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Old 03-18-2006, 08:32 AM
Redman Racing
 
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U-joint removal

now that I have the rear in my car done. I was wondering about just replacing the u-joints for safty. They are original and I think it is time for a change. The driveshaft is a off a 85 cutlass and I believe there is some kind of factory sealer or injection?? that hold the u-joint in. To push the cap out do I have to heat the cap and melt the original injection. If you know what I am talking about give me some insight and kind of a idea on what to do??

Thank you for your time???

I have a big vise clamp and a tourch and the idea on how to, just need some experience to guide me.

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Old 03-18-2006, 08:49 AM
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Basicly just use the torch to heat the top side of the joint and just dont stay in one spot to long... The plastic injection will come out pretty quick like a snake out of the hole... Once it quits coming out move to another cup and do the same... I use an old 11/16ths impact socket and 3lb shop hammer to knock out the old cups of the joint... The C clamp or a good vise works good to install the joint which uses inside clips to retain the cups... OTC and other tool makers have their own versions of basicly a large C clamp that you can use your impact with for both removal and installation of the U-joints...
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Old 03-18-2006, 08:51 AM
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If you can see plastic inside a little hole, then it is one of the joints that is held together with an injected polymer. Heat with a torch, then press it out. Then clean out all the old gunk, and the new joint should hve some clips tht hold the joint together, either internal or external. If you have a lot of trouble getting the joint apart, then you can buy a small press made for U-joints. You don't need a special tool though, I use a bench vise and some old sockets, and a hammer.
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:00 AM
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Thanks guys, Bumpstick,TechnTool - you guys are alright in my book.
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:18 AM
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Be very careful not to stand over the top of the u-joint caps as you heat them, I have had many caps blow off and hit the ceiling and leave dents in it, cant imagine what it would do to a persons face.

Steve
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Old 03-18-2006, 09:44 AM
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I still remember the first injected u-joints I did with a torch. When the plastic got hot, apparently it go TOO hot. The plastic must have "gassed off" some flamable stuff and shot a flame out of the little hole about 2 feet. Scared the crap out of me! Glad my face was not in the way!

Mark
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Old 03-18-2006, 06:47 PM
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thanks for the warning!!!
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:15 PM
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O.K., Let's be clear about torching Anything. Wear protective gloves, face-gear, and either a thick apron, or jacket, and work boots. Don't go torching in a T-shirt, barefaced with sneakers on.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:20 PM
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Well yous were rigt about the pop, almost like a mini explosion. I got them done in about an hour and a half, that is with removal installation and putting the exhaust back in place(dual 3 in with H-pipe>not much room). I guess not bad for first time. Thanks for giving me the stafty tips, all of them popped. They are are a little bit of a pain but I got throught it.

Thank you!
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:57 PM
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I just did both U-joints on my project. I'm usually a do-it-yourselfer but this time I decided, after wasting a lot of time shopping around, to take the shaft to the local U-Joints Inc. They repaced both U-joints for $30 bucks and change with made in the USA Spicers' while I waited. Then I decided to have them balance/rebalance it for $25 bucks (I figured it was cheap insurance and it did take one weight). It was done when I came back after lunch.

I brought them a clean drive shaft that I took to the quarter pressure car wash, went over it with foamy engine cleaner and some scotchbrite before I sprayed it off. After dry I sprayed it with some gloss black not worrying about masking anything except the end of the slip yolk. When the new U-joints were in it looked, and no doubt will work, like a new drive shaft.

NAPA wanted $49.95 each only for the U-joints, Checker wanted $24.95 ea and AutoZone wanted $12.95 ea. I figure I came out ahead...
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:24 PM
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They'll hammer out without heat if you use a 3# hammer and have a suitable way of holding the shaft still. The U-joint guy I used had a heavy steel table for backup, and mine came out OK when he hammered on them.
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:01 AM
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I used to use the 10 inch vise and a 3 pound hammer, now the air gun and ball joint/universal removal tool.

Just a couple trigger pull's away from the job getting done now and I can do it under the vehicle, this makes the 2 piece driveshaft's a bunch easier if only one joint needs changed.
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