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Old 08-20-2012, 08:02 PM
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Turbo 400 pan will not stop leaking!

Hey Guys,
I am a pretty experienced mechanic, but gasket after gasket, fluid change after fluid change, the god for saking pan will not stop leaking. I originally thought it was the pan at first, after a thourogh inspection, I noticed the previous owner dag used some sort of grinder to get the remaining gasket off of the pan. So, I bought a new one, new gasket, and replaced. Still......leaks in three spots. Am I torquing it too much? too little? whats the torque rating on the pan?
Any thoughts or advice would be helpful.

Mike

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Old 08-20-2012, 08:40 PM
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Vent on top of tranny plugged up! Excess pressure!
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:42 PM
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How do I clear it?
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:16 PM
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Are you sure it's the pan gasket leaking and not from somewhere else and running down? Maybe the shifter seal or dip stick tube seal is leaking. Are you using a cork gasket or rubber? Make sure both surfaces are completely clean and dry. Install the gasket dry and torque the bolts to 12 ft.lbs. If you feel you need to use a sealer, use something like 3M Weather Strip Adhesive, not silicone.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:08 PM
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Had an issue with one of these same as yours. Like you, after a couple pan & gasket changes with the same leak coming right back pulled the unit and found a small crack in the front of the housing. This particular unit was a replacement and my core was gone. Luckily the seller made good on swapping it for a good unit, sometimes you get an anchor and get blamed for messing it up somehow when you installed it.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:24 AM
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I had a trans pan that would not stop leaking once. I contact cemented the gasket on the pan, then layed a bead of the right stuff on the gasket, never leaked after that.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:24 AM
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S10Racer hit the nail on the head, use a cork gasket not the composite gaskets that come with the trans service kits at Auto Zombie. Use the 3M yellow snot adhesive and use only enough to hold the gasket in place. I typically use only dabs of the yellow snot about six small dabs around the perimeter of the pan to hold the gasket for placement.

Vince
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:03 AM
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The only gaskets I ever had constant success was the ones from ACDelco that come in a flat skin pack. They are some sort of black material that swells when exposed to ATF.
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
The only gaskets I ever had constant success was the ones from ACDelco that come in a flat skin pack. They are some sort of black material that swells when exposed to ATF.
IMHO those are the ones to AVOID

Vince
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:33 PM
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EVENTUALLY; it will stop leaking, but you won't be happy when it does.

Does it have an aftermarket pan?
My guess is its a bad o-ring or a plugged vent.
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Old 08-21-2012, 04:32 PM
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I've used cork gaskets with no problem. There are a couple sealers that work good if you use them right. I have had exellent results with "indian head" gasket shellac as well as the form a gasket sealer. The only problem with these is they are harder to clean up if you have to disassemble the cover you sealed with it. I clean both surfaces spotless and coat one side of the gasket, place it on the cover aligned with the bolt holes and let it sit till it holds the gasket in place, 20 mins to an hour. Then, coat the gasket side that is sitting up facing you, again let it just start to cure and then assemble all bolts hand tight. Torque to spec about 20-30 mins later. As long as there are no other issues with what you are sealing, it always works for me. Water pumps with paper gaskets, thermostat paper gaskets, valve cover, oil pan, trans pan etc. A couple other things I've had that works is the copper spray sealer and the 'spray-tac' don't remember who makes it. I never would use an rtv on a cork gasket, it seems to cause the gasket to squeeze out of the surface you're trying to seal and if it don't leak right away, give it a week or so - it will.

MM
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:06 PM
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I must be odd because i do not use anything on my trans pan gaskets, Havent for years and no leaks. I have seen some pans that over the years of being over tighten they wouldnt seal correctly,
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:19 PM
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True, if all is well it should seal. I like the gasket tack or shellac since it keeps the gasket in place when installing. When I first started doing this I had older cars and limited funds and leaky covers. A bottle of gasket sealer was always cheaper than a replacement cover. I guess it became a habit. Keep in mind, gas was around $.55 and I still had a hard time keeping gas in the thing.

MM
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:55 PM
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Check:
Dip stick
Manual Lever seal
Gov cover
Kick down switch

You might even pull the flywheel cover off and look for signs of the pump leaking.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:21 PM
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Take your pan and lay each edge on a hard surface with a ball peen hammer smack the bottom of each bolt hole back into a flat and straight position. You can actually dimple the holes a little. Use what ever adhesive you like just to hold the gasket to the pan. I like black RTV. It cleans up better the next time you service your trans. Invert the pan with the gasket in place on a flat surface and let the adhesive set up a little. When installing the pan on the trans tighten in a cross pattern 12-15 ft lb. You can do the same thing with valve covers. It always worked for me and I made my living doing it. Something to try.
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