[Bobs36ford]

Hi
I have additional info about my u joint angle. First of all , i took a closer look at my problem and i think the angle is closer to 10 degrees not 20*. I have (2) questions

#1 see attachment of rear u joint and the 2 inch lowering block
in the background. If i were to change the lowering block to 1 inch wouldn't that change the u joint angle?

#2 see attachment drawing of the yoke. It only measures 5" from rear of trans. Is that OK ?

Bob

[user151]

#1 -- I can't answer this, I do not know, but from the photo it doen't even look like ten degrees - buy an angle finder (about $5) and check.

#2 -- 5" may or may not be OK depending on the length of the yoke splined shaft ... the usual check is to push the yoke all the way in, then pull out one inch - that's where it should be with the car at rest and supported on the rear axle while this check is done.
Now with it out the one inch you can make the measurement you show in the photo and compare it to your 5 inches.

[Frisco]

Originally Posted by Bobs36ford

Hi
I have additional info about my u joint angle. First of all , i took a closer look at my problem and i think the angle is closer to 10 degrees not 20*. I have (2) questions

#1 see attachment of rear u joint and the 2 inch lowering block
in the background. If i were to change the lowering block to 1 inch wouldn't that change the u joint angle?

#2 see attachment drawing of the yoke. It only measures 5" from rear of trans. Is that OK ?

Bob

Not sure why you started a new thread on this. Original Thread

My last reply to the original thread was numbered as #33.

I have posted a copy of your original pic of the front yoke of your driveshaft below.

To reply to your new questions in this post:

#1. Changing to a shorter lowering block will not change the angle of the front and/or rear u joints enough to correct your vibration.

#2. From your sketch of the front driveshaft u-joint and yoke and from your original pic of that yoke, I would suggest that the yoke is not far enough into the trans to operate correctly. (The rust rings seen in your pic are probably caused by the trans seal when the yoke was installed at some time to the correct depth.) The yoke not being far enough into the trans tail shaft is more than likely the cause of the vibration you have as well as causing the trans tailshaft seal to be in such poor condition. The yoke length is probably correct. The actual problem is that the overall length of the driveshaft is too short and should be corrected.

As I asked in your original thread, how are you determining the angle(s)?

user151 mentioned a method that is commonly used to determine the correct installed depth of the yoke in his post above.

[prostreet6t9]

Work on your front angle first as talked about in the other thread. Post a pic's of your new angles. No,, its not 20 deg's, but it's not correct.

After you get better angles check that D/L for being too short.

[Centerline]

Based on the picture your front driveshaft yoke isn't fully seated on the trans output shaft and that can easily cause driveline vibration.

Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"Horsepower sells cars, Torque wins races." – Carroll Shelby

[prostreet6t9]

[QUOTE=Centerline]Based on the picture your front driveshaft yoke isn't fully seated on the trans output shaft and that can easily cause driveline vibration.

X2.. Get that front angle fixed so when the D/L problem in fixed the shaft will be spot on.

[S10xGN]

If you don't believe these guys, remove the driveshaft, grab the splined output shaft of the transmission, and give it a good wiggle. Once you see how much movement you get, you'll have more appreciation for what the tailshaft bushing does for stabilizing the rear yoke. On your car, it appears the yoke isn't in far enough to be fully in the bushing. Hopefully, the bushing hasn't been damaged...

Russ