[lotusteve]

I need a little help with Model A frame it is twisted front to rear about 1/2in
When one end is level the other is 1/2in out of level any home remedy to remove the twist. I am thinking of bolting one end down level and shimming the other end on the low side and drawing down with more bolts it is setting on level table. Any advice will be appreciated

[powerrodsmike]

Is this an unboxed stock frame?

Later, mikey

[Irelands child]

I guess that first, welcome aboard since this is your first post.

What are you using the frame for - a restoration or a hot rod. If it's a resto, you can probably do it how you mentioned, get it close then shim the body and forget about any out of alignment. If it's a street rod, why not take this opportunity to disassemble it completely, grit blast, straighten each rail individually, weld up any cracks, and I gotta say, most have cracks. The next would be to replace the front and rear cross members which are prone to cracking as well and, of course, box it completely for strength. These frames are flexible as a wet noodle, (roads in the '30's dictated that they were assembled that way) and were built for 40 raging horse power. Or, even better, buy a NEW perimeter frame from suppliers like TCI or Brookville and have all new steel instead of some tired and rusty 75+ year old steel that has endured too many bumps, ruts and maybe a few wrecks.

Dave W

[lotusteve]

Good day !
Yes I am new to this sight and new to computers I am 65 years young and
have been into Hot Rods since high school. This project is a 1929 roadster
Pickup and has a tube frame that is Zed 6in and 10in front 6 rear 10
the frame is new and the Hot Rod will be just that a Hot Rod I am building it with my son 38 yrs old he has never assisted me on a build before and his 20mo son is fascinated with any thing related to cars. So when I kick the kid will have a garage built Hot Rod.
My thought's are to secure one end on level table with 1/2in bolts and by placing shims under the side that touches on the other end this should tweak the frame as it is torqued down' Frame already has front and rear crossmembers. I am a retired Heavy equipment mechanic and have seen large 100 ton truck frames done this way at on-sight shops so guess this will work I will except any assistance offered as two or three knowledgeable minds are better than one THANK YOU FOR ANY AND ALL HELP>
Steve

[Irelands child]

OK - now I get it!!!!

We (at least me) figured you had an OEM frame that had been 'tweaked' and needed to bounce some ideas around.

Without seeing the tube frame, you might just be getting yourself into a problem with welds tearing out, but if you had a picture to upload, and could show what the problem is and where, maybe we can help. Yeah, you can do this twist fix with an 'I' beam truck frame made fron 1/4 - 3/8 steel, but a .100 or so tube version may not be so easy. What is the tube - round, square, rectangular, one piece, assembled from several pieces???

Dave W

[lotusteve]

The frame is 2in X 4in tube .065 wall it was pressure formed to stock A (28/29 frame dimensions frame horns ETC) extended 3in in cab area then was cut at firewall and rear of cab. Zeed up 6in and 10 with 28/29 A model crossmember in front and rear. No center crossmember. When setting level on one end the other end has approx 1/2in daylight under one rail or is approx 1/2 out of level across the rails It was welded at both kickups but not fishplated yet. Thank You for any and all help.
Steve

[powerrodsmike]

Originally Posted by Lotusteve

The frame is 2in X 4in tube .065 wall

.065 wall isn't very thick for a frame.... .120" or thicker is the norm.

I'd hold the frame down straight (as you say) and heat the welded joints evenly with a rosebud until just a dull red. Let it air cool naturally . If it springs back, you may need to preload the low side with some shims and do it again.

That's what I would try.


You could try it without heat, push it about 3-5x the amount it's off past the straight position so when it springs back it will be straight.

Later, mikey

[Flipper_1938]

Chain it down to something big and jack up the low corner.

You would be amazed with what I have seen my dad straighten with a 15 inch I-beam, two big ole chains and a 30 ton bottle jack.

[Irelands child]

I can't disagree with what Mikey said - with only the front and rear cross members, will probably straighten fairly easily especially with the .065 thickness - seems very light. My TCI chassis is 2x4x.125 rectangular tubing and is heavy as well as being stiff !!!!

Dave W

[lotusteve]

THANK YOU ! for the input and I stand corrected the tubing is .120 and the jack and heat has brought it back to level. Thank you again. This is a great
Web sight with kind and friendly folks KEEP ON RODDING
Steve