Turbo 350 Doesn't Shift In Drive (must manual)
When I'm sitting still.
My transmission doesn't downshift at all w/ the selector in drive. I have to manually shift the transmission. When I manually shift 1-2 there is a hesitation then a firm shift. Non of the gears slip after the shift.
I bought the transmission re-built from a transmission shop. It has had these symptoms from day one.
I put a B&M trans kit in it, hoping that it would resolve the issue. Didn't help, but the shifts are firmer now. When I put the kit in the transmission I examined the pan and there was not any plate or clutch material in the pan.
This transmission has less than 50 miles on it since I got it from him. But we moved so I can't take it back to get it repaired.
Thanks ahead of time.
Sorry if this is a repeat, I looked but didn't any similar posts
is intake manifold vacuum hooked up to the transmission modulator?
have you checked the vacuum at the modulator?
It is possible the plastic gear on the governor is broken... a round press on cover is where the governor is hidden.
yep all looks good
I pulled the governor per your request.
- The gear is fine, as is the gear in the tranny that it contacts.
- I checked the valve in the governor which moves freely by turning the governor gear up and squeezing the free weights.
- I checked the vacuum at the modulator, the vacuum there is the same as it is at the manifold. Sorry I don't have a gauge or I would give you numbers.
- The valve behind the governor moves freely.
- I checked the modulator my sucking on the vacuum side. It did not leak and the plunger moved freely inside it. Not sure if it make a diff or not, but it has a red band on it.
- I also loosed the set screw in the vacuum tube of the modulator in hopes of relaxing the pressure a little.
- I even disconnected the break booster and blocked off the vacuum port, thinking maybe it was leaking and putting on the breaks to shift into drive was dropping the pressure.
Same symptoms, I'm affraid the guy that did the rebuild hosed me.
If I have to tear into this thing. Does anyone know what I should be looking for???
sorry item 4 should have been:
-The valve behind the modulator moves freely.
Is the kickdown cable hooked up?
If you are moving at a fair speed in 3rd and no detewnt cable, you usually won't get a kickdown at all.
Sounds like you've covered everything else other than possibly sticking shift valves.
oohhh - I just realized I also described a kick down problem.
My tranny is having the problems when I am sitting still. If I put it in drive. It does not pull at all. If I pull it down into 1st. and manually shift up, 1-2 small hesitation then firm shift, 2-3 firm shift.
You must move the shifter to manual "1" for the vehicle to move from a "full stop" ?
Yelp that's it, sorry for being unclear.
It tries to pull a little but I'm scared to push it, I'm afraid of burning 3rd out.
Here's a bit of trivia for you...
First adjust the shifter, adjust it so that when the shifter is in 3rd gear, the trans is in 3rd gear and there is NO pull either way to go away from 3rd.
Pull the pan off this thing, look at the manual valve in the valve body when the shifter is in 3rd gear. The manual valve should be protruding from the back of the VB about 1/16".
Some shift kit instructions say flush, flush WILL cause you a problem.
The difference between 3rd gear, and partially exhausting fluid into the neutral passages is this 1/16".
It is also possible you have a full manual VB...
If this t-350 transmission is a recent rebuild and an automatic shift (NOT full manual shift).
The low roller clutch is in backwards IF this vehicle will not move from a full stop in the "D" shifter range... yet the vehicle will move forward in manual "1" shifter position.
The shifter adjusted correctly too as described by Jake
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