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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2010, 06:30 AM
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My Epoxy Coat is still going strong after four years now. I did use the flakes, but not the anti-slip grit. All of the flakes lay flat within the epoxy, not on top of it, so I don't necessarily see the need for a clear top coat.
I do have a question though, for Christinem of Epoxy Coat. I seem to remember when I purchased my kits back in 2006 that Epoxy Coat was not too big on putting a clear coat over it's product. I haven't gone back and researched the website to find that statement, but now I see Epoxy Coat promoting a clear coat for their products. Has something changed that now a clear coat is recommended?
Please clarify for those intending to use this product the need for, or cautions against, using the clear coat over the color coat, flakes, and anti slip, etc.
Thanks,

Steve

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Old 12-02-2010, 07:22 AM
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In response to the clear coating questions.
We do offer 2 types of clear coats. The first is our clear epoxy, not very good if you get alot of UV light, it can amber.The second would be our polyurea clear coat, very strong durable and nearly 100% UV resistant, great for use in high UV exposure or outdoors.
There are a couple reasons we decided to offer clear coats, but by no means do we insist on their use. If you use heavy flake, a clear coat will make the floor more shiny. If you use a decal on the floor, you need to use a clear coat to seal it in. You also can use a clear for a less expensive way to build depth to the floor. It is also a good choice for people that abuse their floor, It is cheaper and easier to match clear if your floor gets scratched.
I hope this helps, if anyone needs more info on this feel free to contact me.
Christine
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:03 PM
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Epoxy Coat

We had Epoxy Coat without the clear coat. It really didnt hold up well. MOST definitely should have been clearcoated. Our flakes since not clearcoated have accumulated lots of dirt around the edges. We chose to not use it on our new shop out back.

We went with Armorclad, and it seems so far to be a far superior product at about the same price when you include the clear coat.

Ucoatit our neighbor has, its horrible, overpiriced home center paint in my opinion.
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:21 AM
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REdoing an epoxy coated floor.

I applied the U Coat it System about 5 years ago. I have areas where the paint has peeled. Has anyone redone a previously epoxyed floor? Can you simply paint over the old paint or does it have to be removed? And if so, what's the best way to remove the old paint?
The flooring does have a clear coat on it too.
A lot of questions. I know, but enquiring minds want to know....
Thanks, all.

RSS
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS04
I applied the U Coat it System about 5 years ago. I have areas where the paint has peeled. Has anyone redone a previously epoxyed floor? Can you simply paint over the old paint or does it have to be removed? And if so, what's the best way to remove the old paint?
The flooring does have a clear coat on it too.
A lot of questions. I know, but enquiring minds want to know....
Thanks, all. RSS
I'm not a pro, but I have done several epoxy floors with several different products. My first experience was U-Coat-It which I was not happy with and wouldn't use again.
However, the epoxy itself adheres to properly prepared concrete as well as any of the others I have used.
Therefore, I think your peeling problem is related to your concrete not the epoxy. If adhesion wasn't the problem, no, you wouldn't have to remove the existing epoxy. You could just rough it up by sanding an apply more. In your case, I would advise you to remove all the epoxy and re-prep your concrete properly before using more epoxy. I am not a fan of using acid for prepping concrete. I think it is much better to diamond grind or shot peen. You should be able to rent that equipment and it will kill 2 birds doing that way anyway since either of these methods should remove your epoxy and prep the floor at the same time. At least I know diamond grinding will. I've done that. But, I've never used a shot-peening machine.

The other thing to think about here is if your adhesion problem could have been caused by moisture from underneath. If so, there are things you can do to eliminate that problem too.

But hopefully, your adhesion problem was due to an insufficient etch. Also, if your adhesion is limited to spots in the area under where cars were parked, you might have not had it degreased well.
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:32 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I should have clarified...the epoxy was scratched off when I had some stuff delivered and a heavy container scraped off some of the coating all the way to the concrete. I applied the original coating a few months after the concrete was laid, so it was on a new floor. It has held up surprisingly well but there is that one area where the coating has been scratched off.
I'll follow your advise and rough up the areas I want touched up and see what happens. Thanks again for your advise. Anyone else with experience in touching up surfaces?

RSS
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:45 PM
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I did a ton of research and internet reading on this subject, ended up going with Epoxyguard,, liked the fact that it was 100% epoxy,, as opposed to the solvent or water based materials at the box stores. If I was putting the floor coating in a commercial / very high use area, would have gone with a commercial product.
From the internet sites, it appears that Epoxyguard and Epoxycoat are similar, I remember finding info that the Epoxyguard has a higher adhesion factor, or maybe it was tensile, perhaps Christine can clarify that.

