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Old 09-13-2010, 05:40 AM
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Turn Signal issue

Hello,
Hope I’ve answered the "How To Post An Electrical Question” criteria correctly.
What Make Is the Vehicle?
Ford
What Model Is The Vehicle?
Standard 2 door sedan street rod
What is the Year of the Vehicle?
1940
What Engine Displacement is the Vehicle?
Chevy 307
What type of Transmission Do you you have?
TH350
What Is the EXACT nature of the problem? (include everything you have noted, even if you think it won't apply)
See below
Include Type Ignition, HEI or Electronic aftermarket, or Points type (if applicable)
I am 85% sure this has the Standard HEI Chevy ignition.
Include things that may apply, (remote starter systems, Charging systems 1 or 3 wire or generator, Internal or external regulator, Computer controlled for both engine and Transmission or not, EFI, TBI, Multi-port induction systems, any Aftermarket ELECTRICAL components added.)
This engine has a single wire alternator. The engine has a 4 barrel carb with no computer engine controls.
Include any recent work that may have been performed Including wire changes or new harness's which may help to narrow the field down.
The ONLY change made is the grounding wire I added to each rear signal
Here is my question:
My G-pa and I took his 1940 Ford on Power Tour this year. Don’t know when it happened, but we developed a turn signal issue. The car has an aftermarket wiring harness (not sure of brand) and a steering column that looks VERY similar to the one we had on our 1977 full size Chevy van. Here is what is happening. The front turn signals seem to work ok as long as you don NOT apply the brakes. When you apply the brakes, the turn signal in the front just stays on and does not “blink.” The big problem is in the rear signals. Regardless of if you turn the left or right signal on, both signals blink as if you had the hazard lights on. If you step on the brake pedal, they cease blinking. I started by running a ground wire to the frame from each rear signal. That didn’t do anything. Where should I be looking?

Thanks,
Russ

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Old 09-13-2010, 09:17 AM
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Turn Singal

On A 70t's Gm With After Market Wiring Power To Bk Lite Comes From
T. S. S/w To B.k. S/w So It Cant Feed Back To Flasher Probuley White Wire To Prove It Take Hot Off Of B K S/w And Try Blinkers,just A Guss But Had Same Prob My 48 With 72 Pick Up Tilt Good Luck
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:25 AM
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Refer to the attached diagram of GM turn signals.

You will see that all switching for turn signals and hazards is done in the column switch. For the symptoms you describe the switch must be bad.

Thanx for the detailed post.

vicrod
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File Type: pdf gm turnsignals.pdf (55.2 KB, 45 views)
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Old 09-15-2010, 05:19 AM
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Thanks for the ideas. I'll give them a shot. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again,
Russ
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:03 PM
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turn signals

Did you ever get your turn signals fixed. It sounds to me if you never touched anything the switch or caceller went bad or moved, there are three power sources going into that plug so it is getting power when it shouldn't

35 terraplane
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Old 09-27-2010, 02:49 PM
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I do "a bit" of traveling for work and have not had a chance to get back to it. I'll post my results when I get it solved. Hopefully in a week or two! THANKS!
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:37 AM
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Problem Resolved?

Well, Had one of the final car tours in Iowa this weekend. The "Cruise To The Woods" was on Sunday. On Saturday we decided to have another look at the turn signals. Figured I'd try grounding them right to the bulb socket rather than just the studs that hold the fixtures to the car. If that didn't work, then we'd be looking at the switch in the steering column. After getting the car in the shop, we pulled the lens cover off of the drivers side light to see how we could get a ground wire from the bulb socket to the frame as it looked like we'd be forced to drill a hole in the back of the fixture to run the grounding wire through. On a whim, we tried the signals again........ They worked perfectly. There was NO bleeding from one signal to the other, and the brakes did not stop them from blinking. The ONLY change from when I ran ground wires from the fixture studs to the frame was an oil change! Not a clue why the wiring gremlins left. Part of me is just happy they left. Part of me wants to know WHY!. Anyway, hopefully the problem stays solved. Thanks for all your help!
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:05 PM
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turn signals

Glad to hear you fixed them I would guess that the body behind those nuts that hold the light fixture in are a little dirty and not making a ground. buy putting a wire on the light socket you made a good ground . It also could have been that light socket was not making good contact withe the light fixture and again you grounded it. I would say , if that has happened back there I would plan a winter project and rebuild all the light fixtures sounds like they are starting to rust a little. I rebuild mine before I rewire a car if the person is not changing lights.


Later 35terraplane
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Old 10-05-2010, 09:40 PM
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Sometime a connection looks good but isn't. I'd put a dab of dielectric silicone on your connections.
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Old 10-06-2010, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRTS33
Sometime a connection looks good but isn't. I'd put a dab of dielectric silicone on your connections.
Tat seems like a solid idea. Just on the positive side of the bulb? I'll also follow 35terraplane's advice and look into rebuilding, or at least cleaning, ech of the fixtures.

Just seems weird that it started working 2 weeks AFTER the grounding wires were installed. Not sure what frustrates me more, not knowing what was wrong or not knowing why they decided to work. Maybe I shouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth. Once again, thanks for all the help!

Russ
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