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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2005, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jcclark
As I said before, there is a difference between auto lacquer and
furniture lacquer, it even smells different. The auto lacquer
just doesn't stick to wood that has an oil base stain, I can peel
it off in large sheets. Won't try that again.
I don't know what's different but believe me from my experience
it's different.
*******************
Lacquer resin does not have an oder.
You are smelling solvents and that would be the only difference.
You might try S&W as they probably supply the clear to 80% of the wood people selling the clear. So it should smell the same unless they are using cheaper solvents for certain resellers.
The solvents will effect drying only and sprayabilty.
I don't think anyone in the US is cooking lacquer resins anymore
except S&W, rest would be from Argentina or Brazil.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2005, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
*******************
Lacquer resin does not have an oder.
You are smelling solvents and that would be the only difference.
You might try S&W as they probably supply the clear to 80% of the wood people selling the clear. So it should smell the same unless they are using cheaper solvents for certain resellers.
The solvents will effect drying only and sprayabilty.
I don't think anyone in the US is cooking lacquer resins anymore
except S&W, rest would be from Argentina or Brazil.
It's illegal in Kalifornia.
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Old 01-12-2005, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by willys36@aol.com
It's illegal in Kalifornia.

***************************************
Go figure!
Can a man still marry a women in that state or is it only legal to marry another man?
Just in case I move there, wanted to know in advance.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2005, 09:47 AM
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I think it is still legal to be heterosexual if you don't publicize it. However it is grounds for expulsion from school to promote he/she relationships.

Wow, what does this have to do with fine woodworking?!?!
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 08:34 PM
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I'm in the process of installing a new oak bed into my 67 C-10. I'm using Marine Spar Varnish (oil base). I sure hope it holds up (very labor intensive). The truck will be parked indoors most of the time but will get wet on occasion.
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Old 10-25-2005, 11:40 PM
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Varnish will last most of a year then start lifting. May last longer if never exposed to sunlight and is dried off immediately so water NEVER reaches the wood. Otherwise, plan on stripping, sanding and re-varnishing every 12 months or so for a show (or anywhere close to it) finish.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 01:14 AM
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Wood work

Quote:
Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
Problem comes from moisture from the bottom of the planks, scratches, etc. Marine guys coat their wood with fiberglas cloth inside and out, then clear epoxy and/or marine varnish. Still, if not continuously maintained, water gets into the wood and starts to separate the top coating. Best finish for a truck that isn't a trailer queen is a penetrating oil.
The penetrating oil seems to be the easiest to refinish..tho on the boats it does not seem that one can get away from the annual re-finish deal no matter what kind of stuff one uses..now saying that the boats ride out at anchor in all weather and exposed to salt water..The penetrating oils seem to pick up dirt and pollution over time and turn dark..the urethanes do peel if not maintained. if I were to use a lot of wood I would plan on re-finishing it every year or two as needed to keep it looking wonderful..

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackdog
I'm in the process of installing a new oak bed into my 67 C-10. I'm using Marine Spar Varnish (oil base). I sure hope it holds up (very labor intensive). The truck will be parked indoors most of the time but will get wet on occasion.
I think you'll get the longest life with what you're using.
I've seen boats last way more than a year with Spar Varnish
so surely your truck will last longer.
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:36 AM
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unless you use kiln dried wood the moisture is already in the wood along with sap. sunlight heats the wood and perculates the moisture inside causing bubbles. i have never found a clear that would hold up. i did the 37 pu on my web page with wood sealer and then 3 coats of ppg clear. so far so good but sooner or later it will fail. lasts about 4 years. take it out ,run it thru the drum sander and reapply. on my interior parts i use a polymer. there is a 2 part polyester that holds up but the machine to spray it is high dollar. mixes the 2 at the tip.
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:30 AM
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Take it from me, a woodworker, don't ever use any wood thats not dry.
Even Kiln Dried will pick up to much moisture if not stored indoors.
If you buy cabinet grade wood from a store it will probably be kiln dried
and good to use immediately, if you get construction lumber (like2X4's)
from a lumber yard like Home Depot the wood is kiln dried but not to
a low enough moisture content to clear over. Construction lumber
is typically dried to around 12%, you need cabinet grade which is
closer to 6%. If you want construction lumber, bring it in the house
during the heating season and it will continue to dry.
Can't say how long, to many variables, but maybe 1 to 2 months.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
Varnish will last most of a year then start lifting. May last longer if never exposed to sunlight and is dried off immediately so water NEVER reaches the wood. Otherwise, plan on stripping, sanding and re-varnishing every 12 months or so for a show (or anywhere close to it) finish.
This job has gone like this: Complete bed kit, stainless bed strips, stainless hardware, sand paper, varnish...$1100.

