Urethane Shine. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 10:02 AM
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Springfield, Oh
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Urethane Shine.

As stated earlier I painted my car with Nason Ful-Thane. I am preparing to wet sand and polish. I need to get the paint flat and the small imperfections out AKA hair, dirt etc. The paint is pretty good now but like I said I want it flat and without any imperfections. I am practicing on a old door right now. I sanded it flat and used a electric DA with a 6" wool pad and polishing compound . The finish is very smooth but not shiny at all still very dull. I have a 10" buffer polisher a 7" electric grinder and 2 6" DA's one electric one air. That I can use. The compound that I have has very little cut to it it is very fine. What I am asking for is the products you guys use. Such as pads, compounds, rpm's I did not think you used any wax this soon on a new paint job. Should paint look shiny after the polishing step? ThanK You Again Richie

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 11:02 AM
BondoKing's Avatar
KING OF BONDO
 

Last journal entry: My little helper
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Age: 40
Posts: 809
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If it is a dark color, dont sand it with less than 2000 since you are new... It takes a hell of allot of work to make dark colors look great again once you begin cutting.... For products.. Some guys use 3M ... some use Mirror Glaze... some use Presta... it is really a preference thing.... I prefer mirror glaze.... Diamond cut compund... followed with Dual action cleaner polish... That is all you should need then.....However with a dark color you may need to add in machine glaze and the softest pad they make... it is a brown in color.... My guy tells me it may add 10% more at most.... It is worth it if it is black... Wait 30 days and then wax it.... Then your shine will last and last

Im sure some other guys will chime in with their methods..

Note: I bought some perfect IT lll and Finesse IT lll and they dont seem to work as well as the mirror glaze I speak of above.... Anyone had the same experience??? 8 or 9 years ago I know the guys where i live were using that set up, of course it was the older versions.... I was really unimpressed with the Finesse it.....

My point... I dont hear anyone speak of using it anymore... Everyone is using glaze instead,... WHY??

Matthew
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 11:16 AM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
BK, You talking about the 3M 3000 series?

I use both II & III but they are the older solvent base compounds.
I use the III extra cut with good results followed by the swirll remover.
The III regular cut is a little on the light side and does require some work using it.
I have not tried Maguires but may when I run out of the 3M.
My question is do you have to use Mag's pads or will the quality foam one's work?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 12:25 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Springfield, Oh
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cut

These compounds that you guys are using are much more aggressive cut than what I am using. If there is still a liittle orange peel after sanding with 2000 will these compounds take it out? I think you have me in the right direction now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
BK, You talking about the 3M 3000 series?

I use both II & III but they are the older solvent base compounds.
I use the III extra cut with good results followed by the swirll remover.
The III regular cut is a little on the light side and does require some work using it.
I have not tried Maguires but may when I run out of the 3M.
My question is do you have to use Mag's pads or will the quality foam one's work?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 12:51 PM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you are having problems and not getting the peel out start with something courser like 1200 or 1500 depending on the amount of peel and "trash". Then go to 2000 for the final. Your buffer will take out 1200 scratches if needed but just takes more work.


Try an area with 1200 and then go to 2000 and then buff.

If its a flat area I would use a semi-hard sanding pad to straighten the urethane a little.

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 12:59 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Orange peel has to be sanded flat.Compound won't do much for it.
The compound is for smoothing out the sand scratch's left after color sanding.The finer grit paper you use for this will determine how much buffing is required. That's why we step up the grit's to 2000. Most of us go with an even finer pad like 3000 or 4000 but these are special set up's for DA's and most hobbiest's don't want to spend the $$$ for them. They make buffing a breeze but the 2000 will work great wet to get the gloss close,then buff with compound.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 03:07 PM
BondoKing's Avatar
KING OF BONDO
 

Last journal entry: My little helper
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Age: 40
Posts: 809
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
BK, You talking about the 3M 3000 series?

I use both II & III but they are the older solvent base compounds.
I use the III extra cut with good results followed by the swirll remover.
The III regular cut is a little on the light side and does require some work using it.
I have not tried Maguires but may when I run out of the 3M.
My question is do you have to use Mag's pads or will the quality foam one's work?

Bro you can use any pad you want... but again from my experience MG has the market on foam pads... They are so much better at doing a good job then the 3m pads I have used... plus MG stuff is cheaper... Quite a bit,and does a better job...

Yes it is the 3000 series i guess... It says Perfect IT lll I guess the lll is for 3000 series??? I was told it was the current one....

I have a brand new bottle of perfect it and Finesse it and am going to sell them on ebay next week...It cost almost double for those two products as it does no MG.

