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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Wrong they would not fit in a tempo. They are rear wheel only in larger cars like rangers and mustangs.

Fyi were the same age.

I have a turbo civic it makes about 200 hp. But was 100 hp stock like all most every civic sold in the last 15 years. D16y7... Certainly not as fast as my svo was.

Dodge Glhs was a great little car. Faster than a shelby cobra. Look it up.
New civics have a 2.0L. Why not 29lbs of boost.

Bore x stroke, is there any difference in 2.3's

So the shelby cobra ran a 7.2 0-60?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:36 PM
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What a waste of a turbo, 200hp. The 2.0 honda K makes that NA.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:46 PM
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The 87 glhs wt 2675 , 135 ohc 4 , VNT turbo. 0-60 7.2 and standing 15.1/90mph, 175hp .

A cobra its not.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:53 PM
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There is no substitute for cubic inches, this is the "Hot Rodders" web site, right?

Put a V-8 in that C-Cab and uncork the headers... good cost effective horsepower that sounds oh so sweet.

There's a reason Hot Rodders abandoned the banger motors in 1932, and that reason is the V-8.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:10 PM
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The 2.3 fords are different.

Anyways. Sorry about the mess. Good luck with your model A.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:15 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Originally Posted by lakeroadster View Post
There is no substitute for cubic inches, this is the "Hot Rodders" web site, right?

Put a V-8 in that C-Cab and uncork the headers... good cost effective horsepower that sounds oh so sweet.

There's a reason Hot Rodders abandoned the banger motors in 1932, and that reason is the V-8.
There's a substitute- boost pressure.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:27 PM
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There's a substitute- boost pressure.
Sure,... in a Honda Civic, with a fart can...

Boost... how about an over-driven old school GMC 8-71 atop a V-8? Now that's awesome!

Last edited by lakeroadster; 01-11-2013 at 08:37 PM.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:44 PM
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Wow did this get carried away

But don't get me wrong it is fun. I am not going to put a V8 in this car. I have vehicles for going fast. I don't think as light as this car will be that I need or want 300hp. My intention is for it to be a little differnt and be fun to drive. 140 to 150 hp would be plenty for this light car in my opinion and getting to that number with a turbo and slightly built 2.3L would be easy and very forgiving on the quality of fuel ya get at the pump. And after all it's all about power to weight ratio. If you have a 200hp car that weighs 3300 to 3400 lbs and a under 2000 lbs car with 150 hp and everything else being equal at the drag strip they will run pretty close. With the edge going to the lighter car. But this car is NOT about racing. It's about fun and the question I posed was to find someone that had run this engine will a slight build in a true lightweight car. And to get info on building the engine for what I want. And I wish to thank the folks that have contributed to those ends. I am know for doing differnt things. And have considered at one point and time since I have a background in Marine turbine propulsion too. of putting a turbine in the car. But dismissed that idea because of the cost. And it would be too complicated for a fun car. So I'm back to my first question has anyone done this that's on this site that could share their opinions on the results. Thanks Bill
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 06:42 AM
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Years ago a friend of mine built a stout 2.0L Pinto OHC 4banger...Holley 390 CFM..Headers..Fully ported cylinder head...Mallory Unilite distributor...Fully balanced rotating assembly...and an 8LB flywheel...He put this engine into a 1972 Pinto Wagon w/3.55 gears....This car was no slouch...was very quick up through the gears and could hold its own with much larger V8 powered cars of the time like Z28 Camaros, 5.0L mustangs, etc....This was with a smaller displacement engine in a heavier vehicle than what you are planning to use..These little OHCs can be built to scream without any turbos or electronics....We estimated the output of this engine to be around 150-160 HP....and the cam was so radical that the idle speed was at 1200RPMs and very lumpy sounding...It sounded like a dragster!...Don't remember what cam...Its been 25 years or so....but you will like this OHC !!

