WE WERE WONDERING IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS TRIED
TO PLACE 1937 FORD PICKUP BODY ON A LATE 80'S
S-10 PICKUP FRAME OR BLAZER FRAME. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ THE 37 AND 80'S FRAMES ARE BOTH 112 INCHES
A friend has done this , only he used a toyota or nisan frame. said he was amazed at how close all the mounting brackes were little or no mods at all. for body. will check with him for sure and get back.
Digger dont worry about how long it is (wheel base)wheelbasses are easy to fix. measure the track width and look at the steering box.Most frame swaps dont work out to well.In the end you will be better off using your stock frame.Do some real carefull frame messurements first.Everybody is on the s-10 bandwagon of late yet i have only seen a very few that looked ok. Good Luck
I would agree with phat.Get alot of good measurements.I`ve been checking into this myself.I have a 37 pontiac coupe, and I was also told that a s-10 frame would fit up under mine with little or no modifactions.
Got a hotrod buddy who used a late 80's Caprice under a '40 Chevy...at least he used the front end and rear end parts, had to use his '40 frame in the center section. Was an extreme amount of work, but after a couple of years of building, he has one of the very nicest, best riding and handleing '40 Caprices on the planet. He used basically everything from the donor car, bought an aftermarket AC and radiator, everything else came from the Caprice. The width of the front end and rear end limits the offset of wheels and he chooses not to sacrifice ride for looks by making the car sit low like most streetrods. All in all, he probably has the best engineered, most dependable, and best riding car in town. All done in his home shop, right down to the upholstery. It may be more work than you want to do or are capable of tackling, but it can be done.PACO
Yes the car Im Building is on a 80's s-10 chassis sort of, Tremendous amounts of work have been put into my chassis to make it work , and alot of fiberglass work also ans still many things to work out. but to just think you can plop this body on a truck chassis. WRONG. I do have some pictures and can go into a bit of detail if needed, but believe me you need alot of imagination. I chose this chassis because i wanted a good riding car all around and i also put a small block chevy with a 8-71 blower on it.
Yes the car Im Building is on a 80's s-10 chassis sort of, Tremendous amounts of work have been put into my chassis to make it work , and alot of fiberglass work also ans still many things to work out. but to just think you can plop this body on a truck chassis. WRONG. I do have some pictures and can go into a bit of detail if needed, but believe me you need alot of imagination. I chose this chassis because i wanted a good riding car all around and i also put a small block chevy with a 8-71 blower on it.
This would be great info for the original poster, but he hasn't been on here in almost 7 years. However, it is still knowledge the rest of us can learn from... :thumbup:
It's been longer than 7 years. I have never been on this sight Yep I'm new and
In regards to the 37 ford talk going back and forth. My car is a 37 ford roadster
with the removable hard top. Which I have not installed yet because i have not found out what type of latches or latch to use in the front at the windshield.
if anyone knows this car will know you just can use anything. any help with this issue will be most appreciated.
It's been longer than 7 years. I have never been on this sight Yep I'm new and
In regards to the 37 ford talk going back and forth. My car is a 37 ford roadster
with the removable hard top. Which I have not installed yet because i have not found out what type of latches or latch to use in the front at the windshield.
if anyone knows this car will know you just can use anything. any help with this issue will be most appreciated.
Since you're new, we'll cut you a little slack (everybody's new here at least once, and we all are just here to help one another anyway... :thumbup: ). As far as the latch goes, I can't help much at all, I've never even seen a '37 Ford like you describe, but I'd be willing to bet someone else here has. Anyways, Welcome to Hotrodders.com, foxrods. :welcome:
Thanks so much for cutting me a break, The way things have been going lately I could use it. I was going through your photo album, and wondering in which state you live, I'm out of Tennessee and from the snow in some of your pic's I'm sure your not. and still hoping someone out there can help me with my latch issue this car is a copy of the wild ride roadster that can be viewed at www.wildride.com
Sorry for the wrong address Try www.ozerodshop.net/body.html The first car is mine , the other site was www.37ford.com which is the wild rod site. I knew you were someplace cold, My Birthplace is Manistique, Mich. A uper I Know cold as you do. no place for a hotrodder. YA need the trees and beautiful Mountains to cruise in. Lots of cruise nights here almost one for any night you want to go,
WE WERE WONDERING IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS TRIED
TO PLACE 1937 FORD PICKUP BODY ON A LATE 80'S
S-10 PICKUP FRAME OR BLAZER FRAME. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ THE 37 AND 80'S FRAMES ARE BOTH 112 INCHES
yes i to was wondering..i have a 37 pickup with all chevy under it 327built with a 400 tranny and a camaro rear end i to want to up grade steering and brakes the steerring box on mine keep tearing away from the frame and its hard to steer does anyone know the best frame to use?????
