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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:32 PM
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In response to tunnel rams and low end power production. I think it was in Hot Rod years ago (i have it somwhere) they dyno tested several different intake carb combo's on a built 350 chev. The edelbrock street tunnel ram actually made more torque down low than a regular (i.e., victor jr. or perf RPM) single carb intake and more horsepower, just peaked higher....just because they make power up high doesnt mean they dont do it down low too...but thats on a dyno...the issue is throttle response and driveability..correct?...they look cool and run hard, its a personal prefernce thing.

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Old 02-19-2010, 08:50 AM
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That's interesting because that is the manifold I'm using. Except the one I'm using is the old TR1X. Very similar to the street version.
The TR1X or the street version are good for low end torque. They are great for marine application.
Also two small carbs (390CFM X2 = 780CFM) will give you better low end torque then one large carb. (780CFM)
Because of the venturis size.

Last edited by lg1969; 02-19-2010 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:12 PM
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tunnel ram

I run a Weiand tunnel ram with dual 450"s( 9776 Holleys" on my SBC S10 . the linkage is set up progressive. They, in my opinion, run better and smoother than my old single 750. Weiand 1984 tunnel ram has a power ban of 2500 rpm up. In warm weather it fires up very quick. the downside is hard starting in cold weather
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:09 AM
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I run off the front carb
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Edelbrock 500cfm AFB performer/thunder series carbs work very well on a street/strip dual quad or tunnel ram combo.
Actually you can use any of the 500-750cfm Edelbrocks on a street tunnel ram. 750's are not too big.

Holley carbs :
600's or 650's or 750's will work very well. Fine tuning will be required.
A AFR meter/gauge will help you find your way for jetting.
You can use vac sec or DP carbs. Yes the vac sec's will open when tuned correctly.

The tunnel ram and fairly big cam will want lots of initial spark timing. 24deg+++at idle.

Start with locked out mechanical advance -34-36deg BTDC.



Any of the small(er) cap style distributors work well. Get one with vacuum advance included. 10-12deg of vacuum advance adds cruiseability.

With a 31" tall tire use a 4.10-4.30 or 4.56 rear gear.

One of the keys to sucessfully runnning a tunnel ram on the street is to allow a bit of running time for the manifold runners/plenum/engine to warm up to operating temerature before driving. The isolated runners/high plenum takes a bit longer to get some heat in them for good fuel mix vapourization.
While the engine is warming up for you, keep the rpms up.
Once it is warmed up, it will idle fine at around 1000rpm.
Aloha F-Bird, I'm recently having problems with my idle rpms going up and down on my new 496 stroker in my 34 ford. The 2 Edlebrocks are what you recommended (500cfms) above and my hydraulic cam is an isky special grind @632 lift. You are correct in stating that once the motor is warmed up, the idle becomes steadier to a point where its driveable. But once its cold, the idle becomes ****ty so I willl take try your suggestions listed above starting with the calibration of the timing. Thanks
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:12 AM
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Idle problem with a tunnel ram and .632 lift, go figure. What rpm are idling at?

You have to be careful going back in time here. 10 years ago people were talking crazy smack. I remember how people would give advice to rich the mixture , use a smaller jet. They would give advice on how to drill things and other bizarre methods. Instead of going with the normal application. A big one was the mixture screws, controlling other aspects just the idle mixture.

Fbird is a top dog here. I cannot disagree with what he sez. When it comes to racing he knows his stuff.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:53 AM
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This thread is old, look at the dates. And to say F bird is top notch Jesus I'm gonna be laughing about that for the next week. Since he knows so much then the rest of us ARE NOT NEEDED here. He can answer it all by himself.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2013, 12:44 PM
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I don't want to disrespect the senior members. You have to think in the amount of time they have been here, they did something. What ever projects they worked on gave them insight, and then let it filter down here.

For myself, it is about paying it back. I came here in 2002 and somebody explained how to improve my situation. It led to achieving my goals more or less. If I can get them some of the enjoyment with half the frustration I experienced( or money wasted) that's the good fight.

The comment on old posts, is a cheapshot. It has settled down some.

There is a long list of forum names I read that are masters of their craft and public relations online. Then there are some total meatheads.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:53 PM
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I appreciate your courteous input, Spin. I'm really still trying to learn the whole basic concept of hot rodding since I just started 3 years ago. And I have friends that have built their own and have physically helped me in getting my projects done. After receiving advice on this forum, I always consult with the pros and my friends if it is a good approach. Not all is deemed a sensible way of doing it. I must admit though, I have learned alot from this forum and I appreciate everyone's input. I thank the good Lord for having this forum available to me.
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