[1971BB427]

Originally Posted by hcompton

Willys is big inside.

A willys with suicide Door should do nicely. Tons of room inside for big and tall guy.

A note here....Willys don't have suicide doors, unless you're talking rear doors on a 4 dr sedan. The coupes are std. door style. And they are not huge cars. Bigger than an Anglia or my little Austin, but smaller by far than many other American made coupes of the late 30's and early 40's.
And then there's the price! Bettter plan on a glass Willys coupe, as I bought and built my whole Austin for less than a bare '40-'41 Willys coupe shell would cost!
But the '55 Chevy is a big car, and a bit more affordable. You could get a running, driving '55 Chevy for what a Willys body costs!

[BuzzLOL]

.. Those old Willys were made right here at Willys/Overland plant... still a lot of them around here... as are Jeep Wranglers made here and until last August, the Jeep Liberty (sometimes still called a 'Cherokee' in foreign countries that don't like the word 'Liberty') and, up until a year or so ago, the Dodge Nitro version of it...

.. Here's a slick, handy online calculator for RPM vs tire size vs rear ratio vs tranny gears vs MPH (click 'clear right' button before doing anything). Gives a great spreadsheet of info:

http://www.F-Body.org/gears

.. One of my current projects is a SBC 405", MoTown 220 cc alum. heads, Summit #1105 224/234 hyd. flat cam... it's on its 3rd or 4th set of heads and intakes and hasn't even run yet... LOL! . Another is Ford 351"M/400 block 2bbl. getting 400 crank, KB domed pistons, 214/224 cam, and 4bbl. carb. for an F150..

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

A note here....Willys don't have suicide doors, unless you're talking rear doors on a 4 dr sedan. The coupes are std. door style. And they are not huge cars. Bigger than an Anglia or my little Austin, but smaller by far than many other American made coupes of the late 30's and early 40's.
And then there's the price! Bettter plan on a glass Willys coupe, as I bought and built my whole Austin for less than a bare '40-'41 Willys coupe shell would cost!
But the '55 Chevy is a big car, and a bit more affordable. You could get a running, driving '55 Chevy for what a Willys body costs!

No i mean to say add the suicide doors. That way you can make them open wide and fit your frame. I had a friend had one he paid nothing for it was converted to 4x4 for some reason it was cool. I think it had a big van 4x4 kit on it the tires were outside the frame and wheel wells.

I love the chevy II's myself. I got a line on a few rust buckets but looking for a clean one.

[vinniekq2]

Hcompton,I would like a chevyII also. a 65 or 67.I have a couple 283s

[1971BB427]

Originally Posted by hcompton

No i mean to say add the suicide doors. That way you can make them open wide and fit your frame. I had a friend had one he paid nothing for it was converted to 4x4 for some reason it was cool. I think it had a big van 4x4 kit on it the tires were outside the frame and wheel wells.

I love the chevy II's myself. I got a line on a few rust buckets but looking for a clean one.

Since I own a car with suicide front doors, I can tell you they don't make access to entry easier. They actually restrict access to the driver's seat as it requires you enter past the steering wheel, where a normal opening door enters behind the steering wheel. Either way the doors open the same amount, but having to slip past the steering wheel is further complicated when most hotrrods have engine setback, which reuires the steering wheel to be setback also, and further limit entry on suicide doors.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

Since I own a car with suicide front doors, I can tell you they don't make access to entry easier. They actually restrict access to the driver's seat as it requires you enter past the steering wheel, where a normal opening door enters behind the steering wheel. Either way the doors open the same amount, but having to slip past the steering wheel is further complicated when most hotrrods have engine setback, which reuires the steering wheel to be setback also, and further limit entry on suicide doors.

6"3 and 310#...... shoehorn and butter is the only way I'm getting in or out lol.

