weight off the nose is good.

You want a stiff chassis (body and frame) but, you want a free moving front suspension. You don't have to buy fancy springs for the front and you don't have to have top of the line shocks. An adjustable shock would be nice. Out back if you go with Cal-trac bars, then follow their recommendation on springs and shocks (they usually recommend Rancho shocks for the back and hey will give you the part number).

While it sound pretty simple, it's really not that easy to get a car with power to hook consistantly. You need to work on the combo and give the car what it wants. Once you understand how it works, making adjustments and getting the car to hook won't be too bad. Just takes a little time to figure out what's going on. Anyone that has played at the track has been through it, you don't start off with all the answers (you never get ALL the answers).

Your engine is high strung, not going ot be real street friendly, but if you can deal with the high idle and lack of low end torque you can probably manage to get to your local hang outs.

With the proper suspension and a little diet, there is no reason that engine shouldn't run low 11's and it has 10 second potential.

Royce

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2006, 09:10 PM
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Again I thank you for all the help!!! I just dont know where to start? lol I would love to go 11s but after only going 13s I dont want to get my hopes up. I wonder how much hp my motor is even making? I just hope you guys will keep helping on this 72 camaro build up. Thanks again.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:20 PM
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forgot to mention that I was running solid motor mounts and trans mount because thats what I was told to do by a guy at the track last year? Why? Should I use them again or not?
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Old 02-24-2006, 12:37 AM
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Well the solid engine and trans mount is why you now have a broken tranny case. If you are dead set on running solid engine mounts (not really needed) then at least run a "soft" tranny mount. The tranny case won't take that punishment for long with solid mounts. I would suggest either running one solid engine mount on the driver side only or just running urathane mounts (Energy Suspension makes them and they also make a tranny mount as well).

Your engine should be in the 500HP range (500-550, if I had to take wild guess). The thing is it makes the power from 4000RPM on up, so you have to keep it in the happy zone or it will be a dog.

Good luck.

Royce
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