Hi, Im new to the forums here... Anyways my father in law gave me a smoked 355 to tinker with (blown head gasket and 4 spun rod bearings). Well the problem is I have never built a muscle motor before, I was all about the imports. My first thought to do with this motor was just build a simple 383 since all the work to the block has already been done. Although after doing some research I want to mix the import and muscle into one motor, example being variable lifters wich from my understanding would basically make whatever heads I bolt to this beast act as vtec heads, I think that would be pretty cool... As far as the build I am lost. So what Im asking for is a parts list of what Ill need.. Also this motor will be going into an 89 iroc z with the tpi (port and polish of course).
I know I need 2.02 heads, brand ????? 3.75 forged crank, 5.7 or 6.0 rods? inverted dome pistons or flat top?
I need some help here, I used to taking ka24's, sr20's, b16+18's, h2xa's and just slapping forged internals in them. Port and polishing the heads, high flow exhausts, and running 15-20 psi of boost through them.
My goal for this build is 1000+ hp, with twin 68mm turbos running at 1 bar of boost (14.7)...
Hi, Im new to the forums here... Anyways my father in law gave me a smoked 355 to tinker with (blown head gasket and 4 spun rod bearings). Well the problem is I have never built a muscle motor before, I was all about the imports. My first thought to do with this motor was just build a simple 383 since all the work to the block has already been done. Although after doing some research I want to mix the import and muscle into one motor, example being variable lifters wich from my understanding would basically make whatever heads I bolt to this beast act as vtec heads, I think that would be pretty cool... As far as the build I am lost. So what Im asking for is a parts list of what Ill need.. Also this motor will be going into an 89 iroc z with the tpi (port and polish of course).
I know I need 2.02 heads, brand ????? 3.75 forged crank, 5.7 or 6.0 rods? inverted dome pistons or flat top?
I need some help here, I used to taking ka24's, sr20's, b16+18's, h2xa's and just slapping forged internals in them. Port and polishing the heads, high flow exhausts, and running 15-20 psi of boost through them.
My goal for this build is 1000+ hp, with twin 68mm turbos running at 1 bar of boost (14.7)...
Im tryin to figure out how that would be a problem??? Can the sbc not handle that high of boost or what? Ive seen a couple builds online that are running 8-9 psi and are hitting 915+hp...
Im tryin to figure out how that would be a problem??? Can the sbc not handle that high of boost or what? Ive seen a couple builds online that are running 8-9 psi and are hitting 915+hp...
It's not that it's not possible- it's that it's beyond my experience.
That said, my opinion is that an OEM block will not cut it. Actually, I'd be surprised if there were ANY OEM parts involved, period- unless the length of the fuse was of little concern.
I have no doubt that this block can handle it. When this motor was being bored 30 over it broke the machine shops hone twice. All I know about this block is its from the early 70's, 4 bolt main, and its a mexican block. Anyways Im still needing help on a parts list.
So far what Ive put together is,
Scat procomp light weight crank (6.0 rod)
Dart 2.02/ 1.60 heads, 72 cc cumb chamber (to help lower compression for higher boost)
I have no doubt that this block can handle it. When this motor was being bored 30 over it broke the machine shops hone twice. All I know about this block is its from the early 70's, 4 bolt main, and its a mexican block.
I don't think anyone is trying to frustrate you. What you're looking for is something that people here may not have much experience with.
While your build is interesting, it's not something you can do without quite a lot of money (not to mention experience). Variable valve timing aside, building an SBC to take the boost levels you're looking for is going to require a very good builder and a lot of money. There is a reason professional racers will spend $20k or more on their engine.
Building a 1000hp SBC may not be too hard, but building that same power level and having it be reliable is a whole new undertaking. It can be done. However, I agree with cobalt. If you're going to run that kind of boost and those power levels, IMO the OEM block isn't going to cut it.
It is hard to provide help in this case since your idea is helpless...nothing personal just my opinion. No one can bring this motor together with a OEM block I don't care how many honing machines it broke :spank: if it could be done then you would get all the help you needed here, I admire your willingness to bring it to the table though...
It is hard to provide help in this case since your idea is helpless...nothing personal just my opinion. No one can bring this motor together with a OEM block I don't care how many honing machines it broke :spank: if it could be done then you would get all the help you needed here, I admire your willingness to bring it to the table though...