[bygddy]

Picking up cam today, bought a comp 294s with lifters, $125 bucks still in the box!
248/248
525/525
Should work well I hope, may go 1.6 for more lift....
Need heads and hardware and I should be ready to get this show on the road!
After some good advice and some follow up reaserch its going to be the summit house brand 200cc /64cc
Or a set of pro-filer's.
So.....in summary,
360ci
10.5 comp
.041 quench
Comp 294s solid lifter can
200cc/64cc alum heads
Weiand tunnel ram
2 600 VS holley's
Msd ready to run dist/blaster 2 coil
Long tube 1 5/8 headers
3" exhaust, likely to dynomax race bullets.
TH350, shift kit, 3000 stall
Ford 9" 488 gears
Looking for 12:50's and a fun weekend beater...
Wish this snow would go away lol

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by bygddy

Picking up cam today, bought a comp 294s with lifters, $125 bucks still in the box!
248/248
525/525
Should work well I hope, may go 1.6 for more lift....
Need heads and hardware and I should be ready to get this show on the road!
After some good advice and some follow up reaserch its going to be the summit house brand 200cc /64cc
Or a set of pro-filer's.
So.....in summary,
360ci
10.5 comp
.041 quench
Comp 294s solid lifter can
200cc/64cc alum heads
Weiand tunnel ram
2 600 VS holley's
Msd ready to run dist/blaster 2 coil
Long tube 1 5/8 headers
3" exhaust, likely to dynomax race bullets.
TH350, shift kit, 3000 stall
Ford 9" 488 gears
Looking for 12:50's and a fun weekend beater...
Wish this snow would go away lol

Looks good i love the 294s its simply one of comps best cams. I got one from ebay recently guy said it was new it arrived out of the box and with the lifters dropped in the box and rolled agaisnt the cam every thing had little nicks and surface rust on it. Total junk had to send it back after a big fight.

I just got a set of procomps and they look pretty dam good. 210cc intakes and all pix in my profile. But hardware was all custom setup by machine shop i fpund on ebay. Got heads roller rocker stud girdle guide plate screw in heavy studs and head bolts all for 990 bucks. I can send you the link if you want.

Pix of procomps

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/memb...omp+heads.html

Summit brand is probably procomp as well. Or some other cheap casting. If you want cheap and good go with world of products motown heads they are cheap and do the job and avaible in 210cc intake runners. Edelbrock also makes a cheap head these days.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by hcompton

Looks good i love the 294s its simply one of comps best cams. I got one from ebay recently guy said it was new it arrived out of the box and with the lifters dropped in the box and rolled agaisnt the cam every thing had little nicks and surface rust on it. Total junk had to send it back after a big fight.

I just got a set of procomps and they look pretty dam good. 210cc intakes and all pix in my profile. But hardware was all custom setup by machine shop i fpund on ebay. Got heads roller rocker stud girdle guide plate screw in heavy studs and head bolts all for 990 bucks. I can send you the link if you want.

Pix of procomps

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/memb...omp+heads.html

Summit brand is probably procomp as well. Or some other cheap casting. If you want cheap and good go with world of products motown heads they are cheap and do the job and avaible in 210cc intake runners. Edelbrock also makes a cheap head these days.

Summit's are Brodix IK200's, I had heard this from f-bird and the guy ibought my TR from, even come with a brodix warr card in the box.
Yah, for all the negativity I have heard about the procomps, a now know a couple guys using them from skip white's and im told he has his own hardware locally installed. One just made big power on the dyno using the procomp 210's. And he says the heads looked really nice, no surprises....$650 bucks!
I don't wanna turn this into a political thread about buy USA etc,but was surprised to hear how good they were, the first few generations of them were a disaster and always hit and miss on quality, but it appears that just isn't the case so much.
That being said, until there is some more info on them available I will likely stick wit the summits's.....1049$, 210 runners, and using the flow charts from brodix they should work very well......course I will likely screw them up with a little port work lol....but hey....
Oh and my cam, love it, jegs double shipped it to a guy I know,when he opened his order, there were 2 of them complete with lifters lol. So i bought the spare!

[hcompton]

Well you cant go wrong with brodix.

