Turning 2 350's into 1 383... CHEAP, take a look - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:03 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: louisiana
Posts: 145
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Turning 2 350's into 1 383... CHEAP, take a look

Hey guys, this is what I got, first motor: .060 over 350 block, 64cc camel hump heads, very mild lunati cam, factory dish style pistons, 1.5 rockers, performer intake, holley street avenger 670. This is in a rebuilt jeep with 35's. This motor is a very strong awesome running motor. Motor 2 is standard bore, -5cc KB flats, 76cc heads, stock cam, performer RPM intake. ( this motor has never been started) what would y'all do to get a cheap 383 out of these? I was thinking go with the standard block since 60 is kind of thin. Keep standard bore, use my new flat tops, with a 350 stroker crank. Go for a 377. But use 64cc or 76cc heads.... And i still have the factory standard bore dish pistons as well.... So use what heads, with what pistons....I guess I'm just asking y'all opinion to make a stroker with buying as least as possible. I'm just nervous to use a 60 over block for a stroker. What's yalls opinion on that too. It's just a cruise around jeep. No off road in this one. The other 350 will be used in another jeep with 44 boggers. Just tell me what y'all think about the whole ordeal, thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:12 PM
hcompton's Avatar
Old & Furious
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MD
Age: 41
Posts: 1,074
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 87 Times in 84 Posts
I know all 4x4 guys ask for tq motors but they really arwnt that important. High rpm engines usally make it easier to offroad with 4.11 plus gears. 350 should be enough to break all the factory diffs and suspension.

I would do the 60 over block. Its will make more power and you already have good kb pistons in the other engine it would blow to replace them.

Get a scat or eagle 383 balanced rotatong assembly and let her rip. Leave th other engine running so you can drive during the rebuild.

60 over is fine if tis hot then you need more radiator.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:33 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: louisiana
Posts: 145
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good reply hcomp. I might just do that. And by the way. Sent that other truck avenger back to Holley, they sent a replacement and WOW. Now that motor runs, something was wrong internally with it from the factory. Thanks for the help on that too
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 09:59 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: louisiana
Posts: 145
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What kind of numbers do you think I would be looking at keeping the 60 over block just as it is but swapping to the stroker crank? So Itll have stroker crank, factory dish style pistons and 64cc heads. Would sit be better to use the 64 or 76 heads. I want as much compression as I can get on straight pump gas. But if I did go with the flats, would that be too much compression with 64 heads?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2012, 11:55 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 8,116
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 323
Thanked 785 Times in 751 Posts
I think you are trying to build a 366 using cheap rebuilder pistons
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2012, 06:14 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hopewell, Va
Age: 62
Posts: 1,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 118 Times in 114 Posts
Turning 2 350's into 1 383... CHEAP, take a look

it doesn't matter which motor you build the 383 cid from. Like hcompton said I would keep the running engine and build the other. You will need a 383 crank and a set of 7cc flat top pistons for the 383 crank. The flat top pistons for a 350 have a compression height of 1.561" for a 383 the compression height is 1.433".
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2012, 06:36 AM
hcompton's Avatar
Old & Furious
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MD
Age: 41
Posts: 1,074
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 87 Times in 84 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350cruiser View Post
What kind of numbers do you think I would be looking at keeping the 60 over block just as it is but swapping to the stroker crank? So Itll have stroker crank, factory dish style pistons and 64cc heads. Would sit be better to use the 64 or 76 heads. I want as much compression as I can get on straight pump gas. But if I did go with the flats, would that be too much compression with 64 heads?
383 crank uses stock sized rods but the crank is longer stroke and in order to keep the pistons from pushing out of the block with the longer stroke. They use a piston with a different piston pin location they are shorter pistons. basicly

So for 383 minum build you need to replace the pistons and crank. along with the flexplate and balancer. but the balanced kits come with balancer and flexplate pistons rods crank and pins. so its a complete rotating assembly and gives you the 383 cubes.

this way you dont need to have it balanced since the blocks bore is good you can just swap the parts over. Yes this is a down and dirty way of doing it. but pretty much the same as everyone else does it. factory does the same stuff as well. For best results custom balancing and bore should be based on actual pistons but most are very close to the correct size these days. I would just stab it and go. in your case i would say the extra expense would not be worth it. as there would be little performance increase.

