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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 12:23 PM
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i'm not sure what the purpose of a single relay would accomplish (as posted by vicrod)
all the load is still going thru the headlight switch, the main panel and wiring.

double relays, as posted in 302 Z28's 2nd diagram (the understandable one) has only the control load going thru the switch, dimmer and fuse panel.
the headlight load is carried thru the #10 wire only that is connected to the battery.

i think #10 is a bit overkill and could easily be a #12.
the single relay setup would still overheat the headlite switch

using 2 relays the idea is to mount them on the radiator support or inner fender
you could mount them under dash but it would add more wire and potential voltage drop to the circuit.
with 302 Z28's diagram you could change out the headlight fuse to a 5 amp fuse

ogre

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 12:43 PM
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That was what I was thinking too. I just added relays to my car with H-4 almost exactly like "the understandable one". I used 12 ga wire for the power and the ground. I did not see any rise in wire temp after 2 min testing.

The dimmer switch terminal temp went from 175 deg F in 2 min to ambient. The headlight switch is up under the dash so I couldn't get a good shot at it but it is markedly cooler to the touch. It is still warm due to the resistor for the inst dimmer but not "ouch" hot like it was before the change.

The lights are much brighter now but I still can't get a good focus for both. I think the only solution is to use an OEM reflector of some sort. It will be a major problem to mount it in the original repop buckets. There just is not any suitable mounts to start with.

I'm open to solutions.
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Old 12-12-2010, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
That is the very reason to use a relay .................
Now your saying "two relays do not make the circuit any safer, nor change the function, gains nothing. Yes it uses more parts and wire, that is all." OK, I'm confused!
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Old 12-12-2010, 01:02 PM
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I think the 2 relay system is better (safer) in that if one drives the high beam and the other drives the low beam you will still have one beam set operational if the other fails. ie relay fails. This assuming the system is parallel wired.

In the real world adding the relay system means ripping up a lot of wires, at least in my case. All of the wires from the firewall forward are incased, hidden and heat shielded so the entire pile of wires had to be opened up. It would have made no difference one relay or two. The cost of the relays is minimal. I was able to use the trigger wires from the dimmer but I also color matched the new wires to the headlights and used black for grounds as I have done throughout the car. Black is always a ground on this car. In the end material cost was also minimal as I had everything to do the job. My labor to do the job was what was difficult.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:16 PM
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See attached schematic using (2) relays.
This arrangement has all the load of the headlights passing through the relays and only relay coil and dash light loads passing through the headlight switch and the dimmer switch.

vicrod
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 005 headlight dimmer (2) relays.pdf (248.7 KB, 80 views)
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2010, 06:22 PM
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headlight upgrade

I need to upgrade the headlights on my antique 22 Ford speedster. the original 3 brush generator won't keep up with the ingition and lights, ( no magneto on this engine), I have modified a 60's ford pickup generator to use the the T gear drive. Has anyone fit the GMC paul's headlite bases to fit in a T electric or 14 style carbide lantern headlights ? I wonder if there is enough space behind the reflector.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicrod
See attached schematic using (2) relays.
This arrangement has all the load of the headlights passing through the relays and only relay coil and dash light loads passing through the headlight switch and the dimmer switch.

vicrod
my only issue with that dwg is that most of the time your headlite switch is wired into a harness and into a fuse panel. the use of relays and trying to get the most power to your lights would need a wire and fuse off the battery to the relays, independent of the smaller wire and smaller fuse to the switch.

bentwings: good feedback on actual temp readings, before and after, to drive home the point
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