Update found problems.... - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 08:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Update found problems....

OK hopefully everyone seen my dyno graph. Well I found a borken inner spring on my triple rate springs and under the broken spring were 2 20 thousands shims that were ate down to 2 little 1/8" rings. Then upon putting it back together I noticed that the pushrod was bent a little on that spring. Then I looked the rest over and noticed that on the #3 cyl. the exh valve was bent really bad. So I looked up the number 4086 and 4087 looks to be stock length pushrods I dont see stock length pushrods working with a .714 lift cam solid roller.


    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 08:24 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
Sooooo...... What are you asking? Valves hitting the pistons?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 08:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No the valves arent hitting the pistons. Im asking if stock length push rods would be the cause of how the graph looks. Also why would the shims get ate up under the springs. My engine guy couldnt figure out why they would use to thin 2 20 thousands shims instead of one 40 or 60. There isnt a mark on any of the pistons.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 08:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Also if anyone is familiar with the numbers 4086 and 4087 on pushrods there isnt any other markings on them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:18 PM
johnsongrass1's Avatar
Race it, Don't rice it!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbia, Mo
Age: 38
Posts: 4,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Check the valve guide. If it were to tight and froze the valve the pushrod could bend. Valve heads don't bend unless they hit the piston.

Get your self a plastic pushrod checker, $15 most places. it will get you a ball park measurement on what you need.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:19 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,657
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 59 Times in 56 Posts
info I get with pushrod numbers 215 - 4086 and 215 - 4087 are big block chevy pushrods by Clevite. 4086 being Intake and 4087 being exhaust. These are stock replacement pushrods that sell for around $15 on ebay.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I guess I dont understand why in the world they would use these kind of cheesy stock style pushrods with this kind of motor.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:29 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,377
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 465 Times in 422 Posts
Running with the broken spring will tear up the shims. With a broken spring the spring rate is lower allowing the spring to surge and jump around on the seat, and the broken pieces have jagged ends.

It is possible that the stock length pushrod is correct, but it is also possible that stock length is incorrect, the only way to know is to check out the rocker geometry. Valve stem length, valve lift, cam core base circle diameter, pushrod cup position in the lifter, pushrod cup position in the rocker all play into this, you don't ever know what length is correct until you check it. That's why pushrods should be the last part purchased, the length can't be determined on paper, you have to check it at assembly or trial assemble it up beforehand to determine the correct length.

I would hope with a solid roller you are using either 3/8" diameter .095"+ wall thickness or 7/16" diameter .080"+ wall pushrods, 5/16" is way too small.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:31 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,377
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 465 Times in 422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckollsinc
I guess I dont understand why in the world they would use these kind of cheesy stock style pushrods with this kind of motor.
I would guess that whoever put the engine together doesn't know as much as they think they do....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah I was happy to find out that everything was correct that was told to me. Bored 30 over 12:1's forged pistons, gm performance crank and rods, Comp cams .714/.714 solid roller, comp cams roller lifters, erson 1.7 roller rockers, cam was advanced 2 deg. Compression all checked 180-185. Everything in the engine looks all new. Crosshatching in the cylinder all looked fresh. So I was confused why they used a stock push rod. I will borrow a pushrod checker and get busy.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 10:28 PM
SSedan64's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Macon, GA.
Age: 50
Posts: 6,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 46 Times in 46 Posts
That's Nuts, stock Pushrods with Triple springs on a Solid Roller Cam!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 11:09 PM
American Muscle's Avatar
305 Turbo-Fire 240hp
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: under the hood
Age: 31
Posts: 625
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
what size motor? with the combo you have I would expect higher hp/tq numbers. Was this on a chasis dyno?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 11:26 PM
BigRoy1978's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Hugoton, KS
Age: 25
Posts: 338
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
That's Nuts, stock Pushrods with Triple springs on a Solid Roller Cam!
THAT is why they bent...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 12:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Appomattox, VA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yes thats a chassis dyno 460 bbc 4500 stall th400 4.56's.
They are 3/8" pushrods

One question when checking pushrod length do you need to be at zero lash or set the rocker arm with a feeler guage? I have a solid cam and solid lifters. I did the sharpie test and both intake and exhaust are on the very back of the stem. BUT that was with setting .028 and .030 lash turning the motor 2 times by hand.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:37 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
I have always set the geometry/p-rod length at zero lash, using an adjustable p-rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MII problems- update ( w/ VIDEO ) BobbyG-39 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 18 08-09-2008 07:50 AM
Any Tips / problems found in joining 2 engines together? low budget rodder Engine 3 10-04-2006 06:07 AM
Any Tips / problems found in joining 2 engines together? low budget rodder Hotrodders Site Suggestions and Help 2 10-03-2006 01:51 PM
found a way to fix seat belt problems goth_rod87 Interior 0 06-16-2005 02:11 PM
engine problems update dion Engine 1 08-06-2003 08:52 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.