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Old 12-08-2008, 09:29 AM
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U Coat it floor coating

Need some input on this floor coating system. I would like opinions from people who have actually used it, no anecdotal opinions please. I have seen the videos and been to the web site, and have seen reviews of it on TV, but you know how much of that is BS.

How well does it hold up to what we would typically spill on it?

How well does it hold up to rolling steel roller jacks over it, and jack stands?

I know expecting it to not chip if I drop a starter or water pump on it is expecting a little too much, but what about dropping hand tools on it, will it chip?

Thanks
Vince

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Old 12-08-2008, 10:47 AM
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I have used the U-Coat it system, and I am very pleased with the results.

I have placed jack stands on it without damage.

The biggest problem is the prep work. You have to be sure the floor is clean or it will peal. Also, give it several days to cure.
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:40 PM
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Vince,

Do not buy U-Coat-It. It is a major rip off. I used it on my last workshop and was not happy. It goes on very THIN, won't cover any concrete imperfections and has little shock protection. It also wears through very quickly.

U-Coat-It is a low (41%) solids water-based product and it's priced at $92 a gallon.
You can get a good quality 100% solids epoxy for $75 a gallon. So, Ucoat-It is 60% less final product on your floor for $17 more a gallon!

I am in the process of doing my new workshop and have Wolverine epoxy on order right now.
I have started a thread on my progress just today over on the Garage Forum.
Here's a link:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=26308

I would be glad to answer more questions as I have been researching different epoxies for quite a while. I am quite anal about choices I am making for my new Gas Station Workshop. Take a few minutes and go through my build thread if you will:
Designing New Garage

Roger

Last edited by roger1; 12-09-2008 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:39 AM
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Vince,

I didn't reply to your post at first since it sounded like you had made up your mind about U-Coat-It and since I used another product, I had nothing to add.....
However, now that Roger has opened the door and told you what he used, I'll now do the same.
After investigating a lot of different brands, mostly from reading threads on The Garage Journal , I decided to use the Epoxy-Coat brand. I found that with the U-Coat-It brand, it was multiple coat process with the color coat first and then a highly recommended clear coat over the color.
Epoxy-Coat is a very thick one-coat epoxy that does not need a clear coat on top. In fact the manufacturer recommends not to use a clear top coat at all.
Just like Roger, I have documented my application here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...light=steve392
It's a "lessons learned" write-up documenting the whole process. After over two years of use, the floor still looks great. I do not "baby" this floor. I drag a floor jack around on it with no ill effects. The only time I cover up the floor when doing work is when welding. Then I put down a welding blanket just to make sure. The floor has lost a little of its shine where I do most of my work, but cleans up real well with some Simple Green. I've spilled gasoline, oil, and anti-freeze on the floor, and although I wipe it up as soon as I see it, I see no ill effects.
As 30modela stated, the biggest and most important part of the whole job is the prep work, regardless of which brand you use.

Hope this helps,
Steve
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:58 AM
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Vince,

I can back up what Steve says about EpoxyCoat since I have recently used it too.
I used the EpoxyCoat in the 320 ft2 clean room of my new workshop. (It is a 100% solids epoxy designed for a single coat without a clear.)
I used one 3 gallon kit which was a 15 mil coat over the 320 ft2.
and I thought it was the perfect amount. Although they say the 3 gallon kit will cover 450 ft2, I think that is stretching it too much. They provide flakes with their kit, but personally, I would not use them (I didn't). IMO, flakes are better with a system that does use a clear coat over them.
The one thing I wish I had done was to have thinned the mixture a little before applying. I did end up with roller marks as it doesn't self level that well. However, I am fine with that as I wasn't trying for a perfect look for the clean room. It will be where most of my heavy duty work will get done.

Just for reference, for the amount of epoxy U-Coat-It recommends applying, the color ends up being 3 mils thick and the clear 2 mils thick for a total dry thickness of 5 mils.
Compare that to the thickness of the EpoxyCoat and you can see why the U-Coat-It is just a marketing gimmick.
My Wolverine floor will be over 27 mils total dry thickness.

Roger
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:58 AM
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Thanks guys, no I have not made up my mind, still doing research.

Update: Just went to the epoxy-coat web page, I think I'm sold on it.

Vince

Last edited by 302 Z28; 12-10-2008 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:15 AM
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Vince,

I think you will be happy with Epoxy-Coat for an easy to apply single coat system that will hold up well to heavy use and abuse.

How are you going to prep your floor? I would advise grinding (like I did) versus acid. Also, the acid they gave me with the Epoxy-Coat kit wouldn't do squat as far as etching my floor.
My advice would be to throw away the flakes and the acid that comes with the kit. I wouldn't use the non-slip grit either. The squeegee they give you works well but I would buy an 18" roller frame and a few 3/8 nap 18" roller covers from Lowes.

