Using body filler on the underside of the floor pans - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:32 PM
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Using body filler on the underside of the floor pans

I have recently welded new floor pans in to me 67 camaro. Because I am not a great welder, I decided against butt welding the seems and decide weld them with a 1/2 inch lap. This left me with a lip that I would like to hide. I have noticed that a lot of people have used body filler to smooth the bottom of the car and cover imperfections like this. Is using body filler on the underside of a car reserved only for a show car or will it stand up to the elements for a driver? My thoughts were to sandblast the underside of the car, use body filler to cover the seams from the new floor pans, and shoot the underside with some kind of primer. Once primed, I want to paint the underside with POR 15. Last but not least, I want to undercoat it. If someone out there could give me some advice about this and let me know what kind of materials I should use and if I am putting them down in the right order, I would greatly appreciate it. This is my first attempt at restoring a car and have a lot to learn.

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NoClone

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Old 01-11-2006, 12:43 AM
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NoClone, On my 65 Ranchero I replaced some of the floor pans and I also use the lap weld , I welded them every inch , used fusor 800 seam sealer top and bottom and painted with Zero Rust. I might add I used weld through primer on the lap also. You say your going to use por15 if so to me no need to prime . I'll have pic's in my gallery soon.

Take Care
Earl
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Old 01-11-2006, 07:57 AM
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It's a bad idea to fill a lap gap like that with filler since the metal can and will flex and crack the filler. If this is a show car, weld up that seam from below, then you can grind and fill it to your heart's contnet If it's a driver, use a high quality seam sealer to run a bead in that gap and tool it smooth.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:27 AM
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I believe the seam sealer would be the way to go. I would put the POR 15 on first though. You could then put the undercoating on and probably never notice the seam.

Danny
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Old 01-11-2006, 12:57 PM
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NoClone, I am not a big fan of POR 15 but if you are going to use it apply it directly to the metal and not over primer. It should be applied to a sandblasted or slightly rusted surface since it not only does not adhere very well to primer but it will not do anything to prevent future rust unless it is in direct contact with the metal. It has been two years now since I coated the underside of my Mustang with POR and even though I decided I would have been better off to have used epoxy I must admit the POR is holding up well and still looks great, glossy as ever and extremely easy to clean.
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:40 PM
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I would cut off any extra material and than epoxy prime it followed by seam sealer. I use SPI Spray In Bed Liner on the underside of my cars.
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Old 01-11-2006, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
I am not a big fan of POR 15...
...It has been two years now since I coated the underside of my Mustang with POR and even though I decided I would have been better off to have used epoxy I must admit the POR is holding up well and still looks great, glossy as ever and extremely easy to clean.
Oldred, what is the downside of POR-15 in your opinion? Most of the drawbacks that I am aware of have to do with long dry time, and difficuly in storage and handling which are bad for production but normally no problem for the DIY'er
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Old 01-11-2006, 07:38 PM
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Crash, I haven't ever used por15, but have used some cheap rust convertor products that are in most stores in small bottles. I only used it on some underside pieces and inside spots that had some rust that I didn't want to go to extremes trying to get rid of and in case when sandblasting I did miss a rust pit or to. To me epoxy primer didn't seem to adhere to it as well as metal. Maybe its something I did wrong, not letting it sit long enough, or not having enough rust left. After that, if I had some rust I sandblasted, I would apply it, let it sit, then sand most of it off only leaving it in the pits. This seemed to be better, Another just in case is why I applied it. But my mind is more at ease blasting and checking it over, and getting epoxy on it right away and not counting on a product to convert the rust and worry about compatability between it and primer. But everyone has thier own way of doing things. I am sure some people use it a lot, Its been around long enough.
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:45 PM
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My Dad Used Por-15 On The Frame Of His Jeep. Not So Much For The Rust Conversion Properties, But Just Because The Stuff Is So Tough. The Stuff Is Bullet Proof, But It's A Real Pain To Use Also. If There Is Any Left On The Top Of The Can When You Close It, It Is Closed Forever. It's Also The Nastiest Stuff We Ever Sprayed. You Really Need To Spray It Safely, Or Brush It On. The Only Other Problem Is If You Get It Where You Don't Want It. It's Pretty Tough To Remove.
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:23 PM
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Crash, JMO, I know a lot of people swear by POR but, in my case anyway, I just can't see covering up rust I mean it is still there active or not. I think it is far better to remove the rust and be done with it and as far as a rust preventer on corrosion free metal POR works great but then so does epoxy. Por is very difficult to repair and once dry it is hard to paint with good results. I guess I just think epoxy is better all around on rust free metal and since I remove rust instead of covering it epoxy works better for me. One also has to consider that POR will do nothing for rust trapped between overlapping joints, down inside seams and anywhere else it covers but cannot actually make contact with the rust. Again this is just my opinon and I am not trying to knock POR or disagree with anyone.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:34 PM
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Thanks everyone for the input! I have welded up the seam on the underside of the car as well but you can still tell that the floors have been replaced due to the overlap. I tried to grind the welds down and dress them up but it still is not perfect. A good coat of undercoating may cover it but i'm not sure I want to put it on real thick. It may take up to 1/8" at the most to cover it. Are there any other options to cover something like this other than body filler or undercoating that is an acceptable alternative? As for the primer, thanks for the advice, I will not shoot it with primer. I will paint it with POR 15 after it is sandblasted without applying primer first.
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Old 01-11-2006, 11:24 PM
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I think flexible urethane seam sealer would be best to seal pits in the welds and to smooth out some minor irregularities, especially if the car is a driver and won't be finished with something glossy. The last floor pan job I did on an old car, that's what I did, though the seam was plug welds and not continuous welded. The seam sealer was smoothed with a gloved finger and some reducer.

P.S. oldred, thanks for sharing your opinion, I was just curious.
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