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Old 01-30-2009, 04:47 PM
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twin turbo 540

Hey guys. I am building a twin turbo 540 and am not sure which crank, rods, and pistons to go with? What do you guys suggest? I am looking to make a little over 1000 rwhp reliably. Thanks.

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Old 01-30-2009, 07:44 PM
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What do you guys think of the World 540 Short Block? What kinda power can that handle?
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:39 AM
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you should talk to your local speed/machine shop since they will be the ones doing your build judging by your knowledge level, do some research on your project and realize you are looking at a very expensive motor.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:55 AM
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Well I am going to have the machining done by someone but, I plan on doing the actual assembly. I am just having trouble selecting parts it seems you need to have actual experience with this stuff to know what are the best options. I know its going to be expensive. I also, know a 540 is a great size for a turbo bbc and thats my reasoning for selecting it. Thank you.
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Old 02-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a fully certified ASE master mechanic with 50 years of experience, what would you rate yourself as far as being technically inclined?

Building a twin-turbo bbc that runs involves a lot of research. A lot of math, and a lot of money. It's far more than just buying parts and bolting them together. To be able to answer your question correctly, give us some info on what your planning to do with this engine, what kind of car its going in, and what your budget is. 1k horsepower is an obtainable goal but how long it actually lasts is the tricky part. A stock 4 bolt block and forged crank may hold together for a little while but were never designed to withstand this kind of power. I would start by looking at aftermarket cranks and rods such as those made by callies, venolia and the similar high end brands. Take a look at the World and Dart blocks. These companies build components totally redesigned from what the factory engineers designed.

After you get an engine built you have to design a drivetrain and suspension that gets the power to the ground reliably. You can build a motor that puts out 10,000 hp, but if all it does is spin the rubber off of the tires your not achieving much. A 500-600 hp big block will put out just about all the power you will ever need on the street, and you can do that with out a turbo.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:10 PM
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I am not worried about the assembly. I have friends who build motors professionally for well established businesses who will help me if I need it. My own personal ability to assemble an engine I would say is advanced for most. I have experience building motors in mopeds, quads, jeeps, dirt bikes, and street bikes. My father was a ASE Certified head mechanic. So I think I have all the resources at my finger tips to assemble the motor. I just want to hear some of your guys views on the strongest parts to use in a twin turbo 540. I have spoken with my friends but, they basically assemble already preselected combinations of parts. So they have very limited experience in part selection. If you guys could just let me here a few of your personal experiences with various parts I would appreciate it.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:19 PM
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If I were after what you are I would not even consider a BBC. I would go with Chevy's current LS7 engine which is rated at 505 HP, but capable of much more. The LS series engine is far superior both in strength and HP potential to a BBC.

Vince
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:01 PM
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You can buy engine packages from Reher-Morrison, Sonny Leonard, Scott Shafiroff and several other that make over 1000HP without turbos or any power adders. You can compare the quality of components and $$$$'s you will spend to get those engine packages and see if you still are on track with what you are thinking is needed to do it. Then add several more thousand $$$$'s for the turbos and induction system to top it off with. Like already has been said, you will need to upgrade from forged components to "Billet", if you expect longevity, so go ahead and add several more thousand on top of the total just for an added measure....and then add several more thousand, in case the several thousand you already added isn't enough. Oh yeah, don't think your going to get by with a two or three hundred dollar tranny and rear end, or a hundred dollar converter....

Last edited by CNC-Dude; 02-02-2009 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:28 PM
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Block: Dart "Big-M" 4.500 bore, 9.800 deck, part#31263444 ($2,824.95 from summit) This block is a good foundation to build on and can handle 1500+ hp. Blocks will flex, twist and contort under high pressures. Although minimal, it doesn't take much to turn a rotating assembly into a grenade.

Crank: Crower Ultra-light 4.250" ($2,706.99 from jegs) Reduced rotating mass is one of the biggest factors in how high you can safely rev an engine.