Mine went on a "new" floor,, allowed it to age 6 months, had the builder not apply any sealer. The organic salt surface prep mixture that came with the product was about worthless,,
not nearly the adhesion texture that I was looking for, bought 2 gallons of muratic acid and all was good,, again, I knew what I was looking for, concrete texture about like 100 grit sandpaper....
The Epoxyguard is a one coat system,, had read about the issues with a shiny coating getting slick when wet,, so went with the aluminum oxide in place of the flecks..

Product went on as advertised, my sq footage took a kit and a half,, did the half a kit first then the full kit,, had me and two other guys,, one guy did the pouring and edge trim work, one pushed the trowel, one did the rolling, the dude doing the edging then came back and spread the oxide.

turned out great.
here are photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1371835...7625731579917/

put it down in October 2010, no issues to date, will know more in about another 10 years.

Last edited by DadTruck; 01-18-2011 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 03:45 PM
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epoxy

Two of my car club buddies also installed the Armorclad. Our club had a meeting in one of their big shops, and wow, it was amazing. They did a much nicer job that we did! I thought it was wet when I walked it, it was so shiny. These guys are also very tough and high usage and it seems to be holding up great.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:19 PM
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One comment above said he used a welding blanket to protect the floor. I can not see myself doing that. Any experience welding over a finished floor? How did the floor hold up? What product did you use? Was it clear coated?
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:30 PM
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Doesn't matter if it's cleared or not or what kind of epoxy it is. Welding spatter will put burn spots in it regardless.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:45 PM
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u-coat it

Dont waste your time with the ucoat it. the life time warranty they claim to have is crap, I put their product on my floor brand new never had anything parked on it. did the prep work as stated in the instructions and on the dvd.
it went down ok looked great for may be 6-8 months with normal work in my garage. jacks and droping tools it chipped and started flaking off, thought ok no major deal these guys warranty their product so its all good. well after jumping though all the hoops they asked for samples and pictures about 3months later they told me i had soft concrete and that my claim was void. but I could get 20 percent off an order to redo my 21/2 car garage. armor coat is much better product ,
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:36 AM
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Thank you!

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone on this thread for the wealth of practical information. I am about to move into a new house and this saved me some regret in the garage floor coating department.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2011, 11:57 AM
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Check this out:

http://www.alphagarage.com/

He uses a few pictures from my Gas Station themed workshop in his gallery.

The Wolverine is excellent quality. My floor is coming up 3 years old and has held up really well. I'm really glad I went with the upgrade urethane clearcoat versus the epoxy clear coat. I used the epoxy clearcoat on my workbenches and it has yellowed some near the windows. No surprise though as it's known clear epoxy will yellow in sunlight and urethane doesn't.

I have a writeup on the Garage Journal of my Wolverine floor install if you are thinking about going this route.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2011, 12:08 PM
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This category of our Knowledge Base may also be helpful: Garage Floor Coatings.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:58 PM
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floor coating

recently opened and upholstery shop to support my restorations. painted floor with Devoe epoxy. They sold me the wrong clear an ruined my floor.
leasons learned. I rented a floor snader from Sunbelt Rentals (about $100 with stones) took 7 hrs for 1000 sq ft of rough floor. If you do not sand, you must acid etch with muratic acid from a swimming pool supply company (dilute 28% acid by 1/2 to 1/3) and wash off. Seal with concrete sealer. roll this on with a roller. It goes on very thin. I did 1000 sq fet with one gallon and a fine nap roller. Let dry for 24 hours. then with fine nap roller roll on unthinned 2 part epoxy floor coating very quickly in 10ft x10ft areas. I used 3 2galon kits for 1000 ft. I bought colored paint ships and sprinkled on floor and thenclear coated. Grab handfull of chips and toss upwards into the air. Let dry for 24 hours and roll on 2 part epoxy clear coat. PPG, Sherwin Williams, Devoe all sell about the same product at about the same price. Devoe has a good color selection, but I guess I will have to hire a lawyer to get my floor redone, because they sold me the wrong clear and it ruined my beautiful job. Even with the yellowed clear coat my floors look a 100 time better than they did and they are much easier to sweep and keep clean.
Good Luck
Fred at apollosigns.com
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