Nothing against anyone in here, but from what Ive been reading on here not to many people have played with boost.. Going with a final CR of about 7:1 there should be no problem pushing 12+psi. As I said earlier I have built many import motors in the past running 15+ psi. Dropping my CR will allow me to succeed in pushing more boost. I was reading a TT 383 build on a different site where the guy used an oem block pushing 9 psi and is having no problems yet. The twist I am trying to accomplish (VVT) may throw a different degree of difficulty into the build, but running VVT will actually prolong the life of the motor. Yes I know this is going to cost me a arm and a leg to build, but if I can succeed Ill be happy. Ive got a few custom auto shops helping along with this build as well. One of them being a shop that all they specialize in is boosting the impossible, their latest project was an srt10 viper that they twin centrifugal super charged pushing 13psi on the STOCK BLOCK. Like I said I am just looking for a parts list of good/premium parts to build this motor with. I know a bunch of people have built a few 383 in their day, this is my first...
Your experience is with very small bores, short strokes, very light rotating assemblies and very high revs. When you get into the dynamics of pressures in big bores vice small bores, you can see that the big bores require cylinder walls that will withstand the extremely high pressures generated. Then you have to think of containing the much more massive rotating assemblies that are going to have to rotate at a much higher rate to make the horsepower you are talking about. An OEM block just is not going to cut it. Don't care if it is a tired old early 70s, bore tool breaking block made in Mexico(???). You just can't rewrite the laws of physics and rules of metalurgy to achieve unrealistic goals. But go ahead and knock your self out.
With a low compression ratio there is nothing holding me back from pushing 12 psi. A little more work is required to get my 15 I looking for but it can and has been done with retained reliability. Even with 10-12psi my projected hp at the crank is between 950-1010. I also have most of my parts list put together finally after many phone calls throughout the day.
Even if it takes me a year to complete this project Im going to do it just to show what limits you can push a OEM sb to. Also its not like this car/motor is going to be race only (hence the VVT). Like I was always told; where there is a will, there is a way.
Im not sure if you guys are telling me it cant be done because either you have tried and failed, seen others try, or just scared to attempt it? Im surprised out of everyone that has posted none of you have encouraged it, only shot the idea down. Isnt building motors about trial and error?
thats kind of what i was thinking. They might be telling him its doable knowing they'll be making some good money at it..
on another note. you are right, nothing is impossible, and im sure with enough time and money you would be able to get this thing running. but i think the guys are trying to give you a heads up and dont wanna see you get soaked.
What I don't quite understand here is you guys are trying to say its suicide on an oem block. But people are running 200+ shots of no2, blowers, all that stuff on oem blocks. So if they are doing that then I'm not sure why a TT setup is taboo.
forcing that much air into that block, I think you would definatly need to upgrade your head bolts, I know on old mack trucks we used to torque the bolt, but the head of it off, and then weld it to the head solid. lol....to many guys were stretching the head bolts, it got kinda outta hand..hahaha
to everyone who says it wont work and don't do it, i say let him. its his money and he seems intent on doing it. im gona get out my popcorn and wath this one :thumbup:
I'm gonna do it reguardless. Also the internal pressure really won't be that high. If I'm dropping down the compression to 7:1 and let's say 8psi of boost really I'm only bringing the compression up to about 9-9.5:1. So 12 psi would be hitting around 10.5-11:1. From what I have been told 11-11.5:1 is max that you wanna run through an oem block. Honestly I think this will be safe build if I drop my boost down to 11psi. I'm still going for it though, even if I get no encouragment lol.
*sighs* if you read I'm dropping my boost to around 11psi. Also they are running an 8.5:1 compression to start off with, whereas I'm starting off with 7:1. If I was planning on building this car for race only I would spend the 2+ grand on a new block, but I'm not going to be out every other day running the motor to it full potential. Atleast that was a link for help that I was asking for in the first place rather than getting slammed saying my build will never work. Thank you for that. I have faith in this even if others don't.
Well it appears I have to buy a new block anyways, I just got the motor fully disassembled and it looks like the number 5 cyl is cracked along with a rough patch of i dont know what that i couldnt even get to smooth out with a hone. Here is a pic, any opinions on what it could be? Also its kind of hard to see what looks like the crack Im talking about...
Ok scratch that crack issue. It was just dirt collecting on that "roughness". I think what I'm just going to end up doing is have the block remachined, and just leave it at a 355 put a decent set of heads on it, swap it out with the 350 in my truck, and go back to 4 cylinders.
So on the 355 just buy another cast crank, new rods and pistions, and that should hold up for just a daily driver truck right?
I have no doubt that this block can handle it. When this motor was being bored 30 over it broke the machine shops hone twice. All I know about this block is its from the early 70's, 4 bolt main, and its a mexican block. Anyways Im still needing help on a parts list.
Its not cracked, and that rough patch I think is from where it had a blown head gasket and the water/anfreeze just sat in there for the 2 years the motor sat and caused it to rust or whatever.
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