Matthew
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 06:30 PM
mrcleanr6's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: new jersey
Age: 40
Posts: 716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
the perfect III, which i have never tried is different from the 3000. i just bought some 3000 compund (not extra cut) and swirl remover to try it out. i usually use perfect it II and the foam pad glaze. i did a side by side test and the perfecit II worked so much better. maybe i should try the xtra cut, i dont know but i love the good old #2. i worked with the 3000 3 times as much and i still got a deeper more smooth finish with the #2. i cant imagine anything working better or faster. works out 1200 and up then i hit it with a foam pad and the foam pad glaze and its perfect every time.

btw, finesse-it is good stuff but its for fully cured, hard finishes. basically factory paint or they use it alot on boats since gelcoat is very hard. its not a glaze mor like a very fine compond so it will leave swirls on dark colors. you need to glaze afterward.

buffing will not remove any orange peel. it only shine the surface thats there. you will need to wetsand the orange peel out before buffing. start with 1200 then end with 2000. get the surface perfect with the 1200 before moving on, then use the 2000 to remove the 1200 scratches then buff.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 07:23 PM
BondoKing's Avatar
KING OF BONDO
 

Last journal entry: My little helper
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Age: 40
Posts: 809
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You cant buy Perfect IT ll anymore can you?? I thought they did away with that formulation sometime ago.. I thought I had read a post with Barry saying they were pulling it or someithing for health hazards???

Matthew
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 07:38 PM
mrcleanr6's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: new jersey
Age: 40
Posts: 716
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
no, i buy a gallon about every 2 months or so. just got one a couple weeks ago. i know i have heard a few people here on the forum that use it too. i think bob was one. they had better not stop making it or i'll be pissed. its a 2 step system insted of 3. saves me alot of time and results are super.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 08:02 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I guess it's a personal preference and it may be related to how we buff. I like the old perfect it 2 but I've seen some clears that are so hard it doesn't work like it should. The extra cut starts out as a more aggressive compound compared to the perfect it 2 but as you go it breaks down. I did notice some heavy swirl marks with the extra cut on fresher clears so now I use it only on the really hard clears. I've used the perfect it three a few times and didn't care for it at all-didn't cut as fast as 2 and lacked the oils needed to keep it wet for the needed length of time to make a good cut. I always wear a dust mask when buffing because years ago when I used to use the 3M heavy duty compound on lacquer I became sensitized to something in the compound. Nasal passages would close right up and my lungs felt heavy when buffing, a dust mask cleared it all up for me so I've worn one ever since. Maybe it was the silica or the oils I don't know but it was bad. I see people buffing without protection all the time and just shake my head.

I've tried the diamond cut compound and didn't care for it. Never tried Presta but I've heard it really works good and been told there's a private sales person selling it around this area so maybe I'll give it a try.

Somebody here should do a detailed step by step on colorsanding and buffing. Maybe a basic version and also show quality with blocking etc for reference.

richamer1, If you're doing this as a test to get the procedure down you might want to just do all the sanding by hand to get the concept down then turn to the DA and perfect your technique. Sand the panel going in one direction with 1200 or 1500 then switch to 2000 sanding in the opposite direction, squeegee your panel as you wetsand and gradually you'll see the previous grit scratches disappear and now you know you're only left with 2000 grit scratches that will buff easily. Start with compound at slow speed and only concentrate on a 12-16" area and buff till the scratches are gone, then move over and buff another area till the scratches are gone, when all the scratches are gone wash the panel and repeat with a polishing pad and a lighter compound/polish to remove any swirl marks, then glaze it and it should be smooth and shiny with no scratches or swirl marks. Bob

Last edited by baddbob; 09-19-2005 at 08:58 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 08:26 PM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 53
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
Sand the panel going in one direction with 1200 or 1500 then switch to 200 sanding in the opposite direction,
Bob meant to say 2000
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 08:57 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Good catch
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 10:36 PM
grouch's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to document your project
Last journal entry: 1949 Olds -- Rotisserie, pt. 9
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: KY
Posts: 1,143
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrmccabe
Bob meant to say 2000
Oh, great. Now what do I do about these 200 grit grooves?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005, 11:20 PM
BondoKing's Avatar
KING OF BONDO
 

Last journal entry: My little helper
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Kentucky
Age: 40
Posts: 809
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Park it in the shade and pretend they are not there... that is what most bodyshops would do
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
urethane and polyurethane dwhitt Body - Exterior 24 12-28-2012 09:04 AM
Enamel vs Urethane vs Polyurethane???? MARTINSR Body - Exterior 11 07-02-2011 07:58 PM
Epoxy vs Urethane Primer UKLuge66 Body - Exterior 41 11-23-2008 06:50 PM
Urethane and Epoxy Primers bmech211 Body - Exterior 1 04-17-2004 06:04 AM
Urethane Bushings - Yes or No?? Jim Weeks Suspension - Brakes - Steering 5 05-01-2002 09:12 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.