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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2004, 07:14 PM
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Post (un)Official HR.COM racing mower needs help

See my photo album... it's yellow, old, and kinda banged up, a'la Rat Rod.

Anyways, when I turned the key, it won't click, turn over, or anything. It first did this yesterday, and after a few minutes I tried again and it would turn over, and start. Later, my grandpa came over when I got done getting into mischief and disturbing our quiet neighborhood, it fired right up. (straightpipes.... )

So, today I go out, and nothing once again. I turn the key to On, and tutn the lights on. Shining bright. Test voltage 12 volts.

Oddly, I don't believe it has ever done this to me, but this is my 1st year of ownership (original owner was a friend of the family, moved far far away in the spring). It has been cold for the past few days here in Michigan. I think it's the starter solenoid.

The tractor dates back to '71ish, had a new B&S short block a few years back, and fight after I got it I freshened it up as seen in my photo album (click on my avatar, I think) and new battery cables. I did not replace the starter solenoid, which if I'm right is a little black thing that connects the + (red) battery cable to, and a couple of smaller wires.

What do you guys think?
thanks,
Matt

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Old 11-27-2004, 09:52 PM
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What's it do on the dyno?

If you're getting voltage to the solenoid, then it's either that or the starter motor itself.
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:20 PM
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yeah thats the solinoid.. where did you test the voltage at?
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:56 PM
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battery: 12 volts, 13.5 would be ideal though

I didn't test voltage at the solenoid though.

Also- it seems to be always charging, according to the ammeter, perhaps it's trying to charge the battery to 13.5volts but the batt won't take the charge. When it was warmer out, it'd be closer to 0, just a smidgen on the charge side. (needle 1/2 on and 1/2 off 0) Is this the voltage regulator, or possibly related to the solenoid?

Thanks again guys,
Matt
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Old 11-28-2004, 04:46 PM
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Check all the connections on the ignition switch. This may sound odd but get a bottle of "Kaboom". This is what Billy Mays advertises on TV that he shows will clean a copper penny like new. You can find it in your local grocer in the bathroom isle. Spray the contacts real good and then dry. Squirt some WD40 into the switch itself. I betcha' it will start every time after that.

Kevin
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Old 11-29-2004, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MI2600
What's it do on the dyno?

If you're getting voltage to the solenoid, then it's either that or the starter motor itself.
Hmmm, I'm not sure, more than a Honda Civic would at 3600 max. rpm though, and a lot more torque too. I think the Honda would have greater peak hp though, but the engine is a lot bigger than the briggs.
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Old 11-29-2004, 01:07 PM
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Remove the battery cables from the battery. Clean the battery posts and the inside of the battery cable connectors. Scrape them with a pocket knife until you have shiny lead showing. Re-connect and everything should be OK.
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:34 PM
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I turn the ignition switch to "on" (or run) and turn the lights on. Nice and bright. Starter solenoid must be.

Why is it always charging on the ammeter, even after running for 30 minutes. battery has 12 volts in it (I tested it the other day)
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Old 12-02-2004, 05:48 PM
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mabye you got a short somewhere??
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Old 12-14-2004, 11:48 AM
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UPDATE:
I swapped in a new solenoid. bye-bye USA one, welcome Made in Mexico for $30. ( damn it, cant they make anything other than Craftsman tools here anymore?) Ironically, it says mexico on the solenoid itself, USA on the John Deere part box. Can't they make the stupid box in mexico and the part in the states? AAGH!

I hit the switch, and nothing. I put the key to "on" and the lights wont come on anymore. Battery checks in ok, a little over 12v with dads ancient voltmeter.

Sadly, I had to pull the starter/generator since the start solenoid was right beneath it. Well, there's 2 terminals on it, and 2 little wires that go to it, besides the big wire from the solenoid. Well, I hope those 2 little wires are in the correct place, since that was a b* to do.

LESSON: I should've replaced the switch.
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Old 12-14-2004, 08:23 PM
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lesson learned

test voltage before replacing anything it still may be the switch. throwing parts at an engine can get pricey quick testing is much cheaper in the long run.
so do yourself a fovor and start testin for voltage even if you only use a test light at least you can follow where there is and isn't voltage.
Jesse
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Old 12-22-2004, 05:22 PM
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thanks much for the info and advice. How would I test the switch, I asume it's toast since the lights wont come on now.

It's about 17 outside, so if I get the balls to go out and mess around in temps like that in an unheated garage, you know I'm a car guy.
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Old 01-02-2005, 05:33 PM
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using 2 threads for related problems on the same... ummm... project mower is impractical and stupid. so please refer to this link.

http://hotrodders.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54158
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