Are procomps made in china. Its not really a product i would think would be made in china. Now canada sounds right but probably us made. They are not stamped made in china that i can remember. I will look again.

Good score on the cam. 200cc heads a ram and 294 solid it should run well.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by hcompton

Well you cant go wrong with brodix.

Are procomps made in china. Its not really a product i would think would be made in china. Now canada sounds right but probably us made. They are not stamped made in china that i can remember. I will look again.

Good score on the cam. 200cc heads a ram and 294 solid it should run well.

Oh yah, they are a Chinese casting, and the initial generation of them were problematic. There is a tooooooooon of info online about them....marketed as an Australian head initially, and poor quality control etc, so unfortunately they now have a pretty bad rep. That being said, the guys that I know that are using the newer genaration castings are having great success with them. It all depends on how you get them, if your getting directly from procomp I might be leary of their machining and their hardware, but alot of them now are being bought by places like the Skip white eBay store, and having their own local US machine shops go over them and install good parts. This also makes it much easier to return or warranty if the need arises. The bottom line is, bang for the buck, there's not much better and they have come along way from where they started.

[vinniekq2]

what is the icl and lda for that cam? make sure the valves are good quality.just port the exhaust side a little to make up for a non split.
If that car only runs 12.5s Ill drive back east and kick the tires off of it

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

what is the icl and lda for that cam? make sure the valves are good quality.just port the exhaust side a little to make up for a non split.
If that car only runs 12.5s Ill drive back east and kick the tires off of it

106/110 if I remember correctly....and that's exactly what I was thinking, minor exhaust work for the single pattern and call it good. 1.6 rocker puts me at 560 ish lift.
Should be a snarly little motor hoepefully.

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by bygddy

Oh yah, they are a Chinese casting, and the initial generation of them were problematic. There is a tooooooooon of info online about them....marketed as an Australian head initially, and poor quality control etc, so unfortunately they now have a pretty bad rep. That being said, the guys that I know that are using the newer genaration castings are having great success with them. It all depends on how you get them, if your getting directly from procomp I might be leary of their machining and their hardware, but alot of them now are being bought by places like the Skip white eBay store, and having their own local US machine shops go over them and install good parts. This also makes it much easier to return or warranty if the need arises. The bottom line is, bang for the buck, there's not much better and they have come along way from where they started.

I have a set here right next to me these are nice. If i was going to clean up the ports i wpuld need one sanding roll and 3 mins per port. They really are that good. I could go wild but the 210cc ports are very well shaped and pretty large. They would push 600 hp Nicely ported. For sure. I am hoping for close to 500. My intake is crap casue its a vette and i dont want to trash the hood and too much to replace. So if i hit 500 i will dance a jig but 400 at the wheels will easily make my day.

Yep read up on them and was going to buy bare casting or edel e streets or something but found these worked up with all the right stuff. Ready to go. I do plan to run a large victor intake at some point so wanted as much head as i could afford.

Have you actually seen in writing from procomp these are made in china. Cause china does not really do chevy car parts for the most part. And usally large lumps of aluinum come from canada or other countries with aluminum resources. Now i beleive you but have not seen it but everyone on the net screams china junk but china does not have much advantages for casting large aluminum parta like other countries do. I also would not put it past the aussies. But these could be made anywhere. All you need is a small foundry a large haas and a good patten.

These look alot like edelbrocks i was wondering if they were a sister brand of one of the big three. Since most of the time pattens are hardest thing to come buy. I would like to know if these are a stolen patten. But would not be suprised if one of the big three makes these dirt cheap and doesnt want there name on them.

[1971BB427]

Originally Posted by bygddy

6"3 and 310#...... shoehorn and butter is the only way I'm getting in or out lol.

I met Ed Iskenderian at the local community college last year, and he wanted to get behind the wheel and sit in the Austin. He had to go around to the passenger side and slide across. A bit too rotund to slip between the wheel and the door frame, and he's not all that big!