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Old 04-06-2009, 02:00 PM
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turning over a sbc on a stand by hand

i have a 383, that is on an engine stand, and i occasionally spray some WD-40 in the sparkplug holes and turn it over at the balancer with a breakerbar without the distributor in it, i was told by a pretty knowlegeable friend of mine that since i have done this, that before i can put the distributor in it that i will have to pull out and adjust something down in the distributor hole, one other thing is i first turned the balancer the wrong way and the bolt started coming loose, i tightened the bolt back up but im worried that i would have thrown of the timeing marks on the balencer to the tab coming off the block, can the balancer actually be loosed up like this or did the bolt just loosen, im not sure, any input would help thank you

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Old 04-06-2009, 02:20 PM
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There is a key way so you cannot mess up the balancer's position. Dropping the dizzy in is not a drop and go problem- I suggest looking it up. Also, I wouldn't use WD40 for that- it is not a cure all.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:22 PM
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Just re torque the balancer bolt, nothing else required. Turn the engine in the correct direction, no need to turn it backwards. And you have enough lube to last a month at least, no more unless it sits longer.

Your buddy was talking about the oil pump drive shaft- it might need to be turned when it comes time to install the distributor. No big deal.

You will have disturbed the oil shaft's position anyway, when you prime the oil system before start-up.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:30 PM
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well the engine will probably sit on the stand for atleast a year, and i only turn it about once every month or so, i don't even think ive done it that often, he said i should be good with using wd40 cause on start up it's all gonna burn up anyway, how would i turn the oil pump shaft, ive seen someone prim the engine before but never watched closely to what they were doing, i saw them put a drill down the dristributor hole and turn it over for a few second, how exactly would i go about doing this as well
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:37 PM
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you can take a old stock distributer and weld a nut to the top of it.put it in the motor take a rachet or air wrench just not (WFO) and spin the motor over.it will prime it.they make a drive rod for this you put in a 1/2 in drill place in hole and prime it that way.you can order one from jegs/summit/or your local parts store might have one or they can order it. hope this helps. cole
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:52 PM
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The gear has to be ground down so it doesn't contact the cam. I use a drill chuck at the top, as shown below, to turn with a drill.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
The gear has to be ground down so it doesn't contact the cam. I use a drill chuck at the top, as shown below, to turn with a drill.
good call cobalt. i forgot about the grinding of the gear.i like your setup .cole
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
you can take a old stock distributer and weld a nut to the top of it.put it in the motor take a rachet or air wrench just not (WFO) and spin the motor over.it will prime it.they make a drive rod for this you put in a 1/2 in drill place in hole and prime it that way.you can order one from jegs/summit/or your local parts store might have one or they can order it. hope this helps. cole
If you use an old distributor, you must remove the gear at the bottom of the shaft to use the distributor as an oil pump priming tool. If you don't remove the gear you will not be able to turn the distributor shaft without turning over the engine. That gear is normally used to drive the distributor from the mating gear on the camshaft.

The oil pump driveshaft can be turned by using a long flat bladed screwdriver from above when the distributor is not installed.

Sorry cobalt327. I was typing my reply as you were.
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:14 PM
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i was looking up some breakin procedures, but the engine has already been borken in, we pulled it out of a chevelle with an est. 4-6k miles on the engine, i pulled the valve covers before buying it and everything was really clean so i believed the statment about the mileage, the only reason the engine was pulled was beacause it was sold and the new owner wanted a big block to go into it, he did tell me that it ran really well, and i have all the recipts from the engine as well (good parts, and looked to be well built), i shouldn't have to worry about breaking in the engine all the gaskets, seals and rings should have already been seated, is there any other thing that i should pay piticular attention to when starting up, also, how would you go about perserving the engine for a year
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
The gear has to be ground down so it doesn't contact the cam. I use a drill chuck at the top, as shown below, to turn with a drill.

Being partially psychotic, I've wondered, while priming the oil system, "if I left the distributor gear teeth on so the cam gear was engaged, how big would the electric drill have to be to rotate the engine thru the distributor drive". Hummmm?

Bogie
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:28 PM
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priming engine.....

HI,take an old distributer ,grind off the teeth on the bottom,as stated in other posts,that gear mates with the cam gear. look into the distributer hole,about 8 inches down,you will see a round thing (circle?) with a grooved cross piece inside the circle.do you see it??? that is for the bottom of the distributer to fit into,allowing the dist,to be in phase with the cam.you can take a long screwdriver and turn the grooved piece to line up with the bottom of your old distributer.heres what i do,after the distributer bottom is mated with the grooved piece,i put the dist clamp on,to hold the dist.check to make sure theres oil in the pan, then i use a milwaukee drill and chuck the top (where the rotor would go)of the dist into the drill,turn the drill on and let her rip. you cant hurt the engine if you leave the drill run for 1 minute or 1 hour. i always leave the dist in the engine,and about once a month,i will do the drill trick.you can pull the valve covers ,while running the drill to make sure the push rods are oiling the valve train...have fun.
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Being partially psychotic, I've wondered, while priming the oil system, "if I left the distributor gear teeth on so the cam gear was engaged, how big would the electric drill have to be to rotate the engine thru the distributor drive". Hummmm?

Bogie
You're a sick man Bogie. I like that in a person.
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:43 PM
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primping a sbc

Get an old dist. Knock the pin out of the cam gear and slide the gear off. Pull the shaft out the top of the housing. place the housing in a vise and saw it off just above the hold down ring where the joke holds it in the intake. saw the top off the top end of the shaft below the button holder, now slide the shaft back into the housing, grind the teeth off the gear (make sure you get all of the teeth off plus some) replace the gear and reinsall the pin to hold it in place. Now I have a lath and I made a groove at the top of the shaft at the top of the housing to hold a e clip to keep the shaft from coming out of the housing. You could use hacksaw and slowly saw around the shaft to make a groove. Drop it in and start spinning until you get oil to the rockers. Happy asphalting
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
Being partially psychotic, I've wondered, while priming the oil system, "if I left the distributor gear teeth on so the cam gear was engaged, how big would the electric drill have to be to rotate the engine thru the distributor drive". Hummmm?

Bogie
I bet a Milwaukee hole hog has the power, but I think it would sheer the teeth off the dizzy gear before it turned the engine. LOL!!
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:53 PM
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im seeing where the majority are telling me to get an old dist. grind the gear down and put it back in the engine, now i have looked in the dist hole and i see the rod sticking up with a slot in it, i one or two of you have also said to put a long flat blade screw driver into the slot, with the other end in a drill and let her rip, is there any difference to these two methods, will one work just as well as the other
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