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:57 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Originally Posted by Ironpony View Post
But don't get me wrong it is fun. I am not going to put a V8 in this car. I have vehicles for going fast. I don't think as light as this car will be that I need or want 300hp. My intention is for it to be a little differnt and be fun to drive. 140 to 150 hp would be plenty for this light car in my opinion and getting to that number with a turbo and slightly built 2.3L would be easy and very forgiving on the quality of fuel ya get at the pump. And after all it's all about power to weight ratio. If you have a 200hp car that weighs 3300 to 3400 lbs and a under 2000 lbs car with 150 hp and everything else being equal at the drag strip they will run pretty close. With the edge going to the lighter car. But this car is NOT about racing. It's about fun and the question I posed was to find someone that had run this engine will a slight build in a true lightweight car. And to get info on building the engine for what I want. And I wish to thank the folks that have contributed to those ends. I am know for doing differnt things. And have considered at one point and time since I have a background in Marine turbine propulsion too. of putting a turbine in the car. But dismissed that idea because of the cost. And it would be too complicated for a fun car. So I'm back to my first question has anyone done this that's on this site that could share their opinions on the results. Thanks Bill
I've done an NA build you can PM me about, I've done a lot of research into going turbo with it but haven't gone that route yet.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironpony View Post
But don't get me wrong it is fun. I am not going to put a V8 in this car. I have vehicles for going fast. I don't think as light as this car will be that I need or want 300hp. My intention is for it to be a little differnt and be fun to drive. 140 to 150 hp would be plenty for this light car in my opinion and getting to that number with a turbo and slightly built 2.3L would be easy and very forgiving on the quality of fuel ya get at the pump. And after all it's all about power to weight ratio. If you have a 200hp car that weighs 3300 to 3400 lbs and a under 2000 lbs car with 150 hp and everything else being equal at the drag strip they will run pretty close. With the edge going to the lighter car. But this car is NOT about racing. It's about fun and the question I posed was to find someone that had run this engine will a slight build in a true lightweight car. And to get info on building the engine for what I want. And I wish to thank the folks that have contributed to those ends. I am know for doing differnt things. And have considered at one point and time since I have a background in Marine turbine propulsion too. of putting a turbine in the car. But dismissed that idea because of the cost. And it would be too complicated for a fun car. So I'm back to my first question has anyone done this that's on this site that could share their opinions on the results. Thanks Bill
Then a completely stock swap is best. I would get a donor car that has the turbo motor running and ready to go. Even in fair condition they dont go for too much cash so get one with a good motor even if it means scrapping a nice car. Merkur svo and the turbo coupe will have the best setups. Intercolled is best but not really important for you power level.

You will need the stock computer it is boost reference and will add fuel and retard timing as boost comes up. Works very well so no need to rebuild the wireing or use megasquirt its just too much to build for a car that does it from the factory with similair performance. Use the factory wiring harness as well. Then simply bolt it up and wire it up. Plug it in. Not easy but not reall difficult either the hard part the efi setup is done and turbo ready every thing else is plumbing and welding.

Be sure the fuel system will support the efi motor.

Keep the motor completely stock for 170 hp And plenty of tq. But very tame and easy to use and easy on the car. Also hook up the low octane fuel switch. Retards ten degrees so it will run on any swell you end up with in the tank. For the most part stock boost will run on. Good 87 and any super. Not like some turbo cars that are real fuel snobs these run on just about anything.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:21 AM
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Stick to your guns Iron pony. Lots of good info here, despite some of the bickering and wizzin matches that tend to go on.
I was hoping you didnt get turned off by all they machismo head banging here. It certainly turned me off.
All the guys here have posted useful info, i just cant understand why they let there attitudes get into the mix.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:49 AM
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Then a completely stock swap is best. I would get a donor car that has the turbo motor running and ready to go. Even in fair condition they dont go for too much cash so get one with a good motor even if it means scrapping a nice car. Merkur svo and the turbo coupe will have the best setups. Intercolled is best but not really important for you power level.

You will need the stock computer it is boost reference and will add fuel and retard timing as boost comes up. Works very well so no need to rebuild the wireing or use megasquirt its just too much to build for a car that does it from the factory with similair performance. Use the factory wiring harness as well. Then simply bolt it up and wire it up. Plug it in. Not easy but not reall difficult either the hard part the efi setup is done and turbo ready every thing else is plumbing and welding.

Be sure the fuel system will support the efi motor.

Keep the motor completely stock for 170 hp And plenty of tq. But very tame and easy to use and easy on the car. Also hook up the low octane fuel switch. Retards ten degrees so it will run on any swell you end up with in the tank. For the most part stock boost will run on. Good 87 and any super. Not like some turbo cars that are real fuel snobs these run on just about anything.

Not that you need it but the car will run much better and will be much easier to tune with an MS1 setup, which are dirt cheap. Not only will you be able to make more power but you can also do mods for better durability and mileage.

Also, something to consider even with an otherwise stock system is a turbo header and a free flowing exhaust, really makes any turbo engine come alive.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 12:39 PM
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Not that you need it but the car will run much better and will be much easier to tune with an MS1 setup, which are dirt cheap. Not only will you be able to make more power but you can also do mods for better durability and mileage.

Also, something to consider even with an otherwise stock system is a turbo header and a free flowing exhaust, really makes any turbo engine come alive.
Stock computer is really good. And its plug and play for more boost. This car also has a vane air meter.

Cast manifold sucks but they dont crack often. This is a shaky motor it will crack tube manifolds pretty often uless you buy a good one. Best to keep it stock since stock it makes more power than the op is looking for.

Ms cost 500 bucks plus junkyard sensors that are not all that cheap on ebay. Stock computer is under 100 and works better than ms and very simple.

If you needed an fmu or other computer to run boost maybe ms is an ok choice but in this case its a total waste of money since it cant provide anything the stock setup does not and will make less power without a dyno tune and lots of late nights on the net digging up bad or old info. Also the stock computer supports most mods because of the way it works. It just runs better with mods. Not an odbII car that is forced lean from the factory.

Fyi scratch the ranger head. Roller followers still good idea but not needed for normal stock style build up. Stock head is not too bad and boost will fix it where it is.

To the OP if you need any parts you cant find like computers or meters i can look in my brothers junk pile if your desperate hes got 3 of everything.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 12:51 PM
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Remember this....less weight plus more horsepower equals fast....simple physics.
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