Now the 44" tires and a 383 equal broken stuff under the car. drive shafts and rear end gears along with stronger bearings and supports. so save your cash for the big stuff under the car you can always stab in a bigger motor.

As for CR I used this calculator to get the cr and dynamic compression ratio based on cam.
United Engine & Machine Co. Incorporated

stock deck is .025 cut its usally .010, head gaskets .041 you can get one .015 if need be usally gasket bore is 4.1 or 4.080 if you buy the small one. 3.75 stroke and 5.7 rods and piston head volume on 6cc dish this is common for flat tops with four valve reliefs. lands around 10.8:1 for 64 cc heads. which is good for power and with a large enough cam should be able to keep the knocking under control. but be sure not to use my numbers and use ones provided by the manuafacturer of the kit you buy.

glad to hear the new carb is working correctly. I knew something was wrong cause you had tried everything and the same problem was there the entire time. It sounded like you had done this before so figured you knew your stuff had to be the parts. usally with tuning you go from lean to rich and cant get it perfect in your case it was just broke all the time. no matter what correct changes you made. Happy to hear its running good.

sorry for the book.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2012, 09:01 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: louisiana
Posts: 145
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey thanks for the replies, iv been looking at the 383 kits and there starting to look pretty good, prices aren't that bad too. I was a little unsure on the pistons so thanks for clearing it up. Iv always rebuilt 350's this will be the first 383. As for breaking axles and stuff.... It's ALL been changed, I'm running a 14 bolt rear and 60 up front all rebuilt and upgraded along with driveshafts. As well as strengthening up the frame. I just have to make sure to keep it on pump gas. Thanks again
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2012, 09:19 AM
hcompton's Avatar
Old & Furious
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: MD
Age: 41
Posts: 1,074
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 87 Times in 84 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350cruiser View Post
Hey thanks for the replies, iv been looking at the 383 kits and there starting to look pretty good, prices aren't that bad too. I was a little unsure on the pistons so thanks for clearing it up. Iv always rebuilt 350's this will be the first 383. As for breaking axles and stuff.... It's ALL been changed, I'm running a 14 bolt rear and 60 up front all rebuilt and upgraded along with driveshafts. As well as strengthening up the frame. I just have to make sure to keep it on pump gas. Thanks again
Sweet nice to hear.

The biggest difference between the 350 and smaller and 383/400 is the 383 are externally balnced and need different balancer and flexpalte/flywheel. This is why i always suggest buying a complete balanced kit. all you got to do is unbox it and go if your under 6000 rpm range then your set above that will always require speacail final balancing. which can be done by Scat or eagle but not really needed for most builds if the kit comes pre balanced then its good to go.

Look at there cheaper pistons for lower compression dont let them talk you into a special upgrade they have cheap ones that will hit the compression numbers you need. 6cc to12cc dish will give you street able compression. but pump gas can be run with 11:1 if the cam is right and engine is built right. Cam can help adjust the dynamic compression ratio. I usally shoot for the most compression I can get and still use the fuel selected.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
turning a 350 into a 383 stroker jperry90 Hotrodding Basics 15 05-23-2012 05:49 AM
350 smells after turning off MegaTherion Engine 6 03-28-2006 08:02 AM
Cheap 383 low77ride Engine 17 01-10-2004 01:29 PM
turning a 350 and 400 into a 383 and 377 bullheimer Engine 8 05-17-2003 04:43 AM
Turning my 350 into a 383? malibu65ss Engine 9 08-28-2002 11:56 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.