Trial fit, mark boards, drill side holes, disassemble. 8 hrs
Sand boards with 120 than 220. 6 hrs
First coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Second coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Third coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Sand with 220. 4 hrs
Forth coat of varnish. 4 hrs
Final assembly 4 hrs


I willl cut my face off before I refinish the bed again.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 08:31 AM
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I think you'll be fine.
Like I said, there are plenty of boats out there with spar varnish
on them going way more than a year before refinishing,
and they are exposed to the elements much worse than yours.
The key word here is "spar" varnish which is made for weather,
unlike regular varnish that is made for interior use.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:24 PM
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Conversion Varnish

Just thought Id throw this out there.

I don't really know anything about it but I do know that it looks great on my parent's new kitchen cabinets. Conversion Varnish is a catalized finish for wood and it's supposed to last many times longer than lacquer finishes. For all I know it's just regular old cc but it's held up great to the grandkids abusing it. Maybe someone else is a little more familiar with it.

Dusty

(Part-time wood butcher)

Last edited by dustydirt; 10-26-2005 at 02:50 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 02:54 PM
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Dusty,
I really would be scared to give much advice but I do know who can.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...-%20Clears.htm

Go to bottom left hand corner, Kim is a custom wood builder, I have seen $50,000 jobs and $8,000 end table they have done.

On colored wood coated with house of color or one I saw black she follows the perfect paint job.
The cherry was sealed and cleared with universal, bad picture because inside but look at depth on end.

Call her she would help you out as she knows more about wood paint than the makers do.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustydirt
Just thought Id throw this out there.

I don't really know anything about it but I do know that it looks great on my parent's new kitchen cabinets. Conversion Varnish is a catalized finish for wood and it's supposed to last many times longer than lacquer finishes. For all I know it's just regular old cc but it's held up great to the grandkids abusing it. Maybe someone else is a little more familiar with it.

Dusty

(Part-time wood butcher)

i've used alot of conversion varnish. many companies make it. the stuff i always use is from lenmar. i must say that its the easiest stuff on the planet to apply and make look good. holds up well and can be tinted with dye or pigment. available in all sheens. i usually use satin. if i was going to do something ultra high gloss like the cabinets on barry's site i would use a polyurethane clear. used to work for a large yacht manufaturer and every piece of wood in the boat looked like that. guess thats why the were about 3mil a pop. spar varnish is good and has been used for years. it works but is somewhat old school. any boat manufaturer will be using poly clearcoat or a system containg it as the final step. our procedure was a urethane sealer with a dye went on then a clear polyester primer/filler then polyurethane clearcoat. the difference in wood is that you have grain to fill. this becomes a problem when using layers of clearcoat or varnish only because within the first 6mos there is always a little shrinkage and the grain pattern starts showing up in the final finish. its like clearcoating over 40 grit scratches on bondo. the clear polyester primer was used to fill the grain then sanded smooth and topcoated. polyesters dont shrink so you dont get that problem. for a truck bed the varnish will work fine. your not really doing a finish to the level of what i'm talking about above. as long as each board is completely sealed and there are no breaks in the finish your good to go.
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