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Turbo 350 not disengaging when stopping
I just bought a 69 Chevelle with less than 10k on the transmission which is a turbo 350 and when I stop it does not disengage and go into neutral. When I come to a stop it can stall the motor when I hold the brake down if I'm not giving it extra gas. Is there an adjustment on the transmission for that?
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Car does not have Power brakes and the idle speed in park is set high around 1000 to 1100 and drops to a stall or just barely running when I'm driving and coming to a complete stop.
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More details about the motor combo??? Kinda sounds like it needed a looser converter, or it needs some tuning.
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Bored out 350 running mild to medium cam with a holley 650 sitting on a Victor Junior manifold, all stock points ignition system, 2.5" dual exhaust into super 40 Flowmasters. Has power steering, no power brakes, no AC. Transmission is a stock remanufactured and torque converter is stock, both have less then 10k miles.
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Headers? DP or Vac Sec carb? What's mild to medium as far as the cam, one man's wild is another man's mild,
Still sounding like it needs a looser converter or some tuning..... ![]() What is your vacuum at idle in neutral, vacuum at idle in gear, and where is your initial timing?
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You need to fine tune the carb. check the float levels make sure properly set, And possibly tweek the timng a little and check for vaccum leaks also. JMO
Cole |
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Well I have already tuned the the idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge, replaced the points, set them to 30 degrees dwell, set the timing to 12 BTC factory specifies 8 BTC but I live at 6,000 feet and with the elevation the extra 4 degrees makes it run alot better. Is there a vacuum line running to the transmission?
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Ok there is a vacuum problem, even if I adjust the idle mixture screws and take off the vacuum hoses and plug every vacuum port on the carb and manifold the best vacuum I can get is 11 inches, any ideas on how to get closer to the 19-21 range? Is my carb too large? is it jetted to rich (It does flood out a bit at lower RPM's sometimes) ? Or could it be the floats in the carb?
If there is a trouble shooting procedure for this problem let me know. Thanks |
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Based on your vacuum numbers, I'm betting you'll need more like 16° to 18° of initial timing, then try your idle mixture adjustment again.
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16-18 on the timing? How did you come up with that? It seems a little early for ignition.
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Some cam and compression combos require as much as 24° initial timing. If you could post your cam and compression specs, we could probably tell you better what kind of initial you need. For now I'd suggest bumping it up 2° at a time, (and re-adjustng idle mixture each time), till it runs better and/or stops stalling.
![]() Here's an example: Flat top, zero deck, .060 over 350, gasket matched and mildly ported 882 heads, Strip Dominator intake, Summit 1105 cam, 1 5/8 long tube headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ran best at 18° initial and 36° total. With 18° initial, I could idle it down to about 500 rpm in gear, 400 rpm in neutral, you could almost count the cylinders firing, It would sit there and go puck-eta-puck-eta-puck-eta, I know some of you guys will know what that sounds like,
Last edited by Rickracer; 03-02-2010 at 11:08 AM. |
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The problem is I don't know any of the specs for the compression and cam, I have only owned this car for two weeks and the engine was built 2 owners ago.
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Follow what Rick is saying, up the timing. The larger than stock cam requires this, especially in your case at altitude. Then you can look at the carb, it may need to jetted lower because of your altitude. Do the timing first, though.
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Quote:
Cole |
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