I predict that in thirty or forty years the frame swapping craz of the "00s" (as in 2000-2009) will be the liquer bar in the trunk of the sixties to us. Or maybe the hardtop racing of the forties where thousands of vintage Fords were destroyed.
There is no reason what so ever to swap the whole frame and the work involved isn't saving one single minute over updating the original frame with modern components.
Being this particular car is a fiberglass non original car, a full frame from a later model car kinda makes sense.
Fox, don't know if they will work for your, but take a look at the latches on the 55-57 T-Bird hard tops or about any latch mechanisms for any convertible.
This has been bashed around here many times - if you don't have a frame, or don't want to buy an aftermarket OEM style like a TCI or other mfr, make one out of 2x3x.125(or thereabouts) rectangular tubing. These S10 frames are clunks under something like a '37 Ford, especially something like an Oze plus everything has to either be rebuilt or bastardized to fit, including the entire drive line. The spring rates are wrong, the wheel tread is too wide, the rear end...........and it goes on and on often to disaster(go to a big swap meet sometime to see them) - especially if you are a newbie
This has been bashed around here many times - if you don't have a frame, or don't want to buy an aftermarket OEM style like a TCI or other mfr, make one out of 2x3x.125(or thereabouts) rectangular tubing. These S10 frames are clunks under something like a '37 Ford, especially something like an Oze plus everything has to either be rebuilt or bastardized to fit, including the entire drive line. The spring rates are wrong, the wheel tread is too wide, the rear end...........and it goes on and on often to disaster(go to a big swap meet sometime to see them) - especially if you are a newbie
I do agree with Dave here...I haven't seen anything with a S-10 frame under it that looked good.. It's way to easy to just build a new frame, Then your done..
If your looking for a great riding car with an old look, sub framing is the only way to go since it already has disc's and all the mounting brackets already there, its much much quicker that means cheaper since those old cars and trucks were only designed for low powerd 4 & 6 cyl that feel like there falling apart at 50mph it doesnt make sence to put a v-8 in it with out up grading the brakes and suspension ...I put 95 impalia 12" rotors and the big calipers on my sub frame,Thats the only thing I changed... when I save up some money I'll be putting tubular A frames,I also put on a power rack and got rid of that heavy box and linkage ,very ez and WOW... what a differance what a pleasure to drive. Its nothing newWeve been doing it since the subframe came out
Good point IC there are times and frames like a 32 when its exposed that keeping intact, is the only way. either way you should try your best to make it look like the factory made it. If they could have back then,but on the other hand there are those that might shoot you on site for not running a straight axel no matter how beautiful it looks or handles(H,A.M.B.)comes to mind
Good point IC there are times and frames like a 32 when its exposed that keeping intact, is the only way. either way you should try your best to make it look like the factory made it. If they could have back then,but on the other hand there are those that might shoot you on site for not running a straight axel no matter how beautiful it looks or handles(H,A.M.B.)comes to mind
i used an s10 frame on my 63 nova wagon.shortened it 11 in. it still needs mods. i mite junk it and build one.the s10 frame is ok but i do think a home made one would be easier in the long ron.
LOL,obviously,So youve been There? Thats where I learnd the phrase "traditioal hotrod" kind of a contradiction in terms since a hotrod is a car built with updated parts and what the owner wants in a car(a reflection of the owner)"old style hotrods is more like it"which I also like.Really I like em all.... :thumbup: :thumbup:
I bought a 92 S-10 and was going to do the same thing - I have a 37 panel.. However, the wheel base is rouhgly 5-6 inches shorter than the S-10 and the chassis front end on the S-10 interferes with the 37 body parts. What I ended up doing was stripping the motor, transmission, wiring, fuel tank and other misc... items and used them.
The fuel tank turned sideways in the rear of 37 frame and made brackets. Wiring extended 2-3 feet in the rear to wire light.
Shortened steering column.
Used power brake booster... etc...
Saved me money
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