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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-14-2004, 07:58 PM
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Post (un)Official HR.COM racing mower needs more help

*The Scoop
When it's running (when it ran, well, it'll run but won't crank over. Once that's done she'll run better than my grandma's mower tractor that's 1/3 its age) the little beast indicates charge, and always charge, as in 5+amps (ammeter only goes to 10). Of course it doesn't put this out at idle, but at 1/4 throttle or more, 5+ amps. Let it run at full throttle (3600rpm) for 30 minutes and it still shows charge at the 5+amps. This condition came the same time the tractor wouldn't crank over or click but just lights sometimes, and others she'd fire right up. After a few startups like this, it just wouldn't click or turn over or anything.


*As for the "surgical complications"
Also, the starter-generator has 2 small terminals on it in addition to the "juice wire" that goes to the solenoid. Well, when I took it out so I could get at the solenoid, I set it down on the footrest on the tractor, and I bumped it, so the wire connectors broke.

How can I tell what goes where? The juice wire is pretty idiot proof, but those 2 little ones Before I could turn the key to on and turn the lights on. Turn it to start, nothing. Now, Iturn the key to on, and the lights wont do anything.

Why did I have to remove the starter/generator? The starter solenoid is located right beneath it. AAGH!


*My Verdict
It's the switch. I'm going to swap the old solenoid back in and get my $30 back if the old one works ok. The "always charging" issue, either a short, or the voltage regulator (box that a few small wires go to), which is worse to get at than the solenoid.

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Old 12-15-2004, 09:49 AM
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Is it possible to post a pic of that solenoid with the 2 wires your talking about, cause I had a similar problem with a tractor i used to maintain at my old job.My problem was that someone switched the 2 juice wires around (remote solenoid) so I switched them wires back around and it then it was able to be jumped atleast....they wouldn't pay for new parts for me so I didn't worry about it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 05:17 PM
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i'll post a pic asap.
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Old 01-02-2005, 05:53 PM
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Talking PICTURES! YAY!

click on my avatar, they're in a sub-gallery (above main gallery pics). Self-explanatory from there.

feel free to poke around in the main gallery; lots of old unloved cars I take pics of. It's a hobby of mine; preserving what's left... sort of. Wish I had the money, persuasion, knowledge, skills, abilities, and time to fix all of them up. *dream on, dream on... someone play that song please*

but the main idea is the wiring with the (un)official HR.com lawn tractor. I have some Qs in the description of the pics, so to see those you need to click on the thumbnails.
thanks much,
matt
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Old 01-02-2005, 06:14 PM
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This is a bit difficult without actually being there etc. but If it were me, as far as those 2 wires are concerned I'd swap them and see what happens, next time be sure to label JIC If I read right in your gallery you got the engine not turning over problem fixed right?
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:58 PM
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If I could get the engine to turn over (with the starter, no pull-start) it'd fire right up and run like a champ.

It's getting the wiring on the starter straight; the terminal on the right has a small mark near it, and the terminal on the ledt doesn't.

Also, which posts should i jump to test for resistance (ohm meter) to see if the switch is working? Key postitions too, please. Key postitions are Off, Run, and Start.
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Old 01-06-2005, 04:43 AM
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switch?wire?or solonoid?

easy way to test all (and very handy for working on the motor) is make a remote (bypass) starter switch, just 2 alligator clips, 10amp push-in fuse, about 8' of #12 or 14 wire and a toggle switch (radio shack?)

remove the start wire at the solonoid, clip to the batt and solonoid terminal, flip the toggle switch, starter cranks= solonoid and starter are ok.
clip the jumper to the starter switch terminal and solonoid (jumper toggle on), turn the key,motor cranks= bad wire/switch ok,
no crank, clip to the power lead going to the starter switch, motor cranks=bad switch

I think you've got the method by now, works the same for the ign on circuit, lights, etc.

very handy tool, clip the fused end to the batt always

Last edited by red65mustang; 01-06-2005 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 01-07-2005, 01:36 PM
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Re: switch?wire?or solonoid?

Quote:
Originally posted by red65mustang
easy way to test all (and very handy for working on the motor) is make a remote (bypass) starter switch, just 2 alligator clips, 10amp push-in fuse, about 8' of #12 or 14 wire and a toggle switch (radio shack?)

remove the start wire at the solonoid, clip to the batt and solonoid terminal, flip the toggle switch, starter cranks= solonoid and starter are ok.
clip the jumper to the starter switch terminal and solonoid (jumper toggle on), turn the key,motor cranks= bad wire/switch ok,
no crank, clip to the power lead going to the starter switch, motor cranks=bad switch

I think you've got the method by now, works the same for the ign on circuit, lights, etc.

very handy tool, clip the fused end to the batt always
Hey thanks I've been wanting to make one for a while now....
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Old 01-08-2005, 03:03 AM
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your welcome oldschoolrod

Ideas:

Last time my wife killed a hairdryer, I used the coiled cord off of it. Easier to store it with no tangles.

A $.54 120V house wall switch is fine, just tape cover the terminals.

Makes a handy extension wire when your volt meter leads won't reach, easy way to secure a lead end and have the meter where it's easy to read.

Keep it in your car, with more fuses (10 and 20), headlight switch dies, jump the lights from the batt....you get the idea
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Old 01-21-2005, 10:48 PM
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Re: your welcome oldschoolrod

Quote:
Originally posted by red65mustang
Ideas:

Last time my wife killed a hairdryer, I used the coiled cord off of it. Easier to store it with no tangles.

A $.54 120V house wall switch is fine, just tape cover the terminals.

Makes a handy extension wire when your volt meter leads won't reach, easy way to secure a lead end and have the meter where it's easy to read.

Keep it in your car, with more fuses (10 and 20), headlight switch dies, jump the lights from the batt....you get the idea
I like your idea...
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Old 01-22-2005, 03:18 AM
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your welcome as well, Chevelle,

so what's the build on mower?
4:11's
double pumper?
tried nitrous yet?, yard gets done REAL quick......
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Old 02-06-2005, 06:44 PM
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Jeep XJ and a Javelin
 
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I got it running.

It's got a straightpipe, and a "open element" air cleaner since I replaced the stock filter cover with a mason jar lid with a hole in the middle.

A wire came out of the ammeter; stupid thing is wayyy down there and covered in 30 years of dust and crud, it was hard to see. It was the little wire from the + terminal on the battery.

I think the safety switch may be going out, I'll just over-ride it, if I'm stupid, then I shall pay the consequences. No PC stuff for me.

I am thinking of hooking a little 02 bottle (used in propane/02 torches, hotter than just propane) to an old bernz-o-matic torch, plugging the air inlet (space between small tube and bigger tube on end of little tube) and running a hose to the PCV? fitting on the carb, and when I need the o2, just richen the mix a bit. A friend of mine wants me to try it on his car. It's a Nissan Sentra, 1.6 liter. hahahaha
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Old 02-07-2005, 02:43 AM
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adding o2 to a normal engine doesn't work, if it's tuned correctly the fuel to oxygen is already 16:1
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