I would also advise you to have a weed blower handy to pop the bubbles you will get during the application.

Last edited by roger1; 12-10-2008 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:54 PM
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JMO, but you need a two-part epoxy to have a durable floor. I am going to use AMERLOCK http://www.corrotherm.com/ameron.htm It is tough as nails. We used it on our hangar floors and it is awesome. Can be tinted as well. Prep is important no matter what you do. Clean the concrete well, acid etch or whatever the paint store recommends to get any oil and grease out. Make sure you wear good PPE, P100 mask and good ventilation, it will smell for a few days but its the difference between painting your car with a rattle can or dupont automotive paint. If you go with any of the hardware store 'kits' I would plan on redoing it every few years. JMO and you need to decide how hard you will be on the finish.
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:56 PM
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The gallery at Epoxy-Coat has me sold too. I purchased these kick butt colored stains with thick clear to put over it, but I like the solid colors better. I may order myself.

Jason
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:21 PM
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U Coat it epoxy

I was a U coat it distributor for several years. I read most of the post and would like to fill your readers in U Coat IT.

They do not make the product. It is make by National Polymers you can see them at www.nationalpolymers.com
I had many failures and we did not get any help from U Coat it. All they want is your money. They have a life time warranty? Big deal. They will send you a small amount of PAINT and that is all you get. If you have a large failure then they say it was put down wrong. If you want more info send me an e-mail. They are a joke. Should not be allowed to make claims like they do. It will not hold up in a garage that is used to work on cars on a regular basic.
Good luck
colt9@mac.com
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Old 03-13-2010, 10:21 AM
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Por-15

I really like POR-15 products......has anyone used the POR-15 floor coatings? I am going to do the floor of my garage this summer and I am still on the fence regarding what to use. about 1/3 of the floor in my garage is new, but the rest is approximately 45 years old. It is a little pitted, but in really good shape structurally and it is about 6" + in thinckess.


Thanks Bernie
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:27 AM
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I would recommend using something with at the very least a 12 to 15 mil finished thickness. Anything less than that will not fill even minor pitting.

I've used U-Coat-It, Epoxy-Coat, Rustoleum, Quikcrete, Griots and most recently Wolverine. My final thickness from the Wolverine system was 27 mils. It was definitely the best quality of anything I've used.
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:44 PM
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Epoxy-Coat

Hi, This is Christine from Epoxy-Coat, thank you for the props to all who have posted. If I can answer any questions or help anybody in any way, please feel free to ask. I am not just here to peddle my product, but to help if anyone needs general questions answered.

If anyone wants to order, I will give members free shipping, just call and ask for me.

Last edited by christinem; 10-07-2010 at 12:46 PM. Reason: added on
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:21 PM
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Epoxy Garage Floor

Our new 3200 sq ft shop we used Armorclad from a company called Armorpoxy. We used the Military grade 2 part topcoat. Costs about the same as Ucoatit, but it is a100% solids system and is probably ten times thicker than the Ucoat it my neighbor has. Ucoatit is just a marketing company, the post on here is correct, they make nothing, they buy the stuff for like 20 bucks/gal and sell it for close to 100/gal and its almost half water!!!

Epoxy Coat we had in front garage and its horrible, worn out in 2-3 yrs, should have been topcoated. All they tell you is that you dont need the topcoat to make it cheaper and get your $$. All the flecks get dirty without topcoat and are impossible to clean.

The Armorclad has been down about 2 yrs and looks brand new, and the nicest people to do business with. WELL worth the money.

Home centers sell garbage, stay away from them. Only go with a 100% solids system with a special topcoat, its the only thing that works and is reasonably priced. We cant find anything that will attack it.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike99
Ucoatit is just a marketing company, the post on here is correct, they make nothing, they buy the stuff for like 20 bucks/gal and sell it for close to 100/gal and its almost half water!!!
Agree 100%

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike99
Epoxy Coat we had in front garage and its horrible, worn out in 2-3 yrs, should have been topcoated. All they tell you is that you dont need the topcoat to make it cheaper and get your $$. All the flecks get dirty without topcoat and are impossible to clean.
Not my experience with EpoxyCoat. I have it in my workroom and I abuse the heck out of that floor. It is holding up very well. But I do agree with you about the flakes. I wouldn't ever consider using flakes without a clear topcoat. I didn't use the flakes nor the clear.
I wouldn't shy away from recommending EpoxyCoat to someone. But, if they wanted flakes, I'd say get their kit with the clear.
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