There have been a number of threads hear about filling pin holes and trim holes. I had pin holes left after welding and wanted to use it to fill these holes, so I ordered a $50.00 sample kit.

I was somewhat surprised when I received it by how litlle there seemed to be in the kit. 5 rods approx 18" long x 1/8 dia. and some flux. I actually had trouble getting it to stick to the steel body. I watched their video a few times and could not see that I was doing anything different. I tried to lay a band covering the pin holes but afterwards some areas could be peeled off. The next day I re-did the soldering simply putting some on each pin hole and left it at that.

I've used lead once or twice in the past with greater success. I found this article on line about leading holes:

Car Craft leading link

I found this helpfull. Possibly the big difference is the tinning. You tin the sheet metal first to give the lead something to stick to. Although Muggyweld does not call for it possibly it would benefit by tinning.

Slickriffs,

I use (and like) Muggy Weld but I don't know why you would want to use it on steel, Why not just weld up the pin holes or like you said, lead them up. IMHO Muggy Weld is way too expensive to use on steel. I have used it to repair/alter items such as this tail light stand where I wanted to both add mat'l and alter it (pointed out and down on my fender) and add a mild steel plate on the back. I have never had a problem with it adhering to the base metal. If you got the flux up to the 'root beer' color they describe, the only other problem I can think of is the base metal was not clean enough.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bikeo...3c9.jpg&.src=ph

36

Experience is a wonderfull thing. I tried the Muggyweld because I was concerned about burning thru when welding pinholes. I just got a lead kit and some tinning compound. Possibly that's what I should have done first off..

Nice pics,,Thanks,

Keith