Rods: Bill Miller "BME" die-forged aluminum 6.385" (approx. $1300) or Manley Pro-Series I-beam 14162 6.385" ($1572.99 from summit) A strong rod is a necessity since it is one of the most stressed parts of an engine internals. I suggested the BME rods because they are a die-forged aluminum which is light. Many people would say never put an aluminum rod in a street motor, which for the most part is true due to most aluminum rods having a relatively short service life and are designed mainly for the dragstrip. However, the BME rods are manufactured in such a way that they may actually outlast a forged 4340 rod under the same conditions. Regardless, Bill Miller says there good for at least a couple hundred thousand miles in a street engine, which is much longer than most of the other internals in a 1k hp engine. The aluminum is also a little softer than the steel which helps to absorb some of the shock from detonation should you run lean.

Heads: AFR 345cc magnum, 119cc, rectangle port, 2.300/1.880 valves, ($2,117.95 pair assembled from summit) Forced induction needs big entrances and exits to get the most air possible into the combustion chamber. The AFR's are good but I do think the exhaust port could be a smidge bigger. They do have a 5 angle valve job and basic cnc port work.

Pistons: JE spherical dish, forged, 4.500" 8.5:1. I'm guessing, without doing any math, you'll need about a +5cc dish if your block is zero decked to put you around 8.5:1 with the 119cc combustion chambers

Cam: custom roller .592/.592, 244/244 (used in Borowski 540tt)

Turbos: Turbonetics T62 x 2 @ 15psi

Try that and see what happens.

Last edited by DaSouthWon; 02-03-2009 at 12:00 AM. Reason: add'l info
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:45 PM
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I myself like the Calies Pro Series cranks, anything ultra light tends to twist under NO2, or forced induction. I also like Crower rods the Manleys are heavy in the wrong places and spend the extra on good rod bolts, the ARP 2000 is a diecent part. If I were going with an aluminum rod the GRP's are nice and Michael is a good guy to deal with. I like JE or CP pistons either one will build a piston to your spec and may have a shelf part to fit your build. The rings I would use the helfire ring, they are hard to file fit but worth it. All of the NO2 motors I do have them and they seal fast and leak down is good after 50+ fogger passes. The block I would pick a Dart big M over the World Products merlin but if you have the money to offset the weight of the turbos I like the Brodix aluminum, they come with billet caps and if you bush the lifter bores they are a nice piece. I do not like AFR BBC heads, if you want something in a 23-24 degree head the Brodix -2 or 2X is a good part or if you are willing to pay for some porting the Dart 345 is a good part.

Hope this helps, Mike
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:53 PM
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I myself have mixed emotions on the AFR's, I like em on the sbc's but think they're so-so on the sbf's. Not crazy about the exhaust valve seat design on the bbc's I listed.

Have you ever used the BME rods?
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaSouthWon
I myself have mixed emotions on the AFR's, I like em on the sbc's but think they're so-so on the sbf's. Not crazy about the exhaust valve seat design on the bbc's I listed.

Have you ever used the BME rods?
I am with you on the Ford and rat motor AFR's The only thing I did not like about the SBC AFR was the lack of a valve cover rail. If you don't have a real good set of valve covers they leak like the bolts fell out.

I have used the Bill Miller rods in the past and they are a good part but the GRP are top shelf as far as aluminum rods go.
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Old 02-07-2009, 12:06 PM
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turbo 540

Theres a guy here where i live that has two yes I said two turbo'd 540's in a boat. I dont know much about the 540 and another guy around here also is building a t-bucket with twin inline 540's with a coupler setup that enables you to run off one one engine on the street but coupled up you can run them both at the same time on the strip. This guys dad was involved in tommy Ivo's 4 engine dragster may be able to get you some numbers from some guys doing along the same lines as you if theres a way to give out numbers safely on the site, dont mean nothing by that but am new to net and here horror stories is all I mean so if your interested let me